BillP

Sorry, I meant to add: He should look at adjusting the rollout. In your case, you need to REDUCE the rollout in the GTech. You are probably staging very deep at the track (as many experienced racer do). That puts your track numbers at an ET and speed disadvantage (but it's a real advantage to winning a head-to-head race). Shallow staging will result in a better ET and speed, but you'll be at a disadvantage in a head-to-head race.

By dialing in the rollout on the GTech, you'll tune it to give numbers within .1 sec of the real deal. Assuming you stage consistently!

2005MustangGT

the time i tested it at the track i was deep staged launching at 6,000 rpm on slicks
the movement may have had something to do w/ it also i guess.

2005MustangGT

to dozer: "I think if you use one measuring method solely to determine your gains with mods, it would be ok. Now I don't know, because I haven't tried, but I would like to see what one dyno jet says compared to a handful of others with the exact same vehicle. Would they ALL say the IDENTICALLY same thing? "
*************
i agree w/ you on that, but c'mon 5 tenths is like a dyno being off 50 hp?
then again, I didn't realize you had to tune the g-tech to what you wanted it to read either????

BillP

2005MustangGT-

As a drag racer, you already understand how rollout affects your ET and speed.

GTech has summarized it here, http://www.gtechprosupport.com/support/tec...ech-Rollout.pdf
and then when you think about how the GTech has a static, programmable rollout setting, but YOU as a driver can vary your real track rollout from pass to pass, then the light bulb goes off.

By the way, 12" of rollout on a stock 2005 Mustang, with a mild launch, equates to maybe .5 seconds ET!

The high end GTech has adjustable rollout, the lower one does not. My GTimer GT2 has adjustable rollout.

Another thing to consider is that the GTech and GTimer don't even start their timer until you've reached a set G force. on my GTimer, that is by default 0.1G, but it is adjustable. This is to avoid minor movements, caused by brake loading the transmission or a lopy cam, from triggering the device. You can move the trigger to be more sensitive, and that will make the device more track-accurate.

You are very correct that you should assume that if you run a 13.6 with a GTech or GTimer that you will run 13.6 at the track. What it is very good for is validating the change when removing your HC trap, adding underdrive pullies, putting on better tires, etc. It will accurately measure those differences run over run.

-FROG-

Glad to see you guys are getting some #'s too. So my origional G-Tech times aren't totally off by too much. My 0 - 60 times seemed to be more accurate to you guys than the 1/4 mile times. I was getting 5.0, 5.1, 4.9 sec 0-60's too. My 1/4 times averaged 13.50-13.70.

05stangkc

Well I guess a guy could go to the strip and after a few runs get the Gtech dialed in to be just about dead on. After that more runs at the strip would not be needed.

KC

2005MustangGT

that's what i'm saying...just b/c your gtech tells you that you can run 13.0 and you run against a car that the track says runs 13.0...you probably don't realize how bad you're going to get beat by..........unless you have set it / calibrated it to your local dragstrip.

BillP

And the GTimer doesn't tell you your reaction time.

Two cars run a 13.4, it's the guy with the reaction time that wins!

This is a GREAT tool for learning how best to launch your car, and to fine tune your shift points. It will also help you determine the results of mods before heading to the track.

That way you maximize the value of your track time!

jeffn

And HOW many miles do you have on the GT now?

05stangkc

Anybody Else Get a Timer?

BillP

My apologies for the late answer. In January I progbably had 2800 miles on it.

My Blue Heaven

I have use of one. Have quite a few runs of the 4.10 gear and the 3.11.

Sometimes it's dead on, others it way low. If only I was running as fast as the G-Tech thinks I am!

acadian

I am selling my G-Timer here for $50 and it is like-new. Not 100% accurate with HP readings, but dead-on for time readings, like 0-60 and quarter mile.