ford4v429

something else to look for...check out my passenger side rear spring-
the rubber spring seat wasnt fully on the axle when spring went in- springs sitting back about 1/2 inch or more than it should...luckily not enough for it to pop off the backside-but close...

ford4v429

question-

does Anyone have any idea why the rear drains on our doors have loose fitting plugs in them? I left mine out after sealing inside doors(smoothed transition into drains so NO water can collect in crimp below lip of drain), I just cannot understand why these things were ever installed???

TTU4.6

Will salt start eating away at our cars immediatly or does it take a couple winters before it starts to rust?

ford4v429

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(TTU4.6 @ February 19, 2006, 3:25 PM) Quoted post</div><div class='quotemain'>
Will salt start eating away at our cars immediatly or does it take a couple winters before it starts to rust?
[/b][/quote]

all the sheetmetal is galvanized and after welding the car is dipped in an epoxy primer of sorts from the look of it...these days most new cars wont show any rust for at least 5 years, maybe 10. I'd worry about that flap in front of rear wheel more than anything- fender flange might rust too, but thats a easy to replace part, the rocker/wheelhouse...nothanks.

salt can be cruel though as it gets into areas you cant clean out, and eventually it will get a bite somewhere. I spent almost a year under a 65 galaxie my neighbor gave me- you talk about rusty...its the biggest reason I'm so paranoid about rust. heres my 'favorite' before pic, and a after pic

TTU4.6

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(ford4v429 @ February 19, 2006, 10:15 PM) Quoted post</div><div class='quotemain'>
all the sheetmetal is galvanized and after welding the car is dipped in an epoxy primer of sorts from the look of it...these days most new cars wont show any rust for at least 5 years, maybe 10. I'd worry about that flap in front of rear wheel more than anything- fender flange might rust too, but thats a easy to replace part, the rocker/wheelhouse...nothanks.

salt can be cruel though as it gets into areas you cant clean out, and eventually it will get a bite somewhere. I spent almost a year under a 65 galaxie my neighbor gave me- you talk about rusty...its the biggest reason I'm so paranoid about rust. heres my 'favorite' before pic, and a after pic
[/b][/quote]




I take it you live up north. I live in texas and the only reason I thought to ask is because we got a little frezzing rain and the DOT went crazy with the salt here. Salt sucks.

ford4v429

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(TTU4.6 @ February 20, 2006, 12:02 AM) Quoted post</div><div class='quotemain'>
I take it you live up north. I live in texas and the only reason I thought to ask is because we got a little frezzing rain and the DOT went crazy with the salt here. Salt sucks.
[/b][/quote]

yeah- if salt is not 'normal' I would not drive in it at all until a good rain came and washed it away if possible- around here(ohio) its 1/4 of the year, and I just couldnt go that long without a drive [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/smile.gif[/img]

I'm not driving in wet/saltspray, but dry days after a rain even if theres a little salt dust on the roads, I'm wasting gas just for the fun of it...not quite 900 miles on it yet, but still a very fun car to drive(I kinda think it always will be). after a few rains wash away the salt, I drove it in the rain once too...salt does suck- once driven in saltspray, theres no way to ever get it all out...even the dusty salt is bad as it still gets everywhere when you wash it- but I tend to really flood a lot of water up into any drains to tray and flush as much as possible. I'm hoping the way I shot paint inside the pinchwelds, that salt wont have any crevices (a LOT less at a minimum) to get into that cant be flushed away. I'll let ya know in about 10-15 years [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/smile.gif[/img]

TTU4.6

Has anyones 05-06 stang started to rust? Just wondering.

ford4v429

Man did I screw up using POR15 over painted surfaces...that stuff will not come off of steel, but on paint- it peels off on its own...Ive got a lot of rework to do. I shoulda just used the 'paint' I had in the garage, tried getting something 'better' and shoulda known better...POR aint paint, and it wont stick. I did a lot of areas with just the bedliner, and it looks good, but anyplace I put por15 first, its peeling already.
areas where I'd shot it between panels should still be fine, as it filled/nowhere to go, but bottom 'floor' areas are probably curling back...gonna need to get compressed air and blow thru to get any out that might clog a drain, and redo with real paint. Embarassing- yes, but thought I'd better forewarn anyone that might be thinking POR is bulletproof over anything...it works great over treated steel, but forget it over paint.
Ive got a gallon of 'sherwin williams maintenance coating' black paint I used on some other stuff, cheeper than por, and its really paint. guess Ill save the por for the rear axle, but everything else is just getting paint from now on.

DUH [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/headscratch.gif[/img]

karman

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(ford4v429 @ February 22, 2006, 9:54 PM) Quoted post</div><div class='quotemain'>
Man did I screw up using POR15 over painted surfaces...that stuff will not come off of steel, but on paint- it peels off on its own...Ive got a lot of rework to do. I shoulda just used the 'paint' I had in the garage, tried getting something 'better' and shoulda known better...POR aint paint, and it wont stick. I did a lot of areas with just the bedliner, and it looks good, but anyplace I put por15 first, its peeling already.
areas where I'd shot it between panels should still be fine, as it filled/nowhere to go, but bottom 'floor' areas are probably curling back...gonna need to get compressed air and blow thru to get any out that might clog a drain, and redo with real paint. Embarassing- yes, but thought I'd better forewarn anyone that might be thinking POR is bulletproof over anything...it works great over treated steel, but forget it over paint.
Ive got a gallon of 'sherwin williams maintenance coating' black paint I used on some other stuff, cheeper than por, and its really paint. guess Ill save the por for the rear axle, but everything else is just getting paint from now on.

DUH [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/headscratch.gif[/img]
[/b][/quote]

POR works best on a suface that is totally surface rusted, as you now know. You are almost better off waiting until you have a light coat of rust on an unpainted suface before applying it, then it is bulletproof. POR, I believe, stands for " Paint Over Rust" . [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/icon_mrgreen.gif[/img]

ford4v429

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(karman @ February 22, 2006, 10:08 PM) Quoted post</div><div class='quotemain'>
POR works best on a suface that is totally surface rusted, as you now know. You are almost better off waiting until you have a light coat of rust on an unpainted suface before applying it, then it is bulletproof. POR, I believe, stands for " Paint Over Rust" . [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/icon_mrgreen.gif[/img]
[/b][/quote]

yep- over treated rust it takes a grinder to remove it... POR also works on clean steel very well too- but you got to etch it first...I used several quarts on my 65 galaxie frame- mostly new steel, but front clip and rear crossmember are old- it worked great on there...ground the underside of floorpan down to bare metal too, and it did fine there. this was first time I put it over paint, and it was definitely a mistake.
I'm pretty impressed with the rollon bedliner stuff though- its really easy to build any thickness you want, and sticks like paint [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/smile.gif[/img]

ford4v429

bump

Fastrack

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(ford4v429 @ May 2, 2006, 7:09 PM) Quoted post</div><div class='quotemain'>
bump
[/b][/quote]


Hey ford4v429, As galaxie said POR15 is a mess to work with, but since I'm planning to keep my car. I think I'm gonna bite the bullet and order it.

But what should I order?

Is the main product POR-15 enough? Do I need the Blackcote or the Chassiscoat?

I'm planning to paint the rear axle, and surrounding bare metal.

I'm going to order the metal ready product as well.

ford4v429

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Fastrack @ May 2, 2006, 9:45 PM) Quoted post</div><div class='quotemain'>
Hey ford4v429, As galaxie said POR15 is a mess to work with, but since I'm planning to keep my car. I think I'm gonna bite the bullet and order it.

But what should I order?

Is the main product POR-15 enough? Do I need the Blackcote or the Chassiscoat?

I'm planning to paint the rear axle, and surrounding bare metal.

I'm going to order the metal ready product as well.
[/b][/quote]
I did the new frame under the 65 gal with por, then used the chassisblack to dull it down- its way too shiny...for anything already painted, the chassis stuff covers too really well and sticks- unlike POR which only sticks to steel (and skin). I really screwed up on the mustang using the POR over paint- it came off like tape...had to redo. DOH!

watch those holes in front of your rear tires- I still think thats a planned obsolescence thing from the factory...

if you want to see some REAL rust- heres the old gals saga:
http://www.hometown.aol.com/ford4v429/gal1.html

Fastrack

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(ford4v429 @ May 3, 2006, 5:06 PM) Quoted post</div><div class='quotemain'>
I did the new frame under the 65 gal with por, then used the chassisblack to dull it down- its way too shiny...for anything already painted, the chassis stuff covers too really well and sticks- unlike POR which only sticks to steel (and skin). I really screwed up on the mustang using the POR over paint- it came off like tape...had to redo. DOH!

watch those holes in front of your rear tires- I still think thats a planned obsolescence thing from the factory...

if you want to see some REAL rust- heres the old gals saga:
http://www.hometown.aol.com/ford4v429/gal1.html
[/b][/quote]

I'll check the link you posted, looks like a good read! I'm planning to check out the seams like you found. So your saying I don't really need the Chassiscoat??

What size can do you think I'd need to do the rear axle and other pieces?

Your tutorial has been a great help, I'm planning to do this when I have my mufflers off (Before installing the FFRP's)

ford4v429

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Fastrack @ May 3, 2006, 5:34 PM) Quoted post</div><div class='quotemain'>
I'll check the link you posted, looks like a good read! I'm planning to check out the seams like you found. So your saying I don't really need the Chassiscoat??

What size can do you think I'd need to do the rear axle and other pieces?

Your tutorial has been a great help, I'm planning to do this when I have my mufflers off (Before installing the FFRP's)
[/b][/quote]

what I found with por is get the tiny cans- I dont remove lids anymore either- get some clear tubing from hdw store, find phillips screwdriver a tad smaller, punch 2 holes thru lid- loop tubing thru holes- when you need paint, pull one end out, tip can pour out tubing into paint tray- small amounts...as soon as moisture in the air hits it, its gonna gell up. I ruined my first can completely(quart) by taking off the lid and brushing from the can- within about 15 minutes it started to thicken, put lid on, it was solid next day. our humidity here gets bad in summer, and its moisture activated. using the tubing, my last can is still good a year later.

as far as chassiscoat, its up to you- POR will bleach out in time if sun hits it, but on underside, should be ok...I personally think the semigloss chassisblack looks better, and its UV stable, up to you. I used rollon bedliner, and really like that stuff a lot too- nice and thick, medium gloss, but not shiny...

Glenn

Thanks for the tips