That's what I thought. Do you use MF towels on the tinting?

 

Correct sir

 

Question about using the PC and foam pads. Any need to tape off edges, should I be worried about burning through where the contours of our car make a sharp edge? How about where there are gaps between panels? I just have very light marring in some places, so I was going to use the CCS orange pad and Meguires swirl remover 2.0. It had been washed a couple times incorrectly and I can see a few light scratches, but it has only been washed prolly 5 or 7 times on a new factory paint job. Still looks pretty good, but I don't want to be embarrassed on Woodward.
Thanks for this thread, it has helped a lot, and I have also pumped a lot of money into the economy!

 

Lol it's all about the economy eh?

Yes, when buffing, it is advisable to tape off the trim where it meets the paint. This is to allow you to correct/buff with the DA up to the very edge without harming the trim or the foam pad. As for the contours of the paint, no. No need to tape off. Do you use the thick pads? I believe they are like 1 to 1-1/2" thick. I use Lake Country...best imo. Also make sure you use a backing plate that is about at least 1" smaller in dia. than the pad... this will allow the pad to "buckle in" on itself, keeping your paint safe from the spinning back plate.

Make sense?

Of course, don't rush, take your time, and be careful around trim and sharp edges.

 

Decided to try Wolfgang on my 09. Clayed it, hit it with the Wolfgang 3.0 finishing glaze, then a coat of their 3.0 deep gloss sealant, waited a day & topped off with a coat of their Fuzion wax. I like the finish, definitely very deep & wet looking, & very reflective. Wolfgang is pricey, but a very good product.
Oh, we also did my buddy's grabber blue GT500. Same process & products. Pics of it coming later today after we give it a coat of Fuzion.

Edit: Sorry, this was supposed to be a new thread. Somehow I managed to put it in the wrong place. If there's a moderator lurking about, please move this post to a new thread if possible.

 

Very nice mcate. Don't forget fuzion has a free refill. . Also black is the best color to showcase the fuzion combo. Btw did you use a buffer for the correction? Or did you not correct the paint? Make sure you deswirl to get the full effect. Swirls have no place on our paint

 

Thanx! I have my trusty old PC 7336 that I use for correction. I did swirl removal on it back in March with Poorboy's SSR2.5 & SSR1, & it really didn't need it this time. I've used nothing but Poorboy's products for years, & only recently decided to try out Wolfgang. I was leery because I know it's Autogeek's "house" brand, & it's only natural that they'd push it pretty hard. But I read some more unbiased reviews that were very positive, & decided to give it a try. I'm VERY impressed so far. I've done my wife's race red GT/CS & my black 09, & my buddy's grabber blue Shelby. I don't see a lot of difference between Poorboy's & Wolfgang, but I do think WG is just that slight bit better. I'll probably still use Poorboy's on customer cars, but save the Wolfgang for mine!

 

Wait till you try menzerna polish products.

 

:agreed:
Ive used menzerna polish once cuz a buddy of mine let me try it out, along with his new PC polisher. Holy crap, lemme tell ya not a swirl or mark on my paint and it was as smooth as freshly polished glass!

 

I've heard of Menzerna through the years, but never tried it. I notice on Autogeek that the WG Finishing Glaze 3.0 says "by Menzerna". I also noticed that the Finishing Glaze 3.0 says it's a glaze/polish. I've used glazes & I've used polishes, but never one in the same. I did have some very minor swirling, & the glaze/polish took it right out. Very impressive. I also was extremely impressed with the finish after the Deep Gloss Sealant 3.0. I love to layer wax after sealant (next day of course), & I put a coat of Fuzion over the sealant. But I'm not sure I improved the finish with the wax. That sealant leaves a beautiful finish.

 

It does, but IMO its not the same. My entire shelf has the full lineup of menzerna stuff, in 32 oz. like I said, you guys do NOT want to know how much investment I have in detailing...lol.

Anyways, I tried most of all other products like Meg's, optimum, poor boys, etc.... I come back to menzerna. Finishes down reeeeally nice, minimal dusting, and a long working time, should you need it. But it corrects in a very short time, even on verrrrry hard corvette clears (customers I do)

 

Oh Autogeek...how I loathe you. Probably one of the most misleading sites around for detailing.

 

They have SO many different polishing compounds, makes me wonder which to use for what jobs?

 

Serious Steve? Why? I LOVE auto geek... been on there for yeeeeears. They have the best customer service around. Why the hate?

 

They're like the Wal-Mart of the detailing community. They offer a ton of products, no doubt, but I think the actual pricing and ease of use has gone down since I started. I prefer Detailed Image or Detailer's Domain for most of my stuff. Actually, even better, I found an actual store called Autoality outside of Pittsburgh that's a really cool niche detailing shop, and the owner has a lot of good info to share.

 

Is there anything local I can use for my Rotary Pads to clean?
And how long can you use the pad? Will it do the entire car before washing or conditioning?
What size pads do you recommend.

I have a Kona Blue Mustang, when I get to the car cruise is ok to use detail spray after a California duster?
Am I better using a detail spray or a diluted solution of ONR?
Thanks

 

holy loaded questions, bro lol... I will try to answer later, as I am at work.

Those are big questions

but as far as scratch/swirling if you are worried, just think of it this way. If you rub ANYthing onto your paint, whether you are using MF towels, a cali duster, etc.... you will scratch your paint. Simple as that. Dust, dirt, etc.... if caught between your towel and paint, will scratch it. Just depends on the DEGREE to which it is marring your paint.

So...must be very careful.... and use common sense.

 

Edited first post to add a how to for, clay barring. I realized I never expanded on this subject.

CLAY BAR - what exactly is its purpose and how to use it?

A clay bar is exactly that. A "clay" "bar". Lol. Imagine playdoh for grow ups who love cars. Lol. Its purpose? To remove surface contaminants embedded in your car's clear coat. These contaminants feel rough to the touch, and take away from the smooth glass finish hat we all strive to get. It may take away from the best shine and wet look you are trying to achieve. Worst of all? If not removed, these contaminants can lead to surface rust if not removed diligently.

So how will you know if you need to clay? After a good car wash, grab a sandwich bag (not the ziploc type). Insert in on your hand like a glove. Run your hand across the paint surface. If you feel resistance and or rough spots, you need to clay.

How to clay? Buy yourself a good claybar... Like mothers or meguiars. To be honest, I found the mothers yellow clay bar to be too aggressive... Aggressive clay bar require less repetition but can damage paint easily..so choose wisely. If you're gonna correct paint anyways, go with mothers.

Anyways, grab several mf towels. Grab a ton of detail spray. Work panel by panel.... 2x2' at a time, no more. Spray the surface liberally. The using the claybar, lay it flat on your four fingers sans thumb. Glide the bar across the lubed area. Keep rubbing until it is smooth as glass. Knead the clay bar, and remold into another good surface, often. Do NOT rub a dirty clay bar on to your paint. Once surface was clayed, wipe off with good clean mfs.

As for pressure and direction, use only your three fingers (index, middle, ring). On horizontal surfaces clay AWAY from the car. On vertical surfaces, clay DOWNWARD".

Wipe clayed area with clean mfs. Re test with the sandwich bag. Is it smooth as glass? You're done. If not....repeat steps for claying.

Does that help?

Remember:

1) if bar is dropped, throw it away.

2) keep claying until finish is smooooooooooth as glass

3) once clayed, you are ready to correct paint and deswirl....or if already swirl free, then seal or wax.

 

New question: Since I polished out my whole car, I have some spots of polish and compound on some rubber surfaces under the hood. What's the best way to clean polish and wax from underhood rubber and plastic? Really haven't tried much a towel with a little soap and water. Didn't really work.

 

I always use one of these.