One of our NASA instructors/TT guys fried a set on his 350Z w/ Brembo's:

http://www.nasarockymountain.com/nas...ead.php?t=3953




May be just a fluke?

 

I ran DTC-60's last year and many of my friends run DTC-60's in ST2 and ST1 and we have never seen a pad to that without a stuck caliper which caused a massive overheat.

350Z and 370Z have known issues with brakes getting to out of control temp's they are BAD track day cars when operating at full weight and front air flow.
One nearly killed a Car and Driver writer.

http://www.caranddriver.sg/features/...ng_lap-feature


EBC pads are garbage they nearly killed myself and a friend of mine with no warning when the friction material seperatated from the backing plate (pads were new, first day out on them).
Then on my street car the backing plates were stamped crappy (due to worn out stamping dies) and they bound up in the caliper. I had to use a die grinder to make my brand new pads fit. Junk.

Carbotech's are OK. They wear silly fast. wasting money IMO

Hawks are GREAT (a little hard on rotors) DTC70's are great if you have enough suspension to handle a pad that serious.

I run Performance Friction's PFC-01's which is the same pad we run in our Grand-Am cars. Best pad your can buy for your car.
You should NOT run these pads on stock suspension.

 

PFC01s are good but let me say it like this--performance friction is "very proud" of their stuff, and their prices reflect it.

Never seen an issue w/ DTC60s in over a year of competition use.

I use DTC70s on my HPDE car and they stop great, but the initial bite is so aggressive that it really wreaks havoc with the ABS. I'll be going to DTC60s for my next HPDE set.

If you've got the FR500S HCU and ABS block, use DTC70s for sure. Stock ABS/HCU, DTC60s.

 

I agree that the price of PFC's is not really on par with the others.
I am very lucky and get to have the take offs from our Grand-Am cars that dont have enough pad for a full weekend and I just use those
High price or not they are a great pad though.

 

Great info, thanks guys! Will likely switch to Hawks soon, then.

On our Rocky Mountain NASA forum they're all still debating the cause of the pad destruction, though most agree it was an overheat issue. The same guy, same car (350Z Brembo), showed a picture a while back of his calipers, painted copper orange (like the rest of the car), which had discolored to a yellowish hue, everyone was saying 'temps too high'. Maybe he needs some brake ducting??

Speaking of, I picked up a set of brake duct rotor adapters, haven't installed them yet:

http://store.kennybrown.com/product/braking/brake-ducts



Any thoughts?

 

Those are fine, and needed for longer brake life.

Here is my setup:


https://themustangsource.com/f726/fa...fascia-485437/

 

I have the Quantum Motorsports kit, it works. You'll have to experiment with the amount of "open" duct you run, that is--find out if the incoming air drops the pad below its operating temperature range.
If you're trying to run a street pad like Hawk HP+ or EBC Yellow, you can probably get away with running the ducts fully open all the time.

With the DTCs, I notice that the increased cooling can affect the initial bite of the pads. More cooling = less initial bite (pads have dropped below operating temp range), but it ramps quickly if you stay on the pedal (heat going back into the pads). You'll have to tune it and see what you like. I usually run with gaffer tape over 1/2 of the inlet.

Stinger those inlets are lookin good...nice to have a manufacturing hookup. I don't think I will make it to MMP for NASA after all; my fellow racer/driving buddy is having budget issues so I don't think we'll make the 12 hour drive to spectate

Keep your eye out for Mustang racer Ron Ballard in ST2, and BMW driver Chad Nelson in GTS1? Those are our local favorites and **** good racers!

 

Awesome stuff!!

If your looking, I have DTC-70 and HT-10 pads for sale!!!

 

As far as on-track pads go, I've progressively moved thru the lineup with Hawk. I started with using their HPS pad, and was not happy with how they worked on-track. They are great as a street pad though (still using these today on the street). I moved up to the HP+ pads for quite a few years and for the most part I was real satisfied with their performance. I usually did my pad swap at home before leaving for the track, ran the whole day, and swapped back at home. Running on R compounds, I was finding the limit for these pads though. This season (based on Stinger's recommnedation) I switched to using the DTC-60 in the front, and HP+ in the rear, and I have to say that is the best brake setup I have ever had! They worked flawlessly at Mid-Ohio slowing the car from 130+ at the end of the straight every time, consistently. I never encountered a time where they faded and was able to go much deeper into the corners than I ever had the ***** to do with the HP+ pads. Because of my success, a lot of friends I run with have also switched to the DTC's. We just now have to swap pads at the track, and not at home.

 

Thanks for the input, and quite interesting. How's the dust with the HPS streets? I'm thinking of switching to them at some point in the future.

I've heard of some people using the drive home with the high-friction race pads to clean the rotors for bed-in with the street pads after they switch out. Not recommended with the DTC's? I bought some Hawk Blue just for this (pricey, too), and to remove some pad deposits, which they did quite well.
How do you go about bedding in the DTCs before heading for the track? I'm not sure if there's a place on the street I can reliably do the 80-0 or 100-0 series that they would require. Just do that on the track itself?

 

Bed DTCs at the track. See if you can get out for 1-2 laps in the novice group at the back of their pack--talk to your grid director. Come in and let the brakes cool until your run group is up.

I was lazy and didn't pull the DTC70s from my car for about 2 days after the track, they stopped fine on the street as long as you give yourself a little extra room and caution. The hurt there is they are like a brake lathe when under their operating temps, so your rotors will get chewed up a little.

HPS pads dust, but the color of the dust is much lighter than other pads, so you don't really notice it much. Don't waste your time or money with these at the track. Great pad for the street, however.