The lighter driveshaft also yields a higher driveline critical vehicle speed... basically harmful vibrations/wobbling occurs at higher vehicle speeds with lighter drivershafts like the aluminum metal matrix composite shafts. The 2006 Police Interceptors with 3.55s are limited to 120 mph whereas the 2006 Police Interceptors w/ 3.27s are limited to 130 mph. The 99-00 Police Interceptors w/ 3.55s were limited to 130 mph because they had the AMMX driveshaft and Ford cheaped out for 01-up and using just regular aluminum.

I'm not sure about the S-197 GTs, but if you step up to 4.10s or numerically higher gears, it might be a good idea to consider an aluminum/composite driveshaft just as extra insurance.

 

What about the drivetrain "clunk" that we get because of the slop- is that noticeably reduced with the one-piece?

 

Talked to the maker of the Legend Mustang today and he has a steel driveshaft they have made that is 24 lbs for $500. He said included is a penion yoke to replace the stock one and that they had no vibration after installing it.

Can someone explain a pinion yoke and why it might help prevent vibration?

 

Edited because I was still half-asleep... sorry for any confusion.

 

I think the pinion yoke is the yoke on the pinion (differential housing). It is necessary to change this piece when using a ranger driveshaft conversion, or similar driveshaft. PH aluminum DS does not replace the pinion flange- instead, it uses an adapter plate, so no need to replace pinoin crush washer, either. Correct? Much more labor involved if you are going to remove the pinion flange- need new crush washer and proper re-torque, no?

So, does it reduce the clunk?

 

Oops - darn it - that's why you shouldn't post a reply before the third cup of coffee. Sorry for the confusion, I'll edit the prior post...

You are correct, pinion is on the axle end, not the slip yoke I am thinking of on the transmission end of things.

 

Nice.

 

http://www.lmperformance.com/5996/73.html

As you can see, rust is starting to set in on the stock driveshaft. I don't mind the 2 piece setup that much as it should reduce the vibration/wobbling at high vehicle speeds whereas a single piece shaft will have to handle the driveline angle all by itself. I just wish Ford used an aluminum material for the stock driveshaft. Ford always skimps out on the small details.

 

I heard someone mention a Ranger driveshaft conversion. Does anyone know about that?

 

what are NASCAR driveshafts made from steel or aluminum?

 

It wouldn't be as fun though to find these little gems of upgrades if everything had already been tweaked from ford.

As for the Ranger DS conversion - it's all over the place, basically an 03/04 Ranger DS is shortened by 9" and rebalanced. This requires replacing the stock pinion flange w/ a cobra flange (to mate up to the Ranger DS). Most folks say that replacing the flange is not that big a deal as long as you don't over torqe the nut when putting the new one on.

As for Nascar, not sure what they use, but Brian Vickers had one detatch at 175mph and come through the floor of the car. So it's apparent that even those don't hold up

 

blackened is 100% correct. i did the first one and it's still in my car now. no vibrations or extra noise. i'm not saying it can't happen but so far about a dozen people or more have done my conversion(so many in fact that we can't get anymore ranger shafts from ford :P) with no adverse effects. it's stronger than stock and weighs 16.5 lbs when done. it's made from 6061T6 aircraft aluminum and has the 1350 series u-joints. the slip joint is already made in to the shaft for rear axle arc movement. they are cheap around $230 the cobra flange is $40 and my place charges $80-90 to shorten. it's usually about $150-200 cheaper than even the CM or steel shafts offered.
PN as follows driveshaft 03-up ranger extra cab 126" WB M4602R from FRPP or 3L5Z4602LA268 from a ford dealer. this shaft is a replacement design due to problems with the original units. this is why i advise using a new shaft and not a junkyard piece cause you never now the design or quality of what you are starting with.
the companion flange (pinion yoke) is from a 03-04 cobra. it's billet steel mad for the 1350 series u-joint cradle and mates up to the shaft perfectly. the companion flange on the trans does not have to be changed with this conversion. as far as the installation of the comp. flange do whatever makes you comfortable. if you want to replace the crush sleeve and go through all that work or if you do like i did and just R&R the flanges and carefully torque the pinion nut as not to crush the sleeve anymore.
okay lastly the new bolts required(the stock bolts are too small) N8005945100 from ford (4).
i have many posts about this when i first did it. do a quick search and you will find them.

 

Thanks Spyder!

I bought an Al. driveshaft off of a ModularFords member. When removing the OEM companion flange I should first measure the torque on the pinion nut and record that. Then I remove the OEM pinion flange and install the cobra flange and torque it to that recorded torque "setting"? Did a lot of diff fluid leak out during the install? I probably should get an extra quart, correct? Any tips would be appreciated.

 

it's been a while since i did mine but i don't remember any fluid draining during the install. i've setup lots of differentials so i torqued mine by feel to get the drag on the bearing correct. just stick with the ford specs(whatever they are) and it will be fine. some prople say you have to replace the crush sleeve but i thinnk thats overkill. good luck! did you buy it from me? i sold two last month.

 

No I bought it from Bry9 on modularfords. It's a FRPP ranger driveshaft using the setup that you pioneered. I am not sure what the Ford specs are either, but I can just use a torque wrench to figure it out. I am not going to replace the crush sleeve. I figure if I place the jack stands up front on the car, fluid won't drain out of the hole while the companion flange is being swapped.

 

that's cool. good luck with the install!