kylerohde

Thanks guys - a few responses in case anything changes what you both thought:

• I totally agree on claying, and always do that before waxing. Did that this time too - it was polishing I said I didn't do because I ran into a similar problem with drying too quick using Meguiar's Ultimate Polish.
• Surprised Griot's didn't work better, especially for the price. I know you've tried TONS of different waxes/sealants, but which is your guys' fave (I want something that lasts longer, even at the expense of a little shine) that's reasonably priced ($30 or less a bottle)?
  • Side question: what's the diff between a sealant and wax and, if they're different, should you use both?
• I'd been in the garage for over an hour and it was only 65 outside, so I don't think that was the issue.
• I definitely might be going over the area too much and spending too much time on it; that seems to make sense with the wax drying too quick, so maybe that's it.

I'm going to detail my wife's new-to-us car this weekend, which needs a clay bar + wax badly. Also going to try out Dr. ColorChip, as there's a 1/8" wide by 1/4" sized chip out of the hood, plus a couple other smaller chips. We'll see how I do then.

Thanks to you both!

MarcHarris

To better understand what wax is and how it works, read this: https://themustangsource.com/f659/as...1/#post6633198

ColSaulTigh

Excuse me - I have a question!!!

I'm planning on doing my initial paint correction/polishing on my new 2014 Black Mustang GT this weekend. I have Chemical Guys V32, v34, v36, & v38 paint correcting polishes. I have Orange, White, and Black HexLogic 6 1/2" pads, and a PC 7427xp DA polisher. I will wash, then clay the car before I move on to correcting. My question(s):

1) I assume, depending on how badly it's swirled will determine which one of the V-series polishes I use. My question, is there some kind of 'gauge' to determine which compound is right based on the level of damage? I don't want to over-shoot by using too aggressive a polish (I assume).

2) If I use v36 (for example), do I need to follow it with the next-higher level (finer grit) polish before I move onto the final polish?

3) As far as I can tell, there's no "cure time" for these paint correcting polishes, correct? Meaning, I can go straight from paint correction to applying my Black Light Polish (cure time: 15 mins per coat, 2 coats max) & Carnauba wax?

4) What should I use to clean my pads after I'm done? I've read everything from hot water and Dawn dish soap to buying proprietary pad washing solution - I'm confused!

5) Are you tired of my questions yet?

Thanks!

mikenapoli

1. It's always best to try the least aggressive method first and work your way progressively more aggressive, especially if this is your first time trying paint correction. By the same token, those with experience can look at a paint finish and determine a reasonable starting point without wasting time on what they know won't work. I'm only stating this to answer your question, as starting light and working up is still the best way for you to go about this.

2. Although I'm admittedly not familiar with CG correction polishes, it can't hurt to follow a medium polish like V36 with a finer one such as V38. In most cases, you will get a slight increase in gloss and remove the very faintest marring that V36 may leave behind. But try to check your work with Isopropyl Alcohol diluted with distilled water. I mix mine to about 20-25% strength. This will ensure you are actually removing swirls and not just filling them in.

3. The word polish is a bit tricky, as there isn't really a standard for its use in car care products. True ABRASIVE polishes do not have a cure time...use them and wipe them off. Some other products with "polish" in the name, such as Zaino and Duragloss, are actually sealants and will have a cure time which will normally be stated with each product. Blacklight is more of an all in one polish/glaze/light protectant with minimal corrective ability, and I don't believe a cure time is needed with it either.

4. Dawn Power Dissolver is a great over the counter pad cleaner you can find at WalMart and some grocery stores. If you keep all purpose cleaner around, such as Adams or Meguiar's, you can use it to clean pads as well. Those fancy pad cleaners work well, but are by no means a necessity.

5. No


If I can make one more general recommendation, 6.5" pads may be a little hard for the PCXP to keep spinning under the kind of pressure you'll need for paint correction. I know most kits are sold with 6.5" pads, but 5.5" pads are much easier for the machine to spin without bogging down. Mark your backing plate with a Sharpie and keep an eye on it. If that mark stops spinning and just jiggles, ease off your pressure.

MarcHarris

^ this is why I like having Mike around.

aaaannnnnnddddd question answered.

mustangbeast

Hey Fellow Mustang Folks,

I just got myself a 2015 red mustang and I was wondering if you could suggest me interior cleaner, leather cleaner, tire cleaner and was. In short, it would be great if you could tell me about the detailing the car.

Thank you.

mustangfan410

This is the stuff that I use...
Interior cleaner- Chemical Guys InnerClean- Has a nice sent, water based, dry to the touch, and has little to no shine. Some others on here use Aerospace 303 for the interior/exterior plastics.
Leather Cleaner- ChemicaL Guys Leather Cleaner and Conditioner- I have a small bottle of leather cleaner and a large bottle of conditioner works well for me.
Tire Cleaner- havent used any yet, Im planning on ordering the Chemical Guys Diablo wheel/ tire cleaner, their reviews have been good.

hope this helps.

FromZto5

^ CG stuff is good. I have a host of their products, particularly Mr. Pink and Honeydew for washes, and their polish line, and of course Jetseal, Blacklight, and 5050.

HMR-TYM

For what its worth, you were dead on. Great advice, and great reminders for those who know, but get impatient. Like me.

HMR-TYM

I have used both the chemical guys Inner Clean and the Aerospace, both are great products. Tires and wheels im indiffrent because mine is not a DD. I lean to chemical guys for about everything except the leather. For me, I prefer "Mr Leather" for my interior. It doesnt come cheap though. And in regards to the above post. Chemical Guys - Black Light, Jet Seal, (Choose a CG wax), and Hybrid V7...... lay those down, and it looks like glass.

robjh22

Man, I just washed my red 2010 GT and finished it with this spray polymer stuff. Used a sponge and an old t-shirt. I thought I did a good job, but I'm glad you cats aren't looking at it! I have a lot to learn ....

HMR-TYM

All that ever matters is that it looks good to you. Nothing more frustrating that putting time into your ride and have some a-wipe pick it apart.

FromZto5

Amen to this strategy above. Amen. Love my CG stuff.

HMR-TYM

^^^^^ I likely came to that formula from following Zto5 and some of the others on here. They deserve the credit for sharing everything.

steevesj

I just purchased a 6" plate with 6.5" pads for the Porter Cable polisher. Will that be a problem or will a 1/2" be enough of a cushion between the plate and pad?

MadcapMagician

Wow, I have been washing my car all wrong. I use a brush on my yellow blaze 2011 Mustang GT convertible . I use B2B on all the black and Meguiars Tech 2.0 wax. I wash the car with hot water and some dawn pin a bucket without a grit guard. Could one of you guys steer me in the right direction? If I am doing something stupid let me know...I am a man.... Not looking to put anyone's kid through college with purchasing a load of new stuff.

Thanks in advance for any and all help.

FromZto5

^ Ditch the brush. Buy a soft MF mitt to wash. Don't use Dawn unless you're stripping LSPs. Buy a buffer, pads, polish, and several MF's to paint correct your car and remove swirls. Then buy some LSP's to protect your car afterwards.

MadcapMagician

LSP?? I have a craftsman 10 inch buffer, I,assume I ditch that. What type of buffer or a Milwaukee right angle grinder will,do? What kind of pads? I am a little clueless at this point as you can tell. I need some,edumacatin to happen

CCTking

LSP stands for last stage protection if I recall correctly. Meaning it's the stuff after polishing and what not. A DA buffer (dual action = circular rotation in a circular pattern) is what you want. Something like a porter cable or even meguairs own DA is great for all users but also very beginner friendly. As far as pads and MF towels go, lake county has the best pads and Cobra brand MF are the best ways to go. Check out autogeek.net, can find just about anything and learn just as much on there as well. Hope this helps!

TripleBlack14

I also have a PC, but it came with a 5" disc and I use 5.5" pads. You want a little pad over hang. Sometimes you might have to tilt the buffer for tight areas and you don't want the hard edge of the disc touching the car's surface. The 1/2" excess prevents that.