The sounds and smells of a new GT???
If the car is parked, and the clutch is pulled in, the engine idles fine. If I let the clutch out, I will hear a buzzing/clicking (transmission).
Also I find that if I lug the engine in 2nd gear, it sounds like an amplified version of the gearbox sound. It doesn't sound like marbles rattling, just a lot of buzzing which is kind of weird.
The 4.6 mod V8s are noisy clicky/ticking engines. This is my first TR-3650 but from what everyone else has said for the 01-up 3650, it's a notchy and noisy gearbox.
Yes, I'm just not sure why the transmission would make these noises when the engine is being bogged down. I would expect noises from the engine, spark knock, chugging, etc. But the tranny? that's just wierd. I never understood it. I guess it's the syncros or something.
I REALLY like the GTAs. Very subtle and not too different than stock at lower RPMs, but they come alive at about 3000 - especially at WOT. No drone at all.
I had rented a Hertz Shelby and liked the sound.
Did you wind up with the Fanblades? I think it was you who had posted trying to make a decision.
I had rented a Hertz Shelby and liked the sound.
Did you wind up with the Fanblades? I think it was you who had posted trying to make a decision.
I did get the Fanblades! I love them, they look great ona lowered ride! I hope to purchase a camera and take some pics this weekend, we'll see!
Also, thanks for the input everyone it sounds like the noisess are normal, the smells are mostly normal, and one of our members likes to huff fumes!
life is good w/ 320 tq!!!!!
Lugging is caused by the car being in too high a gear for the speed at which you are traveling. As a result, the engines vibrations are amplified and sent straight down the driveline and to a certain degree into the passenger cabin. This happens with ANY standard transmission vehicle be it a car, truck etc. Lugging like this isn't a good idea for many reasons, but the one that sticks in my mind is that if you have to go and you're in way too high a gear, you're getting no accelleration at all until it's probably too late. Having the car in 4th gear under 1,000 rpm is nothing like driving in 1st at 1,000 RPM. It's basically the difference between going and not going when you need to. If the car is exhibiting the vibrations and sounds caused by lugging, you're in the wrong gear.
There is some slop built into these drivelines. All Mustangs have it. If you were to jack up the car while it wasn't running and in gear, you could take the rear wheel and move it back and forth probably about 2 inches or so. It's pretty normal. Your driving technique will highlight this play if you're timing is bad. I've noticed and stated before on here that it is much more difficult to control when the car is cold, they just seem to buck more when first started. There are adjustments you can make in your technique to limit that though. It just takes practice. Avoid the bucking, it's not good for the car not to mention how it makes you look to people who may see you driving.
There is some slop built into these drivelines. All Mustangs have it. If you were to jack up the car while it wasn't running and in gear, you could take the rear wheel and move it back and forth probably about 2 inches or so. It's pretty normal. Your driving technique will highlight this play if you're timing is bad. I've noticed and stated before on here that it is much more difficult to control when the car is cold, they just seem to buck more when first started. There are adjustments you can make in your technique to limit that though. It just takes practice. Avoid the bucking, it's not good for the car not to mention how it makes you look to people who may see you driving.
Lugging is caused by the car being in too high a gear for the speed at which you are traveling. As a result, the engines vibrations are amplified and sent straight down the driveline and to a certain degree into the passenger cabin. This happens with ANY standard transmission vehicle be it a car, truck etc. Lugging like this isn't a good idea for many reasons, but the one that sticks in my mind is that if you have to go and you're in way too high a gear, you're getting no accelleration at all until it's probably too late. Having the car in 4th gear under 1,000 rpm is nothing like driving in 1st at 1,000 RPM. It's basically the difference between going and not going when you need to. If the car is exhibiting the vibrations and sounds caused by lugging, you're in the wrong gear.
Most old people vehicles are automatics though; like a Lincoln town car or a full-sized Buick. An auto trans will down shift to a more appropriate gear and keep the lugging at a minimum.
But if you're slowing to down to 15 mph and trying to accelerate in 4th or 5th gear in a manual trans without downshifting, that's definitely not good for the engine.
But if you're slowing to down to 15 mph and trying to accelerate in 4th or 5th gear in a manual trans without downshifting, that's definitely not good for the engine.
Well, if one's doing that in the first place, then I would argue one has no clue how to drive a standard.
Most old people vehicles are automatics though; like a Lincoln town car or a full-sized Buick. An auto trans will down shift to a more appropriate gear and keep the lugging at a minimum.
But if you're slowing to down to 15 mph and trying to accelerate in 4th or 5th gear in a manual trans without downshifting, that's definitely not good for the engine.
But if you're slowing to down to 15 mph and trying to accelerate in 4th or 5th gear in a manual trans without downshifting, that's definitely not good for the engine.
Well, the smells are waning, and I am going to chalk the racket up to a noisy transmission and drivetrain and being out of practice clicking the gears.
I haven't regularly driven a 5 speed in years, and I've never driven a rear drive manual, much less one with this kind of power...
I haven't regularly driven a 5 speed in years, and I've never driven a rear drive manual, much less one with this kind of power...
The smells are just the preservatives and mould release agents from all the plastic/rubber under the hood. The aluminum engine is not painted... You also have to wait for the exhaust to break in and for all the moving parts in the drivetrain to setup. It will sound different after 1200-1500 miles or so. The drivetrain is very heavy duty stuff(a new tundra wishes it had a real rear axle, oh well, maybe next decade) so it will sound a little 'sloppy' if you chug the engine. The hydraulic clutch takes a bit of getting used to, as with a cable clutch your foot over time can detect the spring tension at the engagement point. Its pretty hard to stall out, I leave the clutch out in first sometimes with my left foot on the floor coming to an all but legal stop for a split second(under 1mph)and easing the throttle as I go around the corner(say in a parking lot). You'll get the hang of it. My brother jumped in it the other day from his normal 01 Bullitt sled and was over-revving the shift points every time for a few minutes. He said '****' on every shift for about 20 minutes. Its funny we have always been identical drivers(we can run the same car and get within .05 every time in the 1/4) and was frustrated I kept squeaking the tires in 3rd every time and he couldnt.
The 3650 series(forget the new name) is tough but noisy(as most 'traditional' rwd manuals are vettes, vipers, mustangs, ect). So you will hear throwout bearing 'whirr' witht he clutch out in neutral at a light and some whining in gear. The engine will also sound different when broken in so don't sweat it sounding like there is tiny knock or tick somewhere for the first couple thousand-it will change a few times. After a while the only thing you will notice is that is always seems to smell like burnt rubber when you get out....
The 3650 series(forget the new name) is tough but noisy(as most 'traditional' rwd manuals are vettes, vipers, mustangs, ect). So you will hear throwout bearing 'whirr' witht he clutch out in neutral at a light and some whining in gear. The engine will also sound different when broken in so don't sweat it sounding like there is tiny knock or tick somewhere for the first couple thousand-it will change a few times. After a while the only thing you will notice is that is always seems to smell like burnt rubber when you get out....
Some of the clanks and bangs are driveline lash. Your Eclipse was front wheel drive, and had basically no driveshaft, and no differential. The Mustang has a 2 piece driveshaft to the rear wheels, plus a rear gear differential. All of these parts have a small amount of play in them, and together you get a medium amount of play. Combine all these and the play in the driveline will clunk a bit when shifting sometimes.
To reduce the play, you could try a one piece driveshaft. Also an aftermarket tune will help with the shifting by making the throttle more predictable and easy to match gas/clutch/shifter.
To reduce the play, you could try a one piece driveshaft. Also an aftermarket tune will help with the shifting by making the throttle more predictable and easy to match gas/clutch/shifter.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Rando
2010-2014 Mustang
8
Aug 25, 2021 11:12 AM
Rando
2010-2014 Mustang
15
Sep 30, 2015 12:28 PM




. So what. Can I come smell your engine?
