Car Detailing 101
7/20/12, 10:12 PM
#162
Detailing Guru
Join Date: May 16, 2011
Location: SE Michigan
Posts: 348
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Al, Magic Erasers also work very well on textured plastic. That's my go-to on that type of material, so if you don't have a big pencil eraser but have a Magic Eraser, give it a shot.
7/20/12, 10:16 PM
#163
A Man Just Needs Some....
Cool Marc. That sounds even better. Just got my car back from the body shop. Fender looks great but of course now I got some new swirls from what ever guy does the washing over there. DANGITT!
Guess I got some polishing to do again.
Guess I got some polishing to do again.
7/20/12, 10:19 PM
#164
Cobra Member
Join Date: January 26, 2012
Location: Steubenville,Ohio
Posts: 1,263
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
Originally Posted by Overboost
They're like the Wal-Mart of the detailing community. They offer a ton of products, no doubt, but I think the actual pricing and ease of use has gone down since I started. I prefer Detailed Image or Detailer's Domain for most of my stuff. Actually, even better, I found an actual store called Autoality outside of Pittsburgh that's a really cool niche detailing shop, and the owner has a lot of good info to share.
I believe he moved out of Monroeville Mall and now has his shop on Babcock Blvd. in the North Hills.
-------Bill
7/20/12, 10:27 PM
#165
Originally Posted by BB3
Right there with you Overboost in regards to Autoality. Great owner and a fantastic store.
I believe he moved out of Monroeville Mall and now has his shop on Babcock Blvd. in the North Hills.
-------Bill
7/23/12, 04:18 PM
#166
A Man Just Needs Some....
Question for the pros. What wash mitts or sponges are y'all using for the actual wash? I was using a MF mitt and I need a new one or what ever you guys recommend.
7/23/12, 05:04 PM
#167
Detailing Guru
Join Date: May 16, 2011
Location: SE Michigan
Posts: 348
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Either lambswool or microfiber mitts. Lambswool is nice but isn't durable, while microfiber makes care a breeze; just wash with other microfiber on the hottest water possible.
7/23/12, 09:31 PM
#168
I Have No Life
Thread Starter
7/23/12, 09:51 PM
#170
I Have No Life
Thread Starter
Ok guys... I just wanted to share my results from a post wash I did today.
Marilyn was washed with a dual bucket method, dual grit guards, 3 mitts, ONR in rinse bucket, CG honeydew and ONR in wash bucket, ARO for rims, boars brush for brakes and spokes and lug nuts, sponges for rims, old mf's for inner wheel wells.
Marilyn was dried with the sheeting method, then leaf blow dried, then MF's with FK425. Then all door jambs were dried with V7. Rims sealed with V7. Hood jambs also dried with V7.
Here's the results of what proper washing techniques can do. I have not corrected/buffed Marilyn since November last year, and even then, it was just a light white polish pad with some light polish. Marilyn is still swirl free from the factory
I can still remember the day I brought her home off the truck.....ahhhh
Anyways, here's some photos, taken at dusk (I LOVE dusk lighting) all unedited. She is still wearing Victoria Concours Red Wax from last week. I plan to put another coat on her this week. Sorry the photos are just in my driveway.... but I wasn't going to drive her until I get another layer of Victoria Red on her, maybe tomorrow.
Did I tell you guys how much I LOVE Kona? Lol.... that purple to blue transition is priceless. John, if you're reading this, can't believe you were thinking about trading her in for Red Candy
Marilyn was washed with a dual bucket method, dual grit guards, 3 mitts, ONR in rinse bucket, CG honeydew and ONR in wash bucket, ARO for rims, boars brush for brakes and spokes and lug nuts, sponges for rims, old mf's for inner wheel wells.
Marilyn was dried with the sheeting method, then leaf blow dried, then MF's with FK425. Then all door jambs were dried with V7. Rims sealed with V7. Hood jambs also dried with V7.
Here's the results of what proper washing techniques can do. I have not corrected/buffed Marilyn since November last year, and even then, it was just a light white polish pad with some light polish. Marilyn is still swirl free from the factory
I can still remember the day I brought her home off the truck.....ahhhhAnyways, here's some photos, taken at dusk (I LOVE dusk lighting) all unedited. She is still wearing Victoria Concours Red Wax from last week. I plan to put another coat on her this week. Sorry the photos are just in my driveway.... but I wasn't going to drive her until I get another layer of Victoria Red on her, maybe tomorrow.
Did I tell you guys how much I LOVE Kona? Lol.... that purple to blue transition is priceless. John, if you're reading this, can't believe you were thinking about trading her in for Red Candy
Last edited by FromZto5; 7/23/12 at 09:54 PM.
7/23/12, 09:57 PM
#171
A Man Just Needs Some....
Still looking great man. Just don't know if I can go through that much trouble just washing it. Looks like it really pays off but I'm just too impatient. She's beautiful though. 
7/23/12, 10:02 PM
#172
I Have No Life
Thread Starter
It's really not that hard... you just need the right equipment and technique...then voila.
Proper paint care is crucial to maintaining a show car finish.
7/23/12, 10:10 PM
#173
Cobra Member
Join Date: January 26, 2012
Location: Steubenville,Ohio
Posts: 1,263
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
It will take you at least 45 minutes to get there from Monroeville. You know all that **** traffic around the Squirrel Hill Tunnels screws everything up.......
Babcock Blvd. is the left street over from McKnight Rd. piece of cake to get to really, but like I said......that **** traffic.------Bill
Babcock Blvd. is the left street over from McKnight Rd. piece of cake to get to really, but like I said......that **** traffic.------Bill
7/23/12, 10:17 PM
#174
I Have No Life
Thread Starter
It will take you at least 45 minutes to get there from Monroeville. You know all that **** traffic around the Squirrel Hill Tunnels screws everything up.......
Babcock Blvd. is the left street over from McKnight Rd. piece of cake to get to really, but like I said......that **** traffic.------Bill
Babcock Blvd. is the left street over from McKnight Rd. piece of cake to get to really, but like I said......that **** traffic.------Bill
Bill... did you post this in the wrong thread??? lol
7/23/12, 10:22 PM
#176
Cobra Member
Join Date: January 26, 2012
Location: Steubenville,Ohio
Posts: 1,263
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
Originally Posted by Overboost
I'm not thrilled that they moved out of the mall. How far away is it now from the mall?
Sorry Overboost, I forgot to quote you before I responded.
My apologies.------Bill
7/24/12, 03:03 AM
#178
Cobra R Member
Join Date: December 13, 2004
Location: United States
Posts: 1,708
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes
on
3 Posts
Originally Posted by AlsCobra
New question: Since I polished out my whole car, I have some spots of polish and compound on some rubber surfaces under the hood. What's the best way to clean polish and wax from underhood rubber and plastic? Really haven't tried much a towel with a little soap and water. Didn't really work.
Using a soft, clean, dry cloth, rub isopropyl alcohol over the trim until there are no white residue marks remaining.
Rub peanut butter across the trim to remove residual wax reside. The oils in peanuts dissolve car wax. Wipe away any excess peanut butter with a clean, dry cloth.
Wipe vinegar over the white stains until all the white waxy residue is gone.
Dampen a Mr. Clean Magic Eraser and wipe it across the trim. Use caution with the Mr. Clean Magic Eraser, if too much pressure is applied and it comes in contact with the car's paint, it can damage the paint.
Apply white toothpaste to an old toothbrush and scrub the trim in a circular motion. Rinse the toothpaste away before it dries.
Scrub the trim with dish soap (Dawn is
7/25/12, 07:38 PM
#179
Mach 1 Member
The next time you polish and wax, take a few minutes and tape off all of the trim using either 3M painters tape or the automotive version of it... it saves hours of work.
7/26/12, 05:08 AM
#180
I Have No Life
Thread Starter
Here's some good info:
Using a soft, clean, dry cloth, rub isopropyl alcohol over the trim until there are no white residue marks remaining.
Rub peanut butter across the trim to remove residual wax reside. The oils in peanuts dissolve car wax. Wipe away any excess peanut butter with a clean, dry cloth.
Wipe vinegar over the white stains until all the white waxy residue is gone.
Dampen a Mr. Clean Magic Eraser and wipe it across the trim. Use caution with the Mr. Clean Magic Eraser, if too much pressure is applied and it comes in contact with the car's paint, it can damage the paint.
Apply white toothpaste to an old toothbrush and scrub the trim in a circular motion. Rinse the toothpaste away before it dries.
Scrub the trim with dish soap (Dawn is
Using a soft, clean, dry cloth, rub isopropyl alcohol over the trim until there are no white residue marks remaining.
Rub peanut butter across the trim to remove residual wax reside. The oils in peanuts dissolve car wax. Wipe away any excess peanut butter with a clean, dry cloth.
Wipe vinegar over the white stains until all the white waxy residue is gone.
Dampen a Mr. Clean Magic Eraser and wipe it across the trim. Use caution with the Mr. Clean Magic Eraser, if too much pressure is applied and it comes in contact with the car's paint, it can damage the paint.
Apply white toothpaste to an old toothbrush and scrub the trim in a circular motion. Rinse the toothpaste away before it dries.
Scrub the trim with dish soap (Dawn is