Tips for getting Stang up on all 4's?
#1
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Tips for getting Stang up on all 4's?
I just wanted to see if anyone had some good tips for lifting their Stang up on all fours. I've done the front and rear at separate times, but never all four at once. I was thinking of starting from the front and doing the rear second, but had heard it was not a good idea to lift from the rear diff. Thoughts, tips, etc.? Thanks in advance everyone.
BTW....the reason I ask, is because I think I'm going to go ahead and paint my calipers.
BTW....the reason I ask, is because I think I'm going to go ahead and paint my calipers.
#2
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I just wanted to see if anyone had some good tips for lifting their Stang up on all fours. I've done the front and rear at separate times, but never all four at once. I was thinking of starting from the front and doing the rear second, but had heard it was not a good idea to lift from the rear diff. Thoughts, tips, etc.? Thanks in advance everyone.
BTW....the reason I ask, is because I think I'm going to go ahead and paint my calipers.
BTW....the reason I ask, is because I think I'm going to go ahead and paint my calipers.
Tim
#3
I just wanted to see if anyone had some good tips for lifting their Stang up on all fours. I've done the front and rear at separate times, but never all four at once. I was thinking of starting from the front and doing the rear second, but had heard it was not a good idea to lift from the rear diff. Thoughts, tips, etc.? Thanks in advance everyone.
BTW....the reason I ask, is because I think I'm going to go ahead and paint my calipers.
BTW....the reason I ask, is because I think I'm going to go ahead and paint my calipers.
#4
I've lifted mine off the rear diff a few times. I just put a wood block on my jack and lift on the cast part of the housing being very careful not to contact the diff cover. Just do it carefully and it can be done.
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So, if I'm not going to lift it from the rear diff, is my only other option to use a hydraulic lift? In other words, would it put too much torsion on the chassis if I lift the front and then do the back one side at a time? Thanks everyone!
Hmm, or maybe I'll just split the paint into two equal containers and do the front one day and the rear the next.
Hmm, or maybe I'll just split the paint into two equal containers and do the front one day and the rear the next.
Last edited by UMich97; 3/22/10 at 04:53 PM.
#9
The problem is that there are only 2 lift points in the rear other than off the diff, so you can't easily / safely lift in the rear and place a jack stand on the same point. It's not bad lifting from the diff, just do it carefully with a block of wood and don't have it on the diff cover, that's all.
#12
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Do any of you guys pull it up ramps to get it most of the way up, toss a jack to take weight off ramps and then place on stands? I have the issue of just getting a jack under the front of the car, of course the ramps need boards to flatten out the incline as well.
I need to swap wheels & midpipe, plus an oil change so would rather get it all done at once.
I need to swap wheels & midpipe, plus an oil change so would rather get it all done at once.
#13
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The problem is that there are only 2 lift points in the rear other than off the diff, so you can't easily / safely lift in the rear and place a jack stand on the same point. It's not bad lifting from the diff, just do it carefully with a block of wood and don't have it on the diff cover, that's all.
#14
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Do any of you guys pull it up ramps to get it most of the way up, toss a jack to take weight off ramps and then place on stands? I have the issue of just getting a jack under the front of the car, of course the ramps need boards to flatten out the incline as well.
I need to swap wheels & midpipe, plus an oil change so would rather get it all done at once.
I need to swap wheels & midpipe, plus an oil change so would rather get it all done at once.
Boards first, there's instructions around the net for bolting (highly recommend countersinking the bolts) a stack of 2x8s or 2x10s to make your own wood ramps. Use your thinker and you can custom make it to work for your application. Make sure to lay the boards flat and they'll support anything you can drive.
Somepeople have even made a ramp with a series of 4x8 plywood sheets with a cutout in the middle: smooth drive up and you can roll right under the car. Wish I had the garage space to store a contraption like that though, and with the price of plywood these days, that's not an insignificant investment.
#15
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Boards first, there's instructions around the net for bolting (highly recommend countersinking the bolts) a stack of 2x8s or 2x10s to make your own wood ramps. Use your thinker and you can custom make it to work for your application. Make sure to lay the boards flat and they'll support anything you can drive.
Somepeople have even made a ramp with a series of 4x8 plywood sheets with a cutout in the middle: smooth drive up and you can roll right under the car. Wish I had the garage space to store a contraption like that though, and with the price of plywood these days, that's not an insignificant investment.
Somepeople have even made a ramp with a series of 4x8 plywood sheets with a cutout in the middle: smooth drive up and you can roll right under the car. Wish I had the garage space to store a contraption like that though, and with the price of plywood these days, that's not an insignificant investment.
Flattening out the incline is not a biggie, as long as keep it tight I can get cars past the wood and on to the plastic ramps themselves.
I'm just wondering if that is an easier first step than going straight for the jack... right now I basically have to drive the car on a board just to get the jack under it.
#16
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Flattening out the incline is not a biggie, as long as keep it tight I can get cars past the wood and on to the plastic ramps themselves.
I'm just wondering if that is an easier first step than going straight for the jack... right now I basically have to drive the car on a board just to get the jack under it.
I'm just wondering if that is an easier first step than going straight for the jack... right now I basically have to drive the car on a board just to get the jack under it.
#17
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True.
It's lowered on FRPP's, and had a 26" diameter front tire on it, new set is much taller so I might have less issues with the jack.
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#20
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They've always worked for me, unless I need the axle free to move, say for working on suspension components. That means jacking from the differential. Block of wood, braced across the bottom of the differential nowhere near the diff. cover.