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Car Detailing 101

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Old Jan 25, 2012 | 10:59 AM
  #41  
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From: SE Michigan
Originally Posted by sai
placed an order with all the above stuff except the clothes,I need a good carwash shampoo as well
Most car wash shampoos will do just fine. Just make sure to correctly dilute your shampoo to the manufacturers directions. Many shampoos dilute 128:1 AKA one ounce of shampoo per gallon of water it is to be diluted into. Some are 64:1, and others go all the way up to 1500:1 depending on how the shampoo was made and how concentrated it is.
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Old Jan 28, 2012 | 01:03 AM
  #42  
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sai
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From: San Antonio, TX
Here are the items I bought
1 "Swissvax SE1054090 Wheel Cleaning Brush"
Automotive; $15.99
In Stock
Sold by: Amazon.com LLC
1 "Meguiar's Complete Car Care Kit"
Automotive; $40.00
In Stock
Sold by: Amazon.com LLC
1 "Carrand 40059AS Microfiber MAX Supreme Deep Pile Fiber Drying Towel - 6 sqaure ft."
Automotive; $10.73
In Stock
Sold by: Amazon.com LLC
1 "Meguiar's X2020 Supreme Shine Microfiber Cloths (Pack of 3)"
Automotive; $7.99
In Stock
Sold by: Amazon.com LLC
1 "Meguiar's X3080 EvenCoat Applicator - Pack of 2"
Automotive; $6.15
In Stock
Sold by: Amazon.com LLC
1 "Meguiar's G-9524 Hot Rims All Wheel Cleaner. 24 oz."
Automotive; $5.87
In Stock
Sold by: Amazon.com LLC

1 "EZ Detail Brush"
$21.95
In Stock
Sold by: Palm Beach Motoring Accessories

1 "Grit Guard Insert"
$6.95
In Stock
Sold by: Professional Car Care

1 "Grit Guard Insert"
$6.95
In Stock
Sold by: Professional Car Care
1 2pack griot wash mitt from a different site

will get 2 wash buckets from walmart

Now I need the best detailing process to maintain my car without scratching or losing color
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Old Jan 28, 2012 | 07:03 AM
  #43  
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That looks fine, sai. Now remember, all the best detailing equipment won't do you any good if you don't use them properly. Make you take your time and take great care not marr or swirl or scratch your paint during the wash and dry process....
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Old Jan 28, 2012 | 07:07 AM
  #44  
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^ +1

The wash process is the mist important part. Be in the shade if you can, make sure your mitt is properly lubed up with soap so nothing will drag across the paint, start from the roof and work your way down hitting the wheels last. I find that using vertical strokes (follow direction of airflow) helps because it lowers risj for swirl marks. Use long overlapping strokes. If you have something you can use as a pre-soak i found that helps too. I ise Ultima Waterless Wash+ but any waterless wash or quick detailer will do. Just tossin in my .2
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Old Jan 28, 2012 | 07:14 AM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by CCTking
^ +1

The wash process is the mist important part. Be in the shade if you can, make sure your mitt is properly lubed up with soap so nothing will drag across the paint, start from the roof and work your way down hitting the wheels last. I find that using vertical strokes (follow direction of airflow) helps because it lowers risj for swirl marks. Use long overlapping strokes. If you have something you can use as a pre-soak i found that helps too. I ise Ultima Waterless Wash+ but any waterless wash or quick detailer will do. Just tossin in my .2
That is correct cctking. I didn't get into too much advanced detail. But yes when washing, follow the panels, start from base then outward. So like on the hood, I start at windshield base then outward toward grill. Repeat in other panels. So on door start at window base then down toward rockers, etc. mitt goes in one direction only. Rinse use grit guard intensely the repeat. I also use 3 mitts at least.

Presoak is good too depending on severity of dirt (if caked on) etc. I use a foam gun, both pressurized and hose versions. Good stuff.
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Old Jan 28, 2012 | 08:28 AM
  #46  
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From: Louisiana
So I finally started some paint correcting yesterday. All day yesterday and only about half way done. I put a couple progress pics on the coast to coast thread but I'll try and do some type of little right up on this thread when I'm done. It's not easy at all but definitely worth it.
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Old Jan 28, 2012 | 08:57 AM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by AlsCobra
So I finally started some paint correcting yesterday. All day yesterday and only about half way done. I put a couple progress pics on the coast to coast thread but I'll try and do some type of little right up on this thread when I'm done. It's not easy at all but definitely worth it.
Oh yea definitely. Paint correction is a PITA but the results are well worth the time and effort.
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Old Jan 28, 2012 | 11:12 AM
  #48  
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Originally Posted by AlsCobra
So I finally started some paint correcting yesterday. All day yesterday and only about half way done. I put a couple progress pics on the coast to coast thread but I'll try and do some type of little right up on this thread when I'm done. It's not easy at all but definitely worth it.
sounds awesome man. can you please post more details about products and process? which thread do you mean coast to coast?
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Old Jan 28, 2012 | 11:17 AM
  #49  
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From: Louisiana
Yep. I just put up a couple pics on that thread. I have a pinnacle intermediate swirl kit that is just ok. I'm also using some meguires products that are actually saving me some time. Meg's ultimate compound, scratch 2.0, and ultimate polish. So I'm using about six different products right now. Lol.
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Old Jan 28, 2012 | 11:22 AM
  #50  
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Originally Posted by AlsCobra
Yep. I just put up a couple pics on that thread. I have a pinnacle intermediate swirl kit that is just ok. I'm also using some meguires products that are actually saving me some time. Meg's ultimate compound, scratch 2.0, and ultimate polish. So I'm using about six different products right now. Lol.
Do you have a link to that thread, please?

and what polisher/machine did you use? Sorry, but I get all excited about detailing...esp hearing all about what other people are doing.
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Old Jan 28, 2012 | 11:34 AM
  #51  
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From: Louisiana
Can't link it because I'm on the app but it is in the general mustang chat section. Mustang Coast to Coast from yesterday.
I bought the porter Cable 7424 XP with a pinnacle pad and chemical kit. I'll definitely post some pics and process descriptions here when I have a good bit of time.
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Old Jan 28, 2012 | 12:17 PM
  #52  
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Originally Posted by FromZto5

Do you have a link to that thread, please?

and what polisher/machine did you use? Sorry, but I get all excited about detailing...esp hearing all about what other people are doing.
Haha dont worry im on the same boat! I could talk all day with someone about the detail process and allthe different variables that can be taken into consideration. Exciting stuff really
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Old Jan 28, 2012 | 10:33 PM
  #53  
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Link to Als pics: https://themustangsource.com/f657/mu...1/#post6235982

Looking good!
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Old Jan 29, 2012 | 12:29 AM
  #54  
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Originally Posted by MarcHarris
Definitely good work! I need to get some halogens or go to the store and get a good bright light
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Old Jan 29, 2012 | 07:23 PM
  #55  
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Update. I have at least 10-12 hrs in it so far. Sheet metal done but not the bumpers. Perfection is unobtainable but much improvement. Truly I have a new found respect for professional detailers and I would recommend paying the pros to do it for you. NO its not worth it to DIY.

I'm really liking the results but I have saved no money and costed me a lot of time to do it myself. Not worth it IMO.
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Old Jan 29, 2012 | 07:41 PM
  #56  
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From: SE Michigan
Originally Posted by CCTking
Definitely good work! I need to get some halogens or go to the store and get a good bright light
Halogens can really come in handy, though they're not the best for spot checking quickly and don't forget how hot they get. Using multiple light sources (with the sun being the best) really makes sure you have the best results you can.


Originally Posted by AlsCobra
Update. I have at least 10-12 hrs in it so far. Sheet metal done but not the bumpers. Perfection is unobtainable but much improvement. Truly I have a new found respect for professional detailers and I would recommend paying the pros to do it for you. NO its not worth it to DIY.

I'm really liking the results but I have saved no money and costed me a lot of time to do it myself. Not worth it IMO.
It's sure not quick or easy on the body at times, but I think you'll find in the end it WILL be worth it; especially if you treat her well after your done. Keep in mind the big multi-step correction jobs aren't needed all the time, and in the future you should be able to skip to the last step if all goes well. Keep up the good work and I look forward to pics!
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Old Jan 29, 2012 | 08:38 PM
  #57  
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Originally Posted by AlsCobra
Update. I have at least 10-12 hrs in it so far. Sheet metal done but not the bumpers. Perfection is unobtainable but much improvement. Truly I have a new found respect for professional detailers and I would recommend paying the pros to do it for you. NO its not worth it to DIY.

I'm really liking the results but I have saved no money and costed me a lot of time to do it myself. Not worth it IMO.
Once the paint correction is done an you proerly clay, polish, seal and wax it you will be set for a good long while. One job with my car an im set for the majority of the year, about 8 months worth of paint protection
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Old Jan 29, 2012 | 08:43 PM
  #58  
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What do you do with decals and clear bras? No polishing and clay bar obviously but do you do everything else? I have some rubber marks on my clear bra from the track and I scratched it up trying to remove them.
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Old Jan 29, 2012 | 09:19 PM
  #59  
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Originally Posted by 5 DOT 0
What do you do with decals and clear bras? No polishing and clay bar obviously but do you do everything else? I have some rubber marks on my clear bra from the track and I scratched it up trying to remove them.
You actually can polish clear-bras, but it should only be done by hand or with a DA polisher. You might not fully restore clarity, but it'll greatly improve the look for sure.
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Old Jan 29, 2012 | 11:29 PM
  #60  
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Originally Posted by 5 DOT 0
What do you do with decals and clear bras? No polishing and clay bar obviously but do you do everything else? I have some rubber marks on my clear bra from the track and I scratched it up trying to remove them.
Like MarcHarris said you can polish them but personally i would go with hand application on a surface like that. You control exactly where the polish goes and how much force is being worked. Better feel for the job in other words.
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