Ponies on The Run (Again)
1/17/07, 04:59 PM
#5521
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Sounds easy enough. Now assuming after driving with it for a bit I decide I want it back on will I need to jack the car up then?
It would probably make it easier, yes. But I bet you don't see any difference at all - other than a little less road "business" because of no forces acting on the sway bar, which move to the frame, which move to the body, which move to you.
One more removal question. When I pull it off and let it drop is that going to damage anything?
You'll never let anything "drop". When you take off the one link nut and pull the link's stud out of the strut assembly, nothing will happen - just lay the link down pointing toward the rear. Then, when you take out the other link, the sway bar will pivot on the front bushings (where the 4 nuts are up front). When you pull the second link's stud out of the strut assembly, hold on to it and allow the swaybar to pivot down and it will rest on the lower control arms. When you push the sway bar toward the back, get ready for it to be a little heavy and slowly lower the swaybar to the ground. Once on the ground, slowly drag the whole thing out the front under the chin spoiler.
It would probably make it easier, yes. But I bet you don't see any difference at all - other than a little less road "business" because of no forces acting on the sway bar, which move to the frame, which move to the body, which move to you.
One more removal question. When I pull it off and let it drop is that going to damage anything?
You'll never let anything "drop". When you take off the one link nut and pull the link's stud out of the strut assembly, nothing will happen - just lay the link down pointing toward the rear. Then, when you take out the other link, the sway bar will pivot on the front bushings (where the 4 nuts are up front). When you pull the second link's stud out of the strut assembly, hold on to it and allow the swaybar to pivot down and it will rest on the lower control arms. When you push the sway bar toward the back, get ready for it to be a little heavy and slowly lower the swaybar to the ground. Once on the ground, slowly drag the whole thing out the front under the chin spoiler.
BTW-have you done any 65+ driving without the swaybar?
1/17/07, 05:14 PM
#5523
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That BMR kit is made for a drag car. If you were road racing, you would want the swaybar. I asked BMR myself, and they said other than for hard cornering, the swaybar does nothing. I've taken corners pretty hard, too, and notice nothing.
1/17/07, 05:21 PM
#5524
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I've done 120+ driving. The sway bar doesn't do a thing for that... it only helps during turning. Since the real name is an ANTI-swaybar.
That BMR kit is made for a drag car. If you were road racing, you would want the swaybar. I asked BMR myself, and they said other than for hard cornering, the swaybar does nothing. I've taken corners pretty hard, too, and notice nothing.
That BMR kit is made for a drag car. If you were road racing, you would want the swaybar. I asked BMR myself, and they said other than for hard cornering, the swaybar does nothing. I've taken corners pretty hard, too, and notice nothing.
1/17/07, 05:51 PM
#5525
I tried looking for some reference pics of that area, but I don't have any.
I try and take pics of every section of the car for future reference (and cases like this), but the front sway bars escaped me.
1/17/07, 05:56 PM
#5526
Start the car and turn the steering wheel all the way to the right. Turn off the car.
Now, on the passenger's side, you can take off the two nuts that hold the sway bar to the radiator brace (just follow the sway bar toward the front of the car and you'll see what I mean). On the driver's side, you can remove the nut that holds the swaybar link to the strut assembly (this nut was removed when you changed springs).
Now start the car and turn the steering wheel all the way to the left.
Do the opposite of what you did above.
When all the nuts are off, make sure the studs on the links are out of the holes in the strut assembly. Reach under the front of the car, grab the swaybar, push it toward the rear a little to get it off the 4 studs in the front (it's heavy, but not too heavy to do this). When it will come down, lower the swaybar to the ground and drag everything out from under the nose.
Then you can replace the huge, heavy radiator support with the BMR bar since the light BMR bar won't need to take the forces of the swaybar... all it has to do is support the radiator now.
Now, on the passenger's side, you can take off the two nuts that hold the sway bar to the radiator brace (just follow the sway bar toward the front of the car and you'll see what I mean). On the driver's side, you can remove the nut that holds the swaybar link to the strut assembly (this nut was removed when you changed springs).
Now start the car and turn the steering wheel all the way to the left.
Do the opposite of what you did above.
When all the nuts are off, make sure the studs on the links are out of the holes in the strut assembly. Reach under the front of the car, grab the swaybar, push it toward the rear a little to get it off the 4 studs in the front (it's heavy, but not too heavy to do this). When it will come down, lower the swaybar to the ground and drag everything out from under the nose.
Then you can replace the huge, heavy radiator support with the BMR bar since the light BMR bar won't need to take the forces of the swaybar... all it has to do is support the radiator now.
You'll never let anything "drop". When you take off the one link nut and pull the link's stud out of the strut assembly, nothing will happen - just lay the link down pointing toward the rear. Then, when you take out the other link, the sway bar will pivot on the front bushings (where the 4 nuts are up front). When you pull the second link's stud out of the strut assembly, hold on to it and allow the swaybar to pivot down and it will rest on the lower control arms. When you push the sway bar toward the back, get ready for it to be a little heavy and slowly lower the swaybar to the ground. Once on the ground, slowly drag the whole thing out the front under the chin spoiler.
Another example on why my write-ups are so popular!
J/K, Tom.. I'm sure it's way easier than the 2 paragraph explanation.
1/17/07, 08:01 PM
#5530
GTR Member
O.K. I'm very interested in the Shelby style hood. Any of you guys have an idea on the cheapest place to buy w/shipping? Stage 3 has it for 650 w/free shipping. Also what can I expect to pay to have it prepped and painted? and lastly, I do not like hood pins so can I get away w/ not using them? Thanks
1/17/07, 08:28 PM
#5531
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Kevin at clevparts@aol.com. Can't post the price but just emai him and put "hotsheets" in the subject line.
Sorry about the triple post earlier.
BTW-I ordered my Jackstands and worklight from Sears.com I'll be doing an in store pick-up tomorrow. I'll be picking up a Roush racing jack this weekend from some dude for $70.
Sorry about the triple post earlier.
BTW-I ordered my Jackstands and worklight from Sears.com I'll be doing an in store pick-up tomorrow. I'll be picking up a Roush racing jack this weekend from some dude for $70.
1/17/07, 09:26 PM
#5532
The tool collection has begun...
1/18/07, 07:29 AM
#5534
Question to all...
Does your seatbelt seem to 'lock' too easily when you 'get on' the GO pedal?
Mine does, and it takes forever to release. Feels like I'm strapped in like a NASCAR driver!
Does your seatbelt seem to 'lock' too easily when you 'get on' the GO pedal?
Mine does, and it takes forever to release. Feels like I'm strapped in like a NASCAR driver!
1/18/07, 08:42 AM
#5535
GTR Member
1/18/07, 09:41 AM
#5536
Shelby GT350 Member
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Our parking lot is a solid sheet of ice. We have a bridge over a pond and every morning when it is slick I goose it and do a nice little *** slide around the corner. Well this morning the car just didn't want to stop so I straightened her out and did a full 180°, kept going and parked in my normal spot. Everyone at work thought I was losing control and heading into the pond. It was pretty funny.
1/18/07, 10:22 AM
#5537
(aka. Drift King)
) ***
1/18/07, 11:31 AM
#5539
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Question to all...
Does your seatbelt seem to 'lock' too easily when you 'get on' the GO pedal?
Mine does, and it takes forever to release. Feels like I'm strapped in like a NASCAR driver!
Yup.
To bad you didn't get a video of it.
Does your seatbelt seem to 'lock' too easily when you 'get on' the GO pedal?
Mine does, and it takes forever to release. Feels like I'm strapped in like a NASCAR driver!
Yup.
Yes mine does every time I gas it, but it never engaged when I did my 180° in the parking lot at work this morning.
Our parking lot is a solid sheet of ice. We have a bridge over a pond and every morning when it is slick I goose it and do a nice little *** slide around the corner. Well this morning the car just didn't want to stop so I straightened her out and did a full 180°, kept going and parked in my normal spot. Everyone at work thought I was losing control and heading into the pond. It was pretty funny.
Our parking lot is a solid sheet of ice. We have a bridge over a pond and every morning when it is slick I goose it and do a nice little *** slide around the corner. Well this morning the car just didn't want to stop so I straightened her out and did a full 180°, kept going and parked in my normal spot. Everyone at work thought I was losing control and heading into the pond. It was pretty funny.
1/18/07, 03:14 PM
#5540
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What do you guys think of these stripes???? Assuming I decide to get these do you think it would be okay to leave the chin spoiler matte black?
http://forums.bradbarnett.net/showth...025#post823025
http://forums.bradbarnett.net/showth...025#post823025