Ponies on The Run (Again)
#9101
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After more seat time with the 87P, I can explain more thoroughly why it's sooooo much better for a daily driver.
First, during the 35% of my drive that is in traffic, the throttle response of the 93R was awesome, but as we all know, the person in front of you is never going to take off as fast as you can or would like to. The 93R is also great when you are at WOT through all the gears, but that's not happening in traffic. The 87P still has great throttle response over the factory tune, but is much more forgiving when the Chevy Malibu or the Dodge Caravan in front of you won't get out of your way.
Second, during the 65% of my drive that is on the highway, there is still plenty of power to accelerate onto the Turnpike, but most of the time my cruise is set to 80 MPH and I never touch the gas pedal. The 93R wasn't doing me much good here, and there is still plenty of power with the 87P if you need to downshift to pass.
Overall, like I said before, the 87P is a much more streetable tune for the daily driver/commuter.
First, during the 35% of my drive that is in traffic, the throttle response of the 93R was awesome, but as we all know, the person in front of you is never going to take off as fast as you can or would like to. The 93R is also great when you are at WOT through all the gears, but that's not happening in traffic. The 87P still has great throttle response over the factory tune, but is much more forgiving when the Chevy Malibu or the Dodge Caravan in front of you won't get out of your way.
Second, during the 65% of my drive that is on the highway, there is still plenty of power to accelerate onto the Turnpike, but most of the time my cruise is set to 80 MPH and I never touch the gas pedal. The 93R wasn't doing me much good here, and there is still plenty of power with the 87P if you need to downshift to pass.
Overall, like I said before, the 87P is a much more streetable tune for the daily driver/commuter.
#9102
In the process of doing some heavy-duty research for this Saturday's mod installations.
With Leo supervising me ( ), it should go fairly smooth. Just the crank pulley and re-installation seems to be the only pain.
I'm thinking about stopping at the Ford Dealer to get a new crank bolt.
With Leo supervising me ( ), it should go fairly smooth. Just the crank pulley and re-installation seems to be the only pain.
I'm thinking about stopping at the Ford Dealer to get a new crank bolt.
#9103
#9104
Team Mustang Source
In the process of doing some heavy-duty research for this Saturday's mod installations.
With Leo supervising me ( ), it should go fairly smooth. Just the crank pulley and re-installation seems to be the only pain.
I'm thinking about stopping at the Ford Dealer to get a new crank bolt.
With Leo supervising me ( ), it should go fairly smooth. Just the crank pulley and re-installation seems to be the only pain.
I'm thinking about stopping at the Ford Dealer to get a new crank bolt.
Do you have a big enough impact wrench to take of the OEM bolt ? I think I've seen a 3/4 drive impact at Harbor Freight that was pretty cheap.
On the tranny discussion, following this along... when did the change to ATF in Manual transmissions happen ?? (obviously before 89).. I've only known them to have crappy gear oil at 90wt. It just has surprised me that ATF works ??
Tom, that World Class looks great and I'm sure with the centerforce it outght to hold the power w/o slipping
#9105
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On the tranny discussion, following this along... when did the change to ATF in Manual transmissions happen ?? (obviously before 89).. I've only known them to have crappy gear oil at 90wt. It just has surprised me that ATF works ??
Tom, that World Class looks great and I'm sure with the centerforce it outght to hold the power w/o slipping
Tom, that World Class looks great and I'm sure with the centerforce it outght to hold the power w/o slipping
Up to 1984 and in any Non World Class transmission, 70 wt gear oil is used.
#9106
BTW, the part number from the Service Manual DVD does not jive with the part number the Parts Counter sees.
For future reference (Brian.. Leo... ), the correct part number for the crank pulley bolt is F5RZ*6A340*B.
Regarding the crank bolt removal, I have a 1/2" drive impact. With the pressure max'd out, using a short air line, I'm pretty sure it'll break loose.
#9107
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There goes Tom, trying to save a buck by running Regular Unleaded.
That's the last reason... but why not?
Regarding the crank bolt removal, I have a 1/2" drive impact. With the pressure max'd out, using a short air line, I'm pretty sure it'll break loose.
It will... I had no problem with my 03's crank bolt. Can you get a clear shot at the bolt? I had to remove the fan to fit the impact gun in there.
That's the last reason... but why not?
Regarding the crank bolt removal, I have a 1/2" drive impact. With the pressure max'd out, using a short air line, I'm pretty sure it'll break loose.
It will... I had no problem with my 03's crank bolt. Can you get a clear shot at the bolt? I had to remove the fan to fit the impact gun in there.
#9108
Team Mustang Source
I agree. I just came back from my local Dealer and special ordered a new crank bolt. Price was $7.15 plus tax, pretty cheap insurance.
BTW, the part number from the Service Manual DVD does not jive with the part number the Parts Counter sees.
For future reference (Brian.. Leo... ), the correct part number for the crank pulley bolt is F5RZ*6A340*B.
Regarding the crank bolt removal, I have a 1/2" drive impact. With the pressure max'd out, using a short air line, I'm pretty sure it'll break loose.
BTW, the part number from the Service Manual DVD does not jive with the part number the Parts Counter sees.
For future reference (Brian.. Leo... ), the correct part number for the crank pulley bolt is F5RZ*6A340*B.
Regarding the crank bolt removal, I have a 1/2" drive impact. With the pressure max'd out, using a short air line, I'm pretty sure it'll break loose.
It will... I had no problem with my 03's crank bolt. Can you get a clear shot at the bolt? I had to remove the fan to fit the impact gun in there.
I got a Mustang performance DVD when Doug shipped my CAI & Tuner part of it showed how to install UDPs. They showed that removing a couple bolts/screws and the fans lift right out of the engine compartment making access to the crank pulley much, much easier.
#9109
I wish... The coolant tank and p-steering reservior will have to move, and the fan's gotta go. I've already looked into it, maybe an extra 30 mins total, no biggie. Besides, can always use the extra room.
#9111
Team Mustang Source
#9112
I'm tempted to take it back on the dyno after the mod installs to see once and for all what kind of real power the CMDP's and U/D pulley's put down.
But, that's another $100 for more trivial information.
But, that's another $100 for more trivial information.
#9113
Team Mustang Source
What's $100 bucks for the piece of mind knowing for sure that the tune is what it should be and the money you just spent on plates & pullies was worth it...
#9114
As far as seeing whether or not the money spent on the plates and pulleys were worth it or not... maybe I don't want to find out!
#9115
Team Mustang Source
#9116
Seen a few 07 GT's on the lot. I was thinking to myself, boy, to start all over again from a stocker.. I don't know if I could handle it!
Anyway, here a couple pics of the new crank bolt.
Attachment 26634 Attachment 26635
With this and my new tune, I think I'm ready.
#9117
I have dynoed 100s of 05+ GTs, and have never seen a dynograph that jagged. Can you send me the DRF file? I want to see if the clutch is slipping. I never have to use 5 smoothing to get a nice graph, usually they come out smooth on 0. Something is up with it.
#9118
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His clutch isn't slipping, though. His MPH to RPM graphs are perfect (a nice linear line - the way I hope mine are after the new clutch):
Smoothing 0
Smoothing 5
#9119
Tasca Super Boss 429 Member
I sent you Bill's DRF files for his 3 pulls (I'm sure he won't mind - we just want to understand the jagged graph - some say it's normal, some say it isn't). We've been told the jagged graph could be due to the sample rate of the dyno being set too high? loose connection? external interference? We have no idea if these are plausible or BS.
His clutch isn't slipping, though.
His clutch isn't slipping, though.
My only thought so far...
With the 4.10s, could it have not been strapped down tight enough and the tires slipped ?
Sample rate could be it too.
#9120
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Tires slipping would be the same as clutch slipping I would think... the MPH to RPM graph wouldn't be perfectly linear.