So I was all ready to buy a C&L and noticed a current post about temperatures and the C&L getting hot.

DOH!

So my question is basically should I get this or no?

Just want to get the best one.

Thanks for any help.

 

The way I look at it, everything under the hood is going to be the same temp, so no matter what the material, the temp will be the same. However, aluminum has a high heat transference, so more heat will go to the incoming air.

People are getting good numbers with it so

 

Yeah... that's what I'm afraid of... I mean I want more performance, but really I would rather have what was best for the engine even if that means sacraficing performance a little.

Would the hotter air be worse for the engine?

 

My C&L is working great, even in Las Vegas heat... I have seen other brand's at the track and they don't perform as well as the C&L.

 

The air does not sit in the intake long enough for the temperature to affect performance. Not to mention when it comes to intakes, performance numbers seem to be six of one, half a dozen of another AKA pretty similar.

 

Current Mods: "The Evil G.T. 500"
LFP Billet 62 mm TB, C&L Performance Intake, Diablo Predator Tuner, JBA Long Tube Headers, JBA Off-Road H-Pipe, Magnapack Mufflers, Zex Nitrous System w/Purge & Maximizer, Steeda Race Motor Mount's, BMR LCA's, Motive 3.90 Gears, RK Sport "California Dream'n" Hood, Moroso Hood Pins, Hurst "Classic" Shifter, Steeda Pedal's, CDC Ducktail, 3-D Carbon Louver's, "68" Shelby Badge's, Black-Out Headlight, Foglight, Tail light and Turn Signal Tint, Limo Tinted Window's, Black Deep Dish Bullit's 18"x9", BF Goodrich G-Force KDW NT 255/45 front 285/40 rear
Future Mods:
BBR P&P Heads, Street/Strip Cam's, CDC Clasic Chin Spoiler, SSE Center Fog Grill, BMR Panhard Bar/Strut Tower Brace, CDC Gauge Pod, Autometer "Nexus" Gauges
Best Dyno Pull (Dyno-Jet):N/A
312.8 RWHP / 331.7 RWTQ (SAE Corrected) 3/15/05 Revised C&L Tune 2.5% ADV/Timing, Running 80% 91 Octane & 20% 100 octane fuel
Best Dyno Pull w/Nitrous:
coming soon...
Best Quarter Mile Run:13.21 @ 107 mph, Las Vegas Motor Speedway
Oh really.Your Quartermile runs dont seem to reflect the hardware your running :scratch:

 

I have not been to the track or the dyno since the throttle body or Nitrous. I also haven't been able to get my 60 foot time's under 2.2 with the new rubber. Thank's for being an abnoxious donkey hole though...

 

Mike, please realize that Vegasjay's car has one of the most important ET assistive devices missing that you and I as well as many others are using (ET streets or another form of bias ply slick). I am quite confident that his car will run the numbers if he wanted to put some on it, besides, as far as I can tell from his interest and questions early in the year he is a novice driver.

 

I live in Yuma AZ. Same heat as Vegasjay. No problems with the C&L . I had a K&N before the C&L and it got dam hot as well.

 

Thanks for all the replies everyone

 

Hey Justin, it's donkey doughnut

Let's see him pull 12's in 120 degree heat.... ain't happenin.

 

There was a post here in the past were someone datalogged the inlet temps (and THAT is the number that matters!). Basically, if they let the car sit for 20 minutes after running it, the inlet temps would be around 40 degrees above ambiant. But only for a mile or so. Then it was back down a degree or so above ambiant at most. Sitting at idle at a stop light, he would see the temps climb a couple of degrees and then almost instantly drop down again once he started to move. So the short answer is that it doesn't impact performance at all. And it looks GOOOOOODDDDDDDD!!!

 

I'm running a C&L set-up with TBS; It's running fine. It doesn't get any hotter than everything else under the hood. I have to agree with "Pitt" - no time for the air to sit there and get hot, plus the TBS from JET gives it one last "SWIRL" prior to entering the heads.

Tom

PS - Because I have only had a C&L mounted on it, I'm not going to bad mouth it. I've never run anything else, so my opinion is biased.

 

I here ya,Was just ratling his cage.I just couldnt believe the mod list.Why would you spend so much money and not install the most important link.I was getting 1.8,s 60fts on my stock radials just buy removing the swaybar.Sorry if I offended anyone from LasVegas

 

Hey guys,

just got my C & L/Predator combo. GOt the tunes ready to go, but there were no instructions on the CAI install. I did a search on here no luck. Can anyone help?

thanks!

 

Not the best scan's in the world but here you go :

 

i tested the temp tonight (i was the one who asked the question in the other thread) and when riding it msut be cold cause i drove for about 30 minutes and jumpued out of the car and popped the hood and the cai was cold. i let the car sit at idle for 10 minutes and checked again it was hot. i revved the engine a few tiems and checked and it was cold again.

 

thanks! This should do the trick!

 

It's all good... I was having a bad day... :bang: As far as the rubber goes I still street race more than I race at the track. I hook up great on the street with the BFG KDW's. I will be getting a set of drag radial's for the track though. The Las Vegas Motorspeedway must be a tough track though because out of the 8 other 05's I've ran (or see run) they have been lucky to bust into the 14.5's... Some of them are almost as heavily modified as me too?? Perhap's after I mount up some slick's I will rattle your cage a bit...