I just wanted to see if anyone had some good tips for lifting their Stang up on all fours. I've done the front and rear at separate times, but never all four at once. I was thinking of starting from the front and doing the rear second, but had heard it was not a good idea to lift from the rear diff. Thoughts, tips, etc.? Thanks in advance everyone.

BTW....the reason I ask, is because I think I'm going to go ahead and paint my calipers.

 

I did the same thing to mine when I painted my calipers. I started with the front, jacked it up in the middle by the K member and placed jack stands at the factory jack points. In the back I picked it up my the differential and did the same with the jack stands in the rear. Just be careful of the diff cover, don't let the jack place any weight/stress on the cover and it'll be fine.

Tim

 

Hydraulic lift?

 

I've lifted mine off the rear diff a few times. I just put a wood block on my jack and lift on the cast part of the housing being very careful not to contact the diff cover. Just do it carefully and it can be done.

 

Ha, I was about to say the same thing!


Jack and jack stands...just be careful. Make sure all the stands are at the same height level, make sure you're using proper lift points, etc.

 

So, if I'm not going to lift it from the rear diff, is my only other option to use a hydraulic lift? In other words, would it put too much torsion on the chassis if I lift the front and then do the back one side at a time? Thanks everyone!

Hmm, or maybe I'll just split the paint into two equal containers and do the front one day and the rear the next.

 

This worked for me.

 

That would be great....unfortunately, not in the budget right now.

 

The problem is that there are only 2 lift points in the rear other than off the diff, so you can't easily / safely lift in the rear and place a jack stand on the same point. It's not bad lifting from the diff, just do it carefully with a block of wood and don't have it on the diff cover, that's all.

 

??

 

That would work, just got to be REALLY fast!

Tim

 

Do any of you guys pull it up ramps to get it most of the way up, toss a jack to take weight off ramps and then place on stands? I have the issue of just getting a jack under the front of the car, of course the ramps need boards to flatten out the incline as well.

I need to swap wheels & midpipe, plus an oil change so would rather get it all done at once.

 

There's more than one jack point per side at the rear of the car. The axle housings almost seem to be made for jack stands.

 

Boards first, there's instructions around the net for bolting (highly recommend countersinking the bolts) a stack of 2x8s or 2x10s to make your own wood ramps. Use your thinker and you can custom make it to work for your application. Make sure to lay the boards flat and they'll support anything you can drive.

Somepeople have even made a ramp with a series of 4x8 plywood sheets with a cutout in the middle: smooth drive up and you can roll right under the car. Wish I had the garage space to store a contraption like that though, and with the price of plywood these days, that's not an insignificant investment.

 

Flattening out the incline is not a biggie, as long as keep it tight I can get cars past the wood and on to the plastic ramps themselves.

I'm just wondering if that is an easier first step than going straight for the jack... right now I basically have to drive the car on a board just to get the jack under it.

 

Well if you're lowered, that's really that. Boards should work for that. I don't know why you'd use the plastic ramps between boards and the jack though, seems like an extra step that you wouldn't need if you can get the jack in with just the boards.

 

True.

It's lowered on FRPP's, and had a 26" diameter front tire on it, new set is much taller so I might have less issues with the jack.

 

Post pics once you get it done

 

Well that's what I always thought... and have done for years on older vehicles. What's wrong with using the axle housing for jack stands? Are the tubes going to collapse or something?

 

They've always worked for me, unless I need the axle free to move, say for working on suspension components. That means jacking from the differential. Block of wood, braced across the bottom of the differential nowhere near the diff. cover.