Just Ordered Porter Cable orbital detailer
2/22/14, 05:05 PM
#21
A Man Just Needs Some....
Yep. There are lots of how to videos on YouTube that walk you through the process. My kit came with three different grade pads, two grade compounds, and a fine polish. First wash should be done with a dish washing soap to strip any wax built up on the paint surface. Clay it and rewash. Then you should be good to start your paint correction. Just take your time and don't rush it. Even though towards the end you will be sick and tired of doing it.
2/22/14, 06:54 PM
#22
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The grayish film is from the surface contamination and swirls. Swirls cause light to be refracted rather than reflected. You should use paint cleaning clay with qucik detailer or soapy water as a lubricant, then polish and wax. Work a small section at a time using even pressure, wiping down the residue. Do yourself a favor and get some 3M painters tape and tape off any mouldings and anywhere you do not want to get polish or wax/sealant on. 15 to 20 minutes of tapinf saves hours of trying to get wax out of mouldings, crevices, etc.
2/22/14, 06:55 PM
#23
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Yep. There are lots of how to videos on YouTube that walk you through the process. My kit came with three different grade pads, two grade compounds, and a fine polish. First wash should be done with a dish washing soap to strip any wax built up on the paint surface. Clay it and rewash. Then you should be good to start your paint correction. Just take your time and don't rush it. Even though towards the end you will be sick and tired of doing it.
2/22/14, 07:26 PM
#24
Shelby GT500 Member
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The grayish film is from the surface contamination and swirls. Swirls cause light to be refracted rather than reflected. You should use paint cleaning clay with qucik detailer or soapy water as a lubricant, then polish and wax. Work a small section at a time using even pressure, wiping down the residue.
Do yourself a favor and get some 3M painters tape and tape off any mouldings and anywhere you do not want to get polish or wax/sealant on. 15 to 20 minutes of tapinf saves hours of trying to get wax out of mouldings, crevices, etc.
So according to the description of this Compound cleaner stuff doesn't that remove the swirl marks and grayish film? Isn't the compound cleaner the pre polish and wax? Just wondering? What is the difference between the compound stuff and a clay bar?
2/22/14, 09:42 PM
#25
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Thanks for the heads up about the painters tape tip.. So according to the description of this Compound cleaner stuff doesn't that remove the swirl marks and grayish film? Isn't the compound cleaner the pre polish and wax? Just wondering? What is the difference between the compound stuff and a clay bar?
So according to the description of this Compound cleaner stuff doesn't that remove the swirl marks and grayish film? Isn't the compound cleaner the pre polish and wax? Just wondering? What is the difference between the compound stuff and a clay bar?Since you have kona blue paint i recommend PMing FromZto5 as he has arguably the best kona finish on this site!
2/22/14, 11:15 PM
#26
Shelby GT500 Member
Thread Starter
Clay bar will remove surface contāinants and stuff kinda embedded in the clear coat. With a good lubricant the clay bar will pull stuff out of the surface making it very smooth. Make sure its well lunricated or else the clay will stick to the clearcoat. A compound is usually a little bit more abrasive than a standard polish. Compounds are better for removing more swirls as well as light to medium oxidation (haze of the finish). Ive found that when the paint is heavily swirled and has oxidation, this system works very well. 1: wash with dishsoap 2 claybar with soapy water as the lubricant then rewash with normal car wash soap (try to avoid wash and wax stuff) 3: compound (orange cutting pad) 4 polish (gray polishing pad) 5: Sealant or wax application. (Or sealant topped with wax) (i like blue pads, work very well. Or any foam pad will work really, just nothing too coarse) 6: sit back and enjoy the shine (cold beverage highly recommended)
Since you have kona blue paint i recommend PMing FromZto5 as he has arguably the best kona finish on this site!
Since you have kona blue paint i recommend PMing FromZto5 as he has arguably the best kona finish on this site!
2/23/14, 03:38 AM
#27
Cobra Member
Thanks for the heads up about the painters tape tip.. So according to the description of this Compound cleaner stuff doesn't that remove the swirl marks and grayish film? Isn't the compound cleaner the pre polish and wax? Just wondering? What is the difference between the compound stuff and a clay bar?
So according to the description of this Compound cleaner stuff doesn't that remove the swirl marks and grayish film? Isn't the compound cleaner the pre polish and wax? Just wondering? What is the difference between the compound stuff and a clay bar?Usually the things called compounds or levelers or cutting fluid are on the heavier side of things. Finishing polish or jewelers polish is med low and a cleaner wax would be a 1 on the scale of 1-10 10 being the heaviest compound. Think of wax as a -#. It won't remove anything just mask (by wax I mean carnauba).
So that being said, I want to clarify that you want to cut, then polish, THEN seal and/or wax. If you only polish and wax, your swirls and oxy wouldn't come out much at all.
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