89Trooper

After more seat time with the 87P, I can explain more thoroughly why it's sooooo much better for a daily driver.

First, during the 35% of my drive that is in traffic, the throttle response of the 93R was awesome, but as we all know, the person in front of you is never going to take off as fast as you can or would like to. The 93R is also great when you are at WOT through all the gears, but that's not happening in traffic. The 87P still has great throttle response over the factory tune, but is much more forgiving when the Chevy Malibu or the Dodge Caravan in front of you won't get out of your way.

Second, during the 65% of my drive that is on the highway, there is still plenty of power to accelerate onto the Turnpike, but most of the time my cruise is set to 80 MPH and I never touch the gas pedal. The 93R wasn't doing me much good here, and there is still plenty of power with the 87P if you need to downshift to pass.

Overall, like I said before, the 87P is a much more streetable tune for the daily driver/commuter.

TacoBill

In the process of doing some heavy-duty research for this Saturday's mod installations.

With Leo supervising me ( ), it should go fairly smooth. Just the crank pulley and re-installation seems to be the only pain.

I'm thinking about stopping at the Ford Dealer to get a new crank bolt.

TacoBill

I looked into that. Everywhere I looked, concensus was 'No'. Just stick with what's recommended.

habu

Everything I've read about this says you should get a new bolt. It just seems like the safe thing to do.
Do you have a big enough impact wrench to take of the OEM bolt ? I think I've seen a 3/4 drive impact at Harbor Freight that was pretty cheap.

On the tranny discussion, following this along... when did the change to ATF in Manual transmissions happen ?? (obviously before 89).. I've only known them to have crappy gear oil at 90wt. It just has surprised me that ATF works ??

Tom, that World Class looks great and I'm sure with the centerforce it outght to hold the power w/o slipping

89Trooper

That's what I'll do then. Just ATF from Auto Zone.

Thanks! And I hope so!

Up to 1984 and in any Non World Class transmission, 70 wt gear oil is used.

TacoBill

There goes Tom, trying to save a buck by running Regular Unleaded.



I agree. I just came back from my local Dealer and special ordered a new crank bolt. Price was $7.15 plus tax, pretty cheap insurance.

BTW, the part number from the Service Manual DVD does not jive with the part number the Parts Counter sees.

For future reference (Brian.. Leo... ), the correct part number for the crank pulley bolt is F5RZ*6A340*B.

Regarding the crank bolt removal, I have a 1/2" drive impact. With the pressure max'd out, using a short air line, I'm pretty sure it'll break loose.

89Trooper

There goes Tom, trying to save a buck by running Regular Unleaded.
That's the last reason... but why not?

Regarding the crank bolt removal, I have a 1/2" drive impact. With the pressure max'd out, using a short air line, I'm pretty sure it'll break loose.
It will... I had no problem with my 03's crank bolt. Can you get a clear shot at the bolt? I had to remove the fan to fit the impact gun in there.

habu

Sounds good.

I got a Mustang performance DVD when Doug shipped my CAI & Tuner part of it showed how to install UDPs. They showed that removing a couple bolts/screws and the fans lift right out of the engine compartment making access to the crank pulley much, much easier.

TacoBill

I wish... The coolant tank and p-steering reservior will have to move, and the fan's gotta go. I've already looked into it, maybe an extra 30 mins total, no biggie. Besides, can always use the extra room.

TacoBill

This is the best write-up that I've found. link

I'll most likely use most of it when doing mine.

habu

I have seen that write up and it's pretty good and it shows much of what that clip had.

TacoBill

I'm tempted to take it back on the dyno after the mod installs to see once and for all what kind of real power the CMDP's and U/D pulley's put down.

But, that's another $100 for more trivial information.

habu

What's $100 bucks for the piece of mind knowing for sure that the tune is what it should be and the money you just spent on plates & pullies was worth it...

TacoBill

I'm confident of the tune since only a minor tweak was required.

As far as seeing whether or not the money spent on the plates and pulleys were worth it or not... maybe I don't want to find out!

habu

Oh I know, I was carefully not trying to say that !!!

TacoBill

Just came back from the Dealer. Funny seeing all the Sales guys approaching me for some assistance, too bad I was in the Taco.

Seen a few 07 GT's on the lot. I was thinking to myself, boy, to start all over again from a stocker.. I don't know if I could handle it!

Anyway, here a couple pics of the new crank bolt.
Attachment 26634 Attachment 26635

With this and my new tune, I think I'm ready.

Justin00Stang

I have dynoed 100s of 05+ GTs, and have never seen a dynograph that jagged. Can you send me the DRF file? I want to see if the clutch is slipping. I never have to use 5 smoothing to get a nice graph, usually they come out smooth on 0. Something is up with it.

89Trooper

I sent you Bill's DRF files for his 3 pulls (I'm sure he won't mind - we just want to understand the jagged graph - some say it's normal, some say it isn't). We've been told the jagged graph could be due to the sample rate of the dyno being set too high? loose connection? external interference? We have no idea if these are plausible or BS.

His clutch isn't slipping, though. His MPH to RPM graphs are perfect (a nice linear line - the way I hope mine are after the new clutch):

Smoothing 0


Smoothing 5

karman

I suppose you are right, they aren't usually that jagged.
My only thought so far...
With the 4.10s, could it have not been strapped down tight enough and the tires slipped ?
Sample rate could be it too.

89Trooper

Tires slipping would be the same as clutch slipping I would think... the MPH to RPM graph wouldn't be perfectly linear.