Long post, sorry.

Background:
2010 GT P White, bought last May. The car sat on the dealer lot for a year. The car had some staining from rain and tree "droppings". After THEIR detail, it wasn't too bad. Spider webbing ranged from "one" in an area to "complete" in others. all in all, the majority of the car is mostly spider web free. Last year used Mothers clay bar to smooth the surface and used Meguiars NXT for a wax.

I decided to give Mothers products a try this summer. I picked up the 3 step system: Cleaner, glaze, paste wax along with their recommended MF towels and applicators. I've used their clay bar and Showtime before (last summer), so no need to spend for that. stated with a 14"x14" on the hood, driver side corner, by "A" post.

I believe I followed the instructions for their process to a "t".

1. Washed the car with Turtle Wax car cleaner and dried.

2. Clay bar with generous amounts of Showtime removing small "specs" leaving a super clean white. Buffed dry with MF towel.

3. Applied per wax cleaner to a MF polishing cloth and rubbed in by hand, going over the area at least 3 times. Waited to dry to a haze and buffed off by hand with MF towel.

4. Applied Glaze to MF polishing cloth and rubbed in by hand, going over the area at least 3 times. Waited to dry to a haze and buffed off by hand with MF towel.

5. Applied the wax to a damp applicator, rubbed on by hand going over the area at least twice. Waited until it dried to a haze and buffed off with a MF towel.

I pulled the car into the sun to check and see what Mothers did for me. I was left with incredible amounts of spider webbing. I was very disappointed.
At that point I moved to another spot on the hood, just below the area I worked. As I did each step, I pulled the car back into the Sun. Comparing what I originally had on the car to the 3 step process.

1. After clay bar, I was left "some" spider webbing.

2. After Pre wax cleaner, I was left with incredible amounts of spider webbing.

3. After the glaze, it didn't help filling in the spider webbing.

4. Applied the wax, and as expected, nothing changed.

I believe I followed the instructions to the letter. Honestly, the only variable is the fact I've used the clay bar previously. In that case, I "rubbed" the bar until things felt smooth, never going as far to remove a "speck" from the paint.

Any opinions on what I may have done wrong, if at all, in the process? (Please, no opinions about using the wrong product all together! ) Not enough buffing? Too much buffing? Shouldn't have used this system on a new car? Any ideas?

FWIW, I'm pleased with the result of the wax at his point. Deep shine and seems "heavier" than other products I've tried (which aren't many). Time will tell this summer.

 

Can you post a pic of this?

TDS

 

I'll try. Not sure of my photography skills though. When/if the Sun comes out here I'll post what I get.

 

Sun showed it face today.

Pic 920 is where I did the "3 Step".
Pic 918 is good representation of the rest of the car.
Maybe I'm being to particular.

Let me know what you think.

 

Any info is welcome.

But in the mean time, I'd thought I'd share these also! I'm very impressed with the Mothers wax

 

Looks like the acid damage done by 'bird poop'. I had 'bird poop' on the hood of my Mustang for less than 1/2 hour.......I had to use 'cleaner wax, three times before it was removed.

Also could be clear coat damage done by 'hail' but i would think its more like damage done by 'bird poop'.

Hope this helps you out some

 

^ agree

Ive had bird poo ruin any wax job ive done because it sat on there all day during school. During the south texas summer. I walk out to my car and a big splotch was on my hood and roof and the acid ate right through the paint and clearcoat

 

Actually, it came out that way (pic 920) after doing the 3 step process. It originallly looked like pic 918.

 

Great looking ride! Don't see a lot in white lookin' that clean.

First thing you need to take into account is the products you used and their intended purpose and how that will work on a white car.

Black cars show everything, so slightly improving the finish will give you a nice result. White is much tougher, so any improvement will be hard to see.
The products you used are meant for cleaning, decontaminating, masking, and protection. Cleaner wax has chemicals that chemically clean your paint while laying down slight protection to the surface. Staining and dis-colorization will lighten up slightly giving a more crisp look. At the same time, you also clayed your car to rid the finish of contamination from brake dust, industrial fall-out, and other elements, which should help greatly. Glazes are products the help to hide defects (like swirls) or add oils to the finish for a more wet look. Helping to hide swirls does not mean hide them completely.
At no time did you use a product that would be abrasive enough to re-level the clear-coat of your vehicle, which is what polishing does, and is the solution to ridding your finish of imperfections like swirls (AKA spider-webbing), etching marks, and light random scratches (often referred to in the professional detailing community as Random Isolated Deep Scratches: RIDS).

Polishing by hand CAN be done, but is not generally advised because of the time it takes and the inconsistent results you're likely to achieve (pressure, speed, angle all play a factor). The most popular solution is using a Dual Action polisher such as a Porter Cable 7424XP and an assortment of polishes+pads to get the desired results.


Everything you did worked for its intended purpose. If you really want to tackle swirls, that's a whole other level of work that would need to be done.

 

Exactly what MarcHarris said. You really didn't use a product to remove swirl marks/spider webs. Only products to try to hide them. I'm not a fan of Mothers products (used them years ago) and I do find that best results are achieved with a Dual Action polisher.