Need brakes, may as well upgrade
Need brakes, may as well upgrade
I am doing pads and rotors and oem parts are quite pricey, so I figured I would shop around.
Whats the word on HAWK HPS brake pads? ($171.98 for front and rear)
Whats the word on EBC 3GD Rotors? ($290 front and $213 rear)
They are what Steeda are offering.
Whats the word on HAWK HPS brake pads? ($171.98 for front and rear)
Whats the word on EBC 3GD Rotors? ($290 front and $213 rear)
They are what Steeda are offering.
I went with the Hawk HPS along with Power Slot Rotors. I belive everyhing cost me $470.00 for all 4 from Tire Rack (friend gets a discount). had them about 1000 miles and so far happy with the look & stopping power over the OEM rotors...
I can give you some input on EBC, I have been using EBC USR rotors and Yellow pads and been happy with this combo. They stop great and no additional noise or dust compared to OE brakes.
The EBC 3GD rotors are noisy just driving around not just when applying the brakes. Seems to be caused by the dimples. The EBC Red pads are great for low dust but when cold don't seem to have the same bite as when they're hot.
The EBC 3GD rotors are noisy just driving around not just when applying the brakes. Seems to be caused by the dimples. The EBC Red pads are great for low dust but when cold don't seem to have the same bite as when they're hot.
I can give you some input on EBC, I have been using EBC USR rotors and Yellow pads and been happy with this combo. They stop great and no additional noise or dust compared to OE brakes.
The EBC 3GD rotors are noisy just driving around not just when applying the brakes. Seems to be caused by the dimples. The EBC Red pads are great for low dust but when cold don't seem to have the same bite as when they're hot.
The EBC 3GD rotors are noisy just driving around not just when applying the brakes. Seems to be caused by the dimples. The EBC Red pads are great for low dust but when cold don't seem to have the same bite as when they're hot.
Dont forget to do a fluid flush as well, brake fluid is hygroscopic and gets contaminated over time with debris - since the proper method for retracting the rotors involves opening the bleeders and compressing the pistons (well winding the rears back into the caliper) your going to be losing some fluid that will have to be replaced anyways - might as well flush everything.
Comparatively pricey, but it makes changing the fluid extremely easy since you know its flushed when the fluid runs smurf blue

Also make sure you clean the hub surface before installing your rotors as any uneven build-up on the hub surface will prevent the new rotors from sitting flat on the hub and can create the impression that the rotors are warped.
And dont forget to bed the brakes - Hawks bedding process can be tedious but the results are night and day.
and also dont forget to use a torque wrench to tighten the lugs and after bedding the brakes check the torque again.
Comparatively pricey, but it makes changing the fluid extremely easy since you know its flushed when the fluid runs smurf blue

Also make sure you clean the hub surface before installing your rotors as any uneven build-up on the hub surface will prevent the new rotors from sitting flat on the hub and can create the impression that the rotors are warped.
And dont forget to bed the brakes - Hawks bedding process can be tedious but the results are night and day.
and also dont forget to use a torque wrench to tighten the lugs and after bedding the brakes check the torque again.
I am doing pads and rotors and oem parts are quite pricey, so I figured I would shop around.
Whats the word on HAWK HPS brake pads? ($171.98 for front and rear)
Whats the word on EBC 3GD Rotors? ($290 front and $213 rear)
They are what Steeda are offering.
Whats the word on HAWK HPS brake pads? ($171.98 for front and rear)
Whats the word on EBC 3GD Rotors? ($290 front and $213 rear)
They are what Steeda are offering.
http://www.sdmustangaccessories.com/Brakes_c_39.html
It included free pads.
LJS
Dont forget to do a fluid flush as well, brake fluid is hygroscopic and gets contaminated over time with debris - since the proper method for retracting the rotors involves opening the bleeders and compressing the pistons (well winding the rears back into the caliper) your going to be losing some fluid that will have to be replaced anyways - might as well flush everything.
Comparatively pricey, but it makes changing the fluid extremely easy since you know its flushed when the fluid runs smurf blue

Also make sure you clean the hub surface before installing your rotors as any uneven build-up on the hub surface will prevent the new rotors from sitting flat on the hub and can create the impression that the rotors are warped.
And dont forget to bed the brakes - Hawks bedding process can be tedious but the results are night and day.
and also dont forget to use a torque wrench to tighten the lugs and after bedding the brakes check the torque again.
Comparatively pricey, but it makes changing the fluid extremely easy since you know its flushed when the fluid runs smurf blue

Also make sure you clean the hub surface before installing your rotors as any uneven build-up on the hub surface will prevent the new rotors from sitting flat on the hub and can create the impression that the rotors are warped.
And dont forget to bed the brakes - Hawks bedding process can be tedious but the results are night and day.
and also dont forget to use a torque wrench to tighten the lugs and after bedding the brakes check the torque again.
If you have 18" wheels you can upgrade to the 2011+ sized rotors. All you need is the 2011+ front brackets, rotors, and pads.. which you're buying the latter two anyway. They use the same calipers as the 05-10's, so you can reuse them.
If I didn't go with a Brembo setup, this is the direction I would of went.
If I didn't go with a Brembo setup, this is the direction I would of went.
Now this may be a case of YMMV, but Hawk reccomends it (perhaps as a form of general instruction for their brakes)
http://www.hawkperformance.com/performance/hps.php
I put a set of HPS pads on a GT and had to bed them, otherwise when the brakes were cool they didn't grab very well at all. After bedding them they performed much better.
Now this may be a case of YMMV, but Hawk reccomends it (perhaps as a form of general instruction for their brakes)
http://www.hawkperformance.com/performance/hps.php
Now this may be a case of YMMV, but Hawk reccomends it (perhaps as a form of general instruction for their brakes)
http://www.hawkperformance.com/performance/hps.php
Well, for the amount of time it takes for the bed in procedure, I will probably do it. Thanks for the link.
I just purchased this kit, it works nicely. I couldn't afford new calipers, so this was the next best thing.
http://www.brenspeed.com/86-330-01414.html
http://www.brenspeed.com/86-330-01414.html
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