Why does it say v6 member right under my name and profile pic

 

wow yeah $1,500 is a great deal, almost free! you can put up with a few issues for that price, for sure

just FYI, there is no way it is close to 400 horsepower, that number probably came from someone adding up all the marketing claims for the modifications . . . realistically it is probably closer to 300 at the rear wheels or maybe 350 max at the crankshaft

I think the site has a way of "rating" members based on the number of posts and the amount of time they have been a member, and that is where that comes from; it has nothing to do with your car

 

The guy I bought it from said it had 360 horsepower and 380 torque I've never has it....t checked out

 

He had alot of mods done and dyno tuned... I'm not sure

 

Various posts here and elsewhere, and none of them escaped issues. Some would run funny, some would crack, some would... just various issues happened with them others. And you can't lie on the internet, right? Probably maybe people playing too much with things and messed their situations up, but still, sorta stuck with me ever since I was investigating things for my first spark plug swap. ALL THE RESEARCHING...

I was really dreading doing it, but it wound up bein' fine. Just the one extraction on the last freakin' one I did. #8. Awful crunching noises. But at the end of it I just found that for the stock application, and proper procedure (namely when putting them in, do the Nickel Anti Seize on the shroud), the one pieces are fine and without concern once you get the first ones back out. If you apply the NAS, it's never a problem again. Just a thin layer and all good.

... although I do wonder if at some point if there's gonna be a buildup of too much NAS and that present a problem down the road... but I'll see if I get that far. I may take some sort of lint free situation and try to wipe off the tunnel next change, if the heads don't come off before then...

If it's not stock, then sure, probably need to move on to a better for that situation spark plug. But for stock, I'm all about the originals. Less guesswork when stuff happens that way too. But that's me. Y'all do what y'all wanna/needa do and that'll be fine!

I just hope they work for you. Honest. I didn't wanna take that risk, so the originals are back in there. And twice now. So I have proof the NAS works and that'll never be a problem again.

/Another thought... every so often, just turn them out a couple turns, then turn them back in. The problem is basically carbon weld, as soot from the burning gasoline is being forced into the cavity and swedging the stuff in there, making it effectively a 'press fit' situation. There's not an insignificant amount of pressure in there y'know. So yeah. Like over shimming the plugs after time. Turn them out a little should break it up, and it'll get out the exhaust... ostensibly. Or seafoam the thing every 20K... and even then... Just easier to put NAS in the cavity instead and be done with it.

 

Being that my car is not stock, but rather F/I.. JDM engineering recommends changing out the spark plugs every 3-5 years or every 15k miles which ever comes first, due to increased cylinder pressure from the Saleen blower. Therefore, it would appear there shouldn't be an issue with carbon building up on the electrode shields, to begin with, knowing the plugs get replaced within 5 year periods anyhow. I also do apply NAS on the electrode shields, but like yourself, I'm also concerned at some point if buildup of too much NAS may form and end up presenting a problem down the road? What I also can't stand about the OEM Motorcraft and Autolite HT0 plugs is they take a special gapping tool thanks to the design of the ground strap which unfortunately requires re-gapping due once again from running a F/I application. For me personally, I think it's more of an inconvenience rather than concern over the possible risk of plugs breaking due from carbon build up. But other than that, I have nothing negative to say about the Autolite HT0 spark plugs despite the dreaded 2 piece design as they have performed very well to say the very least. At any rate, I have plenty of time before having to make a decision on whether to stay with the current Autolite HT0 spark plugs or make the switch over to either Brisk Racing or Accel one-piece design plugs

 

Yeah, for a non-stock setup the OEM two piece isn't the way to go, I agree. Gappage and range become things to worry about for sure. Don't much envy ya on that front, but that's me the 'stock is good' guy. Hope you figure out a great choice on the alternate pluggage!

 

Actually, the only issue I have other than for the dreaded 2-piece design, is the gapping/range issues due from the design of the ground strap. Other than that, the Autolite HT0 spark plugs are a one degree colder range spark plug designed exclusively for heavily modified or F/I applications. At any rate, the Brisk Racing and Accel one-piece design plugs have a traditional ground strap which can be gapped/adjusted using a standard gapping tool.

 

one other issue is you might need to recalibrate the pcm for the new gears when i got my programmer they programmed my programmer for the way it sits but any changes i need to contact BAMA and get them to re-write a new tune for it..my car came with 3.15 gears i thought about changing them while i had the money but as i don't race it, Hell i only put 750 miles on it in 2 years it's not worth the money i have already poured 4500 in upgrades into a driveway ornament and another 700 isn't worth it

 

I am not sure if this has already come up: did you get the tuner device? If not, I'd suggest you ask about it; even if he wants a few hundred bucks for it, that would be worth it. The tuner should have the original factory tune stored on it; which you might need in the future; and it should allow you to make other adjustments, such as tire size or rear gear ratio.

14Mustang_Drive -- don't feel like you are missing anything major with the gears; unless there is any particular reason why you want to change the rear gear ratio, the 3.15's should be fine. There is no magic in the rear gear ratio, they do not add any power, just change the way the engine RPM is matched to the speed of the vehicle.

 

Yeah the tuner cone with the car.....

 

thats what i was trying to say with the programmer he can make the adjustment for the gear ratio change. the car's pcm and speedometer are all integrated so small changes you might need to tell the car they were made so it the car came with 3.27 the pcm knows the rpm ranges and tells the transmission when to change gears if you put 3.73's in the timing of the shifting will change hence what he was saying it felt different after the change.. even changing to a k&n drop in filter can trigger an engine light.

when i got my cold air intake i had to give bama tunes the computer serial number and they re-wrote tunes for my specific upgrades including the flowmaster cat-back exhaust every little thing helps them produce a better tune for your car unless you take it in and have it dyno tuned then you know it's using everything to it's potential