AWmustang

It also unlocks itself if you just press the lock button.

kevinb120

I'm saying if you want to warm the car up in an unsecure location, start it with the normal key, then close the door and use another key in the outside handle barrel lock and it will stay locked.

dapmustang

So you’re saying …

IF LockByFob=True THEN

UnLockByFob=Enabled

ELSEIF LockByKey=True THEN

UnLockByFob=Disabled

ENDIF

dapmustang

I have another thought … Do you turn the ignition with one hand while holding the PATS key near with the other hand - kind of a two-hand hoop jump? If so, try a test for me … insert the dummy key while holding the PATS key near and turn the ignition on. Once the PATS key “logs in” (theft icon goes out), take the PATS key away and see if it still starts and runs.

That’s how it worked for me. But if you already do it this way, then never mind …

I like that idea - start the car with a PATS assisted dummy key. Then, at least if the car is stolen, wherever it’s first stopped is where it stays.

kevinb120

lol. Its the only way to get the doors locked and the car running without you in it. I've never tried to use the fob to unlock it when manually locked/running. Typically the fobs are disabled when the pats key is present and the car is running, but this Mustang lets you pop the trunk(to make up for skipping the $6 trunk release button perhaps??). I just use the spare key on the 5 or so days a year I leave it warming up for a long time so I never tried the fob.

Northwest GT

A multifunction key fob is a good idea, but I had to comment on one thing though. In our town, leaving your car running and unattended will get you a $100 ticket. Dey don't 'llow it round here.

ford4v429

Stoenr-
that reminded me of a new '96 contour demo my wife-to-be had long ago...I went out to warm it up for her late one night and found out the hard way on some fords the remote deactivates with ignition on...called a local repo guy who arrived about 3am with some neat little tool he slid in to hit the unlock button, as the contour had motorized locks...75 bucks and a long night...that was the only Ford we had that worked that way, the dealer said some do, some dont...but that was a long time ago.

Dapmustang-
Great idea/writeup...might just need to do this on mine too- 5 cars, three of which have fobs- PITA (literally) to put keyring in pocket, not to mention all the weight is bad for the locks- excellent idea and execution!

AWmustang

I have to have the PATS key touching the dummy key for it to work. (Or at least it has to be so close that I couldn't get 2 hands next to the ignition). I just hold the 2 keys in one hand with the cut portions and approximately 90 degrees from each other. Turn this double key configuration with the one hand and then pull the PATS key away. It will run all day like this, I've even driven it this way. Just have to be careful not to stall it.

I have tried it where i turn the key, wait for authorization and then pull the PATS key away and the dummy key will successfully start the car.

Interesting thing with the VW system. It must check multiple times. My roomate was never able to get the remote start installed. The car would turn over, run for about 2 seconds and stall. If the loop was removed it wouldn't start at all. If a key was inserted into the ignition, remote start worked just fine. Install guy couldn't figure it out and ended up refunding all the money.

dapmustang

I can say that my ’06 will allow me to lock the doors via fob with the engine running - unlike my ’00 - and it will let me unlock the doors via fob with the engine running. Yes, however, the anti-lock-yourself-out feature unlocks the doors if you lock them, and then close the door with the engine running. I have to get out, close the door, lock with fob, then I can unlock with fob.

kevinb120

Yea I tried it today and was surprised the fob worked. I am so used to Fords not doing it I never even bothered to try it until now. What do you know, the stock keys and fob seem to lock/unlock/start the car just as you would think they should. Good to know I will never need to waste 10 sec of my life dealing with keys on my Mustang.

dapmustang

With a jigsaw and some careful cutting, by following the inner brass key line you could create a removable-PATS-insert key, but I’m probably getting ridiculous now.

StangMahn

I dont like the fusion key, something about the buttons on my key...

Arrow

Okay, some people just have WAY too much freak'n time on their hands....


...but nice job anyway...

Dineau

I wa also tired on that cheap and ugly key for my mustang, the plastic is way too soft and it looks like shi....t after 2 years.

So Iwent and bought this on eb.., much better rigid plastic, nicer looking and works like a charm !

blackstang06

Is there any way a VW key could be programmed to work with the mustang? (I want a flip up style)

mfo33

has anyone tried just using the actual Ford Fusion remote fob to program it to the mustang?

ChrisM

This possibility was discussed at length in an earlier thread:

http://forums.bradbarnett.net/showth...ght=fusion+key

Short answer: won't work.

ChrisM

I ordered a new fob and two new keys (all Ford products) from eBay suppliers for this project and they finally arrived late last week. The toughest part of getting ready to build the FFMF key was trying to find someone to cut the keys! Auto parts stores and Home Depot won’t touch transponder keys. The guy at HD told me that they had instances where their electronic key cutting whizbang machine actually deprogrammed keys! So their policy is to no longer do these keys.

I finally found a “security consultant” (aka locksmith) who cut my two keys on a simple mechanical, professional machine – and the cost was only $6.00! The programming of all parts was a piece of cake – it’s all documented in the Mustang Owner’s Manual. I then followed Dave’s plans and in about 1.5 hrs I had a FFMF key.

I did make one minor design change in building my key. I went to my parts bin and found a device to fit through the hole that Ford so thoughtfully provided in the key blank. The technical term for this device is a “really teeny, tiny screw”! I marked the spot with an awl then ran the screw in a turn or so – the bottom of the case is comfortably deep enough. I then took the screw out and nipped off the first turn of the screw which shortened it just enough to fit correctly when finally inserted. I also ground a bit of the head off to make sure it was flat enough. My thought is that the screw will reinforce the fiberglass for the stress of turning the key (more on that later.) Using the screw also allowed me to mock up the finished key and actually test it in the ignition to make sure the whole device would work before locking the key up in fiberglass!

I’ve been using it for about a week now – and not carrying another key and fob. I had an early problem with the fob case wanting to pop open when the key was turned in the lock. The problem was that I hadn’t trimmed the fiberglass down far enough down into the case. The extra height was acting as a lever to separate the halves of the case when the fob was turned. Careful application of the tip of a half-round file took care of that issue.

This gizmo really works well and is a good interim solution until Ford makes a combo key available. Given my case opening issue above, it is obvious that the fob case is not designed to take the stress that turning the key applies to it. I have found that facing the buttons toward the driver and cupping the key applies less stress when using it. So we’ll just have to see how well it lasts over the long haul. And I’ve not had problem one inadvertently hitting any of the fob buttons while using the key!

Thanks again to Dave and Alanco Industries for the design and engineering on this project! A pic of my finished product appears below.