Car turned off after I did a pull.
Car turned off after I did a pull.
So just before I was driving home and decided to do a quick 40 pull. I went from 2-3 and the second I pulled it out of third to slow down the battery light turned on and the engine just shut off but the lights never turned off. I rolled it into a parking lot and it started right up no dash lights or any weird noises and I just drove it home. I have no idea what that could mean, does anyone have any ideas or suggestions about what happened, what I should check/do?
Car Turned off After Pull.
So just before I was driving home and decided to do a quick 40 pull. I went from 2-3 and the second I pulled it out of third to slow down the battery light turned on and the engine just shut off but the lights never turned off. I rolled it into a parking lot and it started right up no dash lights or any weird noises and I just drove it home. I have no idea what that could mean, does anyone have any ideas or suggestions about what happened, what I should check/do?
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Man, that's scary when the motor just dies. If it happened in the middle of a busy interstate, actually quite dangerous. I'd sure like to know what happened as well. Almost sounds electrical, but even momentarily, not good if it kills the engine.
I hope someone can assist you here.
I hope someone can assist you here.
I've seen the traction control send the engine to idle and not respond to throttle inputs for a few seconds. My car would do it if cornering fast in a right hand turn prior to being retuned for the procharger. Their tune seems to have the traction control behave in a much less intrusive manner. I had a friend who said his previous '13 would do it as well, but he would have to shut the car off and restart it to get it to accelerate again.
Ok, so the thing is this: (siphon) squeeze bang blow. What'll stop that, temporarily, and then let you go on with life? Intake of air, spraying of fuel, squeezing of mixture, explody happens, expansion of gases, expulsion of gases, repeat, that's the cycle. Items involved are in this order: Intake, fuel, rotating assembly and valves, spark, exhaust system. With the ECU/PCM controlling it all. So... let's explore them.
Given the engine stopped and then restarted and went about its business... this pretty much eliminates the intake.
Fuel is my guess. Something happened with the fuel system. Drop in pressure, or water in the system, or... I dunno, but that's the one I'm thinkin'.
Rotating assembly wouldn't keep going after stopping. I'm thinking the engine would stop and stay stopped, aka seized. There's about only one way that happens at all: loss of oil pressure. Although it's entirely possible it was a drop enough to 'blip' the engine into stopping, but somehow not enough to weld things. Pickup tube issue might be the thing, or the oil pump, but I'm then worried the engine is toast and it just doesn't know it yet.
I don't really think this is it, but one must put it out there anyway.
Spark's happening. Unless it's not, but with 8 coil on packs, it's going to be a centralized issue of electrical, like a battery terminal is wonky or the ECU/PCU's connections aren't happy, maybe a loose ground... Gotta do a wiggle check, and a corrosion check. Fix whatever's not happy. If it were one or two or even three not hitting, the car'd still run. That it stopped being mad and ran again seems to point that this isn't it, but... loose stuff happens, so check it.
Exhaust would be a plugged up cat, but man, even then it'll run, just badly. Unless it's completely blocked up, and it ain't startin' again afterwards. Don't think this is it.
ECU/PCM itself could have bad inputs such as a crank sensor being loose/corroded connector that'd cause the computer to lose track of what the engine's doing. Maybe it's that simple. On the 4.6, lower right front, 'under' the A/C compressor, right at the crank. Probably not the camshaft position sensors. Anything else is probably safe mode idle, not a stoppage, but check ALL THE THINGS (connectors) to be sure. And it's even possible the crank sensor is bad, but not quite, but soon(tm)... Dunno how you check that without a scantool or something...
Finally, you have a manual, so it's entirely possible that something wonky happened as you took it out of third. I don't think this likely, but perhaps it's time to inspect your brake fluid and do a swap (as the clutch runs off the brake reservoir), or maybe the clutch is having a problem.
Ooh, maybe this: Ignition switch/wiring could be having a fun time. Check that. That'll be a real blast to do. Multimeter to the rescue.
---
Regarding the battery light coming on when the engine went off, that tracks. When the engine quits turning the alternator, the battery light will come on. The car runs on the alternator. The battery is there to start the car and run accessories when the engine's not running, not to actually run the car. Although it certainly will do so for a time, that's not the battery's job. That said, if the alternator quit temporarily during that pull, the battery would indeed pick up the slack and keep the engine running. It's just that you're about 10-20 minutes away from having a completely dead car battery if that happens.
I hope that helps in some way. Just gonna have to slog through the checks. Good luck to ya, and welcome to the forums!
Given the engine stopped and then restarted and went about its business... this pretty much eliminates the intake.
Fuel is my guess. Something happened with the fuel system. Drop in pressure, or water in the system, or... I dunno, but that's the one I'm thinkin'.
Rotating assembly wouldn't keep going after stopping. I'm thinking the engine would stop and stay stopped, aka seized. There's about only one way that happens at all: loss of oil pressure. Although it's entirely possible it was a drop enough to 'blip' the engine into stopping, but somehow not enough to weld things. Pickup tube issue might be the thing, or the oil pump, but I'm then worried the engine is toast and it just doesn't know it yet.
I don't really think this is it, but one must put it out there anyway.Spark's happening. Unless it's not, but with 8 coil on packs, it's going to be a centralized issue of electrical, like a battery terminal is wonky or the ECU/PCU's connections aren't happy, maybe a loose ground... Gotta do a wiggle check, and a corrosion check. Fix whatever's not happy. If it were one or two or even three not hitting, the car'd still run. That it stopped being mad and ran again seems to point that this isn't it, but... loose stuff happens, so check it.
Exhaust would be a plugged up cat, but man, even then it'll run, just badly. Unless it's completely blocked up, and it ain't startin' again afterwards. Don't think this is it.
ECU/PCM itself could have bad inputs such as a crank sensor being loose/corroded connector that'd cause the computer to lose track of what the engine's doing. Maybe it's that simple. On the 4.6, lower right front, 'under' the A/C compressor, right at the crank. Probably not the camshaft position sensors. Anything else is probably safe mode idle, not a stoppage, but check ALL THE THINGS (connectors) to be sure. And it's even possible the crank sensor is bad, but not quite, but soon(tm)... Dunno how you check that without a scantool or something...
Finally, you have a manual, so it's entirely possible that something wonky happened as you took it out of third. I don't think this likely, but perhaps it's time to inspect your brake fluid and do a swap (as the clutch runs off the brake reservoir), or maybe the clutch is having a problem.
Ooh, maybe this: Ignition switch/wiring could be having a fun time. Check that. That'll be a real blast to do. Multimeter to the rescue.
---
Regarding the battery light coming on when the engine went off, that tracks. When the engine quits turning the alternator, the battery light will come on. The car runs on the alternator. The battery is there to start the car and run accessories when the engine's not running, not to actually run the car. Although it certainly will do so for a time, that's not the battery's job. That said, if the alternator quit temporarily during that pull, the battery would indeed pick up the slack and keep the engine running. It's just that you're about 10-20 minutes away from having a completely dead car battery if that happens.
I hope that helps in some way. Just gonna have to slog through the checks. Good luck to ya, and welcome to the forums!
Last edited by houtex; Mar 18, 2021 at 09:58 AM. Reason: I keep thinkin' of things/rewording/correctin'...
duplicate thread: Car Turned off After Pull. - The Mustang Source - Ford Mustang Forums
I think Bert might be on the right track. This could simply be a case of operator error. From the OP's description he did a 2-3 shift then pulled out of third to slow down. Remember, in a manual transmission, engine RPM can redline in "neutral". The issue here is that he shifted into neutral too early - that is, he was approaching redline in third and when he shifted into neutral the speed of the car still pushed the engine beyond redline, at which point the rev limiter would have cut power. If his foot was still on the clutch and not quite off the accelerator, he simply ran out of gas. The perfect storm. Just a thought, I could be wrong.
Dude. Take the foot off the accelerator pedal of disgust and distain why don't you?
This isn't the politics and religion section, OP's just lookin' for help and made a mistake, double posted in two minutes, probably because they didn't see the first one hit. Wouldn't be the first time it's happened in this forum's history. Yeesh. 
This isn't the politics and religion section, OP's just lookin' for help and made a mistake, double posted in two minutes, probably because they didn't see the first one hit. Wouldn't be the first time it's happened in this forum's history. Yeesh. 
I see what you're sayin', but... everything I've seen with these computer cars is you can try your hardest to make the overrev happen, and the computer will pretty much immediately cut power to this or that cylinders to keep the revs lower than 'kill me' mode, but I ain't ever seen one shut off from it. And believe me, people try real hard to make it happen (unintentionally, but still.) Never has so far as I can tell, until Something Bad(tm) or Something Weird(R) happens. Mostly from over-reaching the system's capabilities because mods, but it's usually mechanical or they undersized the fuel pump, or the dreaded "oh dang, oil pressure."
Also, can't run outta fuel, the injectors/spark just turn off, the fuel's still there for the remainder cylinders. Only way there's no fuel there is the fuel pump has quit, which it wouldn't ordinarily (possibly interrupting due to shock of the inertial switch?
or the fuel's not getting in the pump itself...(*))
Not sayin' your scenario's impossible, but sayin it's real hard to make it possible. I'm still goin' fuel issue as my guess. For what that diatribe's worth.
/ (*) - Hay... Don't suppose you had 1/8th tank of gas in there, OP? Bet that might have done it possibly...
Also, can't run outta fuel, the injectors/spark just turn off, the fuel's still there for the remainder cylinders. Only way there's no fuel there is the fuel pump has quit, which it wouldn't ordinarily (possibly interrupting due to shock of the inertial switch?
or the fuel's not getting in the pump itself...(*))Not sayin' your scenario's impossible, but sayin it's real hard to make it possible. I'm still goin' fuel issue as my guess. For what that diatribe's worth.
/ (*) - Hay... Don't suppose you had 1/8th tank of gas in there, OP? Bet that might have done it possibly...
Last edited by houtex; Mar 19, 2021 at 09:20 PM.
..... Also, can't run outta fuel, the injectors/spark just turn off, the fuel's still there for the remainder cylinders. Only way there's no fuel there is the fuel pump has quit, which it wouldn't ordinarily (possibly interrupting due to shock of the inertial switch?
or the fuel's not getting in the pump itself...(*)
Not sayin' your scenario's impossible, but sayin it's real hard to make it possible. I'm still goin' fuel issue as my guess. For what that diatribe's worth.
/ (*) - Hay... Don't suppose you had 1/8th tank of gas in there, OP? Bet that might have done it possibly...
or the fuel's not getting in the pump itself...(*)Not sayin' your scenario's impossible, but sayin it's real hard to make it possible. I'm still goin' fuel issue as my guess. For what that diatribe's worth.
/ (*) - Hay... Don't suppose you had 1/8th tank of gas in there, OP? Bet that might have done it possibly...

John
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Yes, it does! But they don't always have time to monitor each and every thread. So in case they happen to miss it? it's always best to report it which will then bring it to their attention.


