I got a '98 {Typo Corrected} mustang and it's got some kind of security issue. I took the car to a Ford dealership, and they basically told me that they can't do anything with the car. I had a new key made and it doesn't to do anything. The car hasn't started in a good bit kind of forgot about it. The original key doesn't work; security light comes on when I try either one. I'm looking for some advice as it's a good car. Looking to see where I should start looking. Should I start looking at the module or the fuses. What concerns me is if it is the module, is it better to replace it or is it better to remove it entirely? Now I'll be praying it's a fuse or a relay but what are they chances of that being the issue. Any advice on this I would greatly appreciate.

Title Enhanced
Kc Admin

 

Welcome,

Ok A Little More Info Here.

Ford Dealer Can't Help Why?? Is It a Factory Alarm Security Issue/ or Some Sort of Add On Alarm.

If it's a Pats Key Issue a New Key Would Have Had To Be Programmed To Function. How about a Picture of Your Original Key & Remote FOB To Get Started To See if it is Indeed a Pats Key and Factory Remote.

Was Issue Just One Day it Did Not Work or Did You Start Having Issues off & On??

Does Engine Turn Over at All or Turn Over & Just Not Start??

KC

 

1996 INFO

Here Are Some FORD SHOP MANUAL SECTIONS IN REGARDS TO THE PATS SYSTEM If Your Issue is Pats System You Might Gleen Some Info Here!

Section 13-11B: Anti-Theft System, Passive 1996 Mustang Workshop Manual DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION Procedure revision date: 05/18/2000

Anti-Theft System, Passive

The passive anti-theft vehicle protection system is a passive system that uses radio frequency identification technology to deter a driveaway theft. Passive means that it does not require any activity from the user.

• During each vehicle start sequence, the encoded ignition key is interrogated by the vehicle protection anti-theft electronics.
• If the key's ID code has been programmed into the system, the vehicle is capable of running.
• If the key's ID code is not programmed into the system, or if no encoded key is detected, then the vehicle is disabled from running.

The passive vehicle protection system communicates the state of the security system to the powertrain control module (PCM) (12A650) via the multiplex communications network (MCN) communication link. The PCM, based on the messages from the passive vehicle protection system, will determine if the vehicle's engine will be enabled to start.

The passive vehicle protection system differs from the anti-theft alarm system in that the passive vehicle protection system enables/disables the vehicle from starting and only operates with the ignition switch in RUN/START position. The anti-theft alarm system has perimeter protection capabilities and operates only with the ignition switch OFF. Refer to Section 13-11 for anti-theft alarm system description and operation.

Components

The vehicle protection system contains the following components:

• passive anti-theft system module
• THEFT indicator
• transceiver electronics
• powertrain control module (PCM) (12A650)
• encoded ignition key
• RH drive anti-theft alarm control mounting bracket (19A435)
• LH drive anti-theft alarm control mounting bracket
• multiplex communications network
• data link connector

The passive vehicle protection system components function as follows:

• Theft Indicator
  • The passive anti-theft vehicle protection system utilizes the same anti-theft indicator, located in the instrument cluster (10849) that the anti-theft alarm system (if equipped) uses. (Refer to 13-11A.)
  • The indicator provides system proveout and operating status to the customer or service technician.
  • The anti-theft alarm system uses the theft indicator when the ignition switch is turned OFF. The passive anti-theft vehicle protection system uses the theft indicator when the ignition switch is turned to RUN/START position. The passive vehicle protection system will activate the indicator signal as described under the following conditions when the ignition switch is turned to RUN/START position:

• THEFT Indicator ON two seconds, then OFF
  • Key Code Received/Vehicle Enabled (Programmed key)
• THEFT Indicator ON two seconds, then OFF one second, then ON continuously
  • Key Code Received/Vehicle Disabled (Assembly plant use only, less than two keys programmed)
• THEFT Indicator ON two seconds, then flash for one minute, then flash diagnostic trouble code 16 ten times
  • Key Code Received/Vehicle Enabled or Disabled (No PCM Verification)
  • If vehicle starts, powertrain control module is not working with control module
  • If vehicle does not start, Multiplex Communications Network may need service
  • You will need to go to the Symptom Chart in this Section for diagnostic assistance to isolate any communication system.
• THEFT Indicator flashes for one minute
  • No Key Code Received (Key damaged, Non-encoded key, Wiring or Transceiver concern)
• THEFT Indicator flashes for 15 minutes
  • Key Code Received/Vehicle Disabled (Key not programmed). Refer to Key Initialization Procedure in Service Procedures.

• Encoded Ignition Key
  • When the vehicle ignition switch is placed into either RUN or START, the control module initiates a key interrogation sequence. The control module starts an interrogation period by supplying both power and the carrier signal to the transceiver to energize the ignition key. After the energize period has expired, the key transmits its ID code to the transceiver module. This ignition key is much larger in size due to the electronics that are located in the head of the ignition key.
• Transceiver
  • The transceiver module is used to interface the control module to the encoded ignition key. The transceiver sends a signal to power up the encoded key and receives the ignition key data signal and sends it to the control module.
• Passive Anti-Theft System Module
  • The control module contains circuitry to interface to the vehicle electrical system, the transceiver module, the vehicle multiplex communications network and the vehicle theft indicator located in the instrument cluster. The control module uses a microprocessor to control the system functions. The control module microprocessor stores the ignition key codes in non-volatile memory. The control module can be diagnosed through the data link connector.
• Powertrain Control Module (PCM)
  • The passive vehicle protection system utilizes the engine management capabilities of the powertrain control module to enable or disable the vehicle engine. The multiplex communications network is used to send and receive messages to and from the powertrain control module. At each engine start sequence, the powertrain control module allows fuel and spark until the engine is running.
  • Within one second after engine start, the powertrain control module must receive an enable signal or the engine is disabled before the vehicle can be moved.

• Vehicle Disabling

  The passive vehicle protection system will be activated and will disable the vehicle from starting if any of the following actions occur:
  
• Damaged encoded key
  
• Unprogrammed key
  
• Non-encoded key (key has no electronics)
  
• Wiring concern
  
• Transceiver concern
  
• Control module concern
  
• Multiplex Communications Network concern

  Vehicle Enabling

  For normal vehicle protection proveout and vehicle enabling to occur, the THEFT indicator must proveout as follows:
  
• Normal operating proveout on theft indicator is two seconds: ON then OFF after the ignition switch has been turned from OFF to RUN/START position. This vehicle can be started.
• If normal two second proveout occurs and engine cranks for more than one second after ignition switch is turned to START position but fails to start, the fault is not with the passive vehicle protection system.

Spare Key Programming

NOTE: Service control modules require only one key to be programmed before allowing the vehicle to start. If a control module is changed, the technician must inform the customer to program any additional keys using the Spare Key Programming procedure detailed in the Owner Guide.





The system has capacity to store a maximum of 16 keys. After the initial key has been programmed or using any programmed key, follow the steps below:

NOTE: Encoded keys must have correct mechanical key cut for vehicle.

• Cycle ignition switch from RUN to OFF with a programmed key.
• Within 15 seconds after this cycle, insert a new encoded key into ignition switch and turn to RUN or START.
• If programming is successful, the THEFT indicator will illuminate for two seconds and the control module will enable the vehicle to start.
• Repeat until all chosen keys have been programmed, up to 16 keys total.
• If programming is not successful, the THEFT indicator will:
  • Flash for one minute if no key code is received. The key is either damaged or is a non-encoded key. (Try a new key and start procedure over again.)
  • Flash for 15 minutes if key code is received yet vehicle is disabled. The key was not programmed successfully. Start procedure over again.
• If programming is not successful, possibly the new key was not inserted within 15 seconds, all 16 key codes have been stored, or the key is a non-encoded key. If the key was not encoded or inserted within 15 seconds, repeat procedure.

Inspection and Verification

1. Verify the customer's concern by duplicating the condition.
   

VISUAL INSPECTION CHART Mechanical Electrical

• Damaged ignition lock cylinder
• Damaged encoded ignition key
• A non-encoded ignition key being used

• Open fuses: Fuse junction panel
  Fuse 15 (5A), Fuse 18 (20A)
• Loose connections
• Corroded connections
• Damaged ignition switch

1. Inspect to determine if one of the following mechanical or electrical concerns apply:
   

1. If inspection reveals an obvious concern that is readily serviced, correct the concern before continuing with Inspection and Verification.
   

1. If a concern remains after the inspection, use Rotunda New Generation Star (NGS) Tester 007-00500 or equivalent, connected to the data link connector (DLC) to retrieve continuous diagnostic trouble codes (DTCs) and to execute Self Test Diagnostics for the passive anti-theft control module as outlined.
   

1. If self test is passed and no diagnostic trouble codes (DTCs) are retrieved, go to the Symptom Chart to continue diagnostics.
   

1. If diagnostic trouble codes (DTCs) are retrieved, go to the Passive Anti-Theft System Module Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) Index to continue diagnostics.
   

1. If the passive anti-theft control module can not be accessed by the New Generation Star (NGS) Tester, go to Section 18-4 for module communication network concerns.
   

Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) Reference Chart
PASSIVE ANTI-THEFT SYSTEM MODULE DTC
Description Action to Take
U1147 Vehicle Security Status Message Missing GO to DTC U1147.
B1213 Anti-Theft Number of Programmed Keys is Below Minimum GO to DTC B1213.
B1600 Ignition Key Transponder Signal Not Received GO to DTC B1600.
B1601 Incorrect Key Code From Ignition Key Transponder GO to DTC B1601.
B1602 Invalid Format Key Code From Ignition Key Transponder GO to DTC B1602.
B1681 Transceiver Module Signal Not Received GO to DTC B1681.
Parameter Identification (PID) Chart
PASSIVE ANTI-THEFT SYSTEM PARAMETER IDENTIFICATION (PID) INDEX
Module PID Description
PATS CCNTPAT Number of Continuous DTCs On
PATS PATS IGN_PAT Ignition Switch
PATS #OFKEYS Number of Ignition Key Codes Stored
PATS ENABL_E Module State (Enable/Disable)
PATS M_KEY Master Key Present

 

Got to Thinking About My Truck This A.M. , Truck Cranked Over Fine Just Would Not Start!

It Turned Out To Be The PATS Ring. Your Question Says You Have a 96 and Your Profile Says You Have a 98?? If 98 Shop Manual Info May Differ a Bit!

The 94-97 Part is This! Looks To be Available Used Only.

https://ebay.us/m/38GRZP

The 98-02 Version is Much Cheaper!

https://ebay.us/m/gKnvfZ

 

its a 98 model I hit the button by mistake but I was thinking it could ignition switch related as I've pricing those from work since I get discount. I still order from rockauto as advance can't compete with those prices. I'm about to order a new clutch position sensor and some relays to be prepared for the small fixes. anyway I do really appreciate the help

 

Best Of Luck!

KC

 

Update! I had a little time today to mess with the mustang, and I got it cranking but not firing over. From what a friend and I have concluded that it's the PATS. I got two keys and 2 PATS antennas; one key works and the other is for looks. After trying a security reset, you know leaving the key turned to acc. we finally got it to at least try to start but no luck That starter will run all day if I wanted but it won't actually fire over. We did our fair share of digging thru wires and checking fuses but no luck on that front either. From what I gathered in other forums, it will need a tune to disable. My honest question is where I find said tune and how would I go about flashing it to the ecu. I guess what I'm asking is what's a good software or how do I flash an ecu? I know this is confusing topic and wording, but I have no idea. My issue yeah, I could pay someone else do it, but I want to learn how. I know that makes no sense, but I really just want the experience and the knowledge. So just bear with me on this and no I don't have to be the one to do this, but the challenge would be nice. As always, any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

As I Thought The 1998 System is a Bit Different Than The Earlier Style. Disregard 96 Info Due To The Initial Typo on Request!

My Advice is To Get or Borrow a Scanner Which Will Read Body Codes NOT JUST DIAG P Codes and Repair What Has Failed. Key Programming May Have To Be Done Using Special Equipment Depending on Issue If Required. Some Good Mobile Locksmiths Have The Tools. I Would Not Be Surprized if it is Simply The Immobilizer Ring as it is Fairly Common. Your 98 Uses Same Style as My HD-F150 and That Was My Issues. It Was Actually a Stretched Wire Which Was Done During an Earlier Repair Under Warranty.

As Far As Disabling The Pats I Have Seen Some GT's Done By Using a Non Pats Crown Vic PCM. But Those are Both V8's. If You Could Get The As Built Data For a 98 Mustang Which Was a V6 With No Pats You Might Be Able To Use The As-Built Data From The Vin of Such Car and I'm Unsure If Ford Offered That on The Mustnag in 98. I Do Know Some FLEET Vehicles Back in The Day Such as Police & Rentals Would Sometimes Not Have Pats as an Option But Again at This Time I'm Unsure if That Was Used.

Here is a Thread Explaining As-Built For A Later Model But Same Basic Premise! Also Talks About Forscan
https://themustangsource.com/forums/...topics-551889/

Here is The 1998 Diag Codes Which Could Possibly Pin Down Issue For Normal Repair! NOTE. Pats Column Tranciever Does Not Require Reprogramming!

KC

Supplied PDF's Are For Reference Only And Not Every Last Related Section.

If You Really Wan't To Know The In's & Outs on Your Car I Would Advise Picking Up a Complete OEM FORD Shop Manual. The General Haynes Manuals Etc. are To Vague! I Have Used This Brand in The Past And They Pretty Good!

https://ebay.us/m/G687vU

 

I'll have to check for those when I get the time. Honestly if it's possible I'd like to keep the PATS mainly to keep it as factory as possible. But I'm not mad if I have to. I do really appreciate the help. I'll let everyone know how it goes next time I mess with it.

 

The Thing With Mine Was It Was intermittent. The Wife Always Pulled The Tilt Steering Wheel Down One More Notch Than Me and That Was When It Would Fail. Took awhile To Figure it Out. When Testing Car Always Use A Known Good Key as an Unprogrammed or Incorrect Programmed Key Puts The System on Standby For awhile if Memory Serves!

KC

 

Okay now that raises a question. I know they had the PATS and a new key programmed but Ford told them they couldn't do anything with the car. Thats after getting the new key and a new PATS antenna put in. I do still have access to both keys and antennas. The new key does everything as it should minus disarming the PATS the old key doesn't even turn the ignition switch. I have tried it with both antennas, you know trying one after swapping out the antennas. Let's say the old antenna with either key. But that old key does nothing with either of the antennas.

 

Please Take a Picture of BOTH Keys Side By Side! Also Try Both Keys in the Door Do Both Open The Door or Just The Old One?

A Readable Copy of The FORD Repair Order Would BE Helpful as Well!

KC

 

Okay I'm starting to get a little mad. All shops are charging upwards of $400 to delete PATS. There are companies selling ECUs with PATS already deleted but they want even more for those. If anyone can tell me what software and where to get it I can look into doing it myself or have my buddy who understands it do it. I'm paying $600 for this car and everywhere it seems to pretty much costs more than I'm paying for the car to do this. no offence but if I wanted to spend more than the car for simple ECU flash I'd just get a haltec or something of that nature.

 

How About This! They Say They are Cost Effective!

https://stangnet.com/mustang-forums/.../#post-9424469


The code P1260 indicates that the PCM is being told not to let the engine run by the PATS system. In the 96-98 Mustangs, there is a standalone PATS module behind the dash that is the decision maker, and it tells the PCM whether or not to let the car start. If it tells the PCM not to let the car start, the PCM will throw a P1260 code, and it will disable the fuel injectors. The PATS module will also blink the theft light rapidly, to let you know that the reason the car isn't starting is the PATS anti-theft system.

PATS does not disable the starter, or the ignition on 96-98 cars. It just disables injector pulse.

The only way to disable PATS or get around it in any way (other than repairing it and properly programming 2 or more keys) is with a PCM reflash with a custom calibration. The Ford dealer can't do it, Ford IDS software can't do it, and Forscan can't do it. Tuners can do it, but not cost effectively.

We can delete PATS, and cost effectively. Usually cheaper than having one key made by a locksmith. And cheaper than a tow truck.

Best regards,
Steve Hulett
Drag Radial Performance

https://www.ebay.com/str/dragradialperformance

$149.95!

https://www.ebay.com/itm/35384729776...sAAOSwfxxh1AKe

 

Okay I may be misunderstanding something. What I want to do is remove PATS. Basically, making the ECU think that there was never a PATS system was there to begin with. IF I knew how to just mess with the wires enough it just has no wires to the actual module there for maybe cutting it out entirely? I don't know it's hard to explain. I think if I could take out the entire system by simply removing going to them?

 

I Feel The $149.95 Option is Your Best & Most Cost Effective Option.

BTMO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Be Sure & Read The Entire Ebay Listing on Link. And He States If Pats is Not The Issue You Still have a Problem!
Did Cut & Paste of Listing on Next Post!

https://redirect.viglink.com/?format...sAAOSwfxxh1AKe

You Can Not Cut Out System. The PCM Programming Has To Be Changed To Delete.

This is What The Seller is Saying

The only way to disable PATS or get around it in any way (other than repairing it and properly programming 2 or more keys) is with a PCM reflash with a custom calibration. The Ford dealer can't do it, Ford IDS software can't do it, and Forscan can't do it. Tuners can do it, but not cost effectively.

That is For All Intent & Purposes PATS DELETE.

KC

 

Cut & Paste From Listing


PATS Anti-Theft Delete Tune
A Mail-In Computer Modification Service

You are bidding on the service labor to delete the PATS system from your 1996 - 2004 Ford Mustang or Cobra computer. No parts are included, just labor. You send in your PCM, and I will modify it to delete PATS, and then send it back to you.

What is PATS?

PATS is Ford's Passive Anti-Theft System. The engine computer compares a stored passcode with the one contained in your ignition key's chip. If the two codes match, the computer will allow the vehicle to start and run. If they don't match, your car will not start. PATS keys generally have a larger, thicker head on them than non-PATS keys do. PATS can prevent your engine from running, and on some models it can prevent your engine from cranking. PATS is NOT the factory alarm system with lights and sirens.

Why would I want to delete PATS?

The PATS system works well, but in certain scenarios you might want to delete it. Perhaps your PATS system is malfunctioning, and you want to turn it off until you can get it fixed. Or, you may not want to pay the higher price for PATS keys plus programming costs. Or, perhaps you just bought a used PCM, and it won't run your car until your PATS keys are programmed to the vehicle or PATS is deleted. And finally, if you are swapping a later model engine into an older vehicle that does not have PATS, then you will need to shut off PATS or your engine won't start. If you want to add a Remote Start, this is perfect and you won't have to put a key in a hidden alarm system box that always fails over time.

What are you selling me?

I am selling the programming service (labor only) to turn off the PATS system. By bench flashing your PCM, I can turn the PATS system off permanently. The vehicle will start up and run without having to use or program special keys. It will run with any type of correctly cut key in the ignition, and no longer require a special PATS key that has a chip in it. I am NOT selling you a computer. I am modifying your computer.

Will this work on my computer?

This works on all 96-04 Ford Mustang computers. If you are unsure about your computer type, look at the attached pictures. Please send me your 4 digit PCM catch code so that I can check if PATS can be deleted on your PCM before you buy!

Will this work if my computer is blank or remanufactured?

The PCM needs to already be programmed (or stock), including the VIN number. Most remanufactured PCMs will come programmed, but possibly with a blank VIN. This PATS delete tune will not work unless the PCM is already programmed. However, if you need me to, I can program it with the latest Ford calibration using Ford IDS software, and program your VIN into the computer as well. This service does NOT come included in this auction, and there would be an additional $50 fee. Contact me for details if you need that service.

What do you need from me?

BEFORE YOU PURCHASE THIS AUCTION, I want you to send me your 4-digit PCM catch code and/or your PCM part number. See the attached example pictures of a computer sticker. The catch code is identified in red letters in my photo. It is a 4 digit alpha-numeric code located in large black letters on your computer sticker. The PCM part number is identified in lime green letters in my photo.

Alternately, if you have a good scan tool or programmer, you can read the 7 digit strategy code (Calibration ID) out from the PCM information section of your scan tool (mode 9), and provide that to me instead. This is actually the preferred method. Once I have your catch code or strategy code, I will look in my software and make absolutely sure that I have the ability to delete PATS on your particular application before you send your PCM in for service.

How should I send you the PCM?

Please do NOT purchase this auction until I receive your PCM, check it out, and contact you. Otherwise, Ebay will expect me to ship out your PCM, which I don't even have yet. Once I have confirmed that your PCM is definitely able to be PATS deleted, then I will message you a link to the forms you need to fill out. These forms contain the shipping address you need to send it to.

I highly recommend putting large bubble wrap around the PCM, or surround the PCM with packing paper, foam, etc. Be sure to fill out my PATS DELETE forms and send them in with your PCM. Please place the forms in an envelope to prevent them from getting damaged.

How long will it take?

It depends on how busy we are. Once I receive your PCM, it will usually take a few days, but that can vary. I normally send it back to you via USPS Priority Mail, which should take 1 to 3 days anywhere in the country, if USPS is on time. I have a long shipping time listed, only because I can't control how long it takes for you to get me the PCM. Once I receive the PCM, I'll delete PATS and ship it out as fast as possible.

Once you get the PCM back, make sure your key is off and your battery is disconnected. Install the PCM, then reconnect your battery and your car should start. The theft light may blink rapidly for the first minute or so. That is normal when you delete PATS, and will not prevent the car from starting.

In a hurry for it?

We offer two options that can speed things up:

1) Rush Services for $25. If you write RUSH on the box in large letters with a marker near the shipping label, we will know you need it fast and we'll do our best to pass it through here as quickly as possible, usually resulting in a 1 day turnaround (but that is not guaranteed).

2) If you write EXPRESS on the box, we will ship it back via Express Mail instead of Priority Mail, for whatever that costs. Express Mail costs around $35 for this PCM.

If you write RUSH EXPRESS on the box, we'll do both.

Are there any other tuning services included or available?

At this price, you are only getting PATS disabled. However, if you would like me to do additional calibration work, discuss that with me ahead of time. But other work is not included in this price, and would increase the cost. I offer performance tunes, as well as modification to the fan turn on temperature, gear ratio, tire size, and all sorts of other things, including factory Ford calibration updates.

Are there any warnings?

Yes! This programming service will erase your existing (factory or aftermarket) tune, and reprogram your computer with a new tune based on your existing strategy code. The new tune will be completely stock, except it will have PATS deleted. Also, your PCM must be in good working order for this to work. This reprogramming will not "fix" your existing computer if it's broken, or non-functional in any way. The ONLY thing this service will do is take a good computer and turn off it's PATS system. Once PATS is deleted, regular non-PATS keys will be able to start the car. If PATS is not the actual cause of your no-start problem, then deleting PATS will not resolve your issue!

*** Not legal for sale or use in the State of California ***
All orders shipping to California will be cancelled and refunded

Thanks for looking!

 

I have been watching videos and reading every forum that says crank no start. I'm starting to think that would be easier and cheaper to just do the engine swap I have planned and doing an aftermarket ECU. I was hoping to save the build for after my current build. But I've got 2-3 more ideas to try before renting a truck and trailer from U-Haul. Found one video where a guy rubbed his keys on one of the back speaker's magnets and it worked just fine. Saw another where he swapped out a 20-amp maxi fuse for a 30-amp maxi fuse and his fired right up after that. Seen another video where his wouldn't even show the mileage but did the 10-minute key in reset trick and it worked fine. Now I should mention that I leave the key in the car with it turned to acc. while I work on the mustang. Every time I notice the theft light isn't flashing or on, I give it a try. Obviously, it doesn't work but I try. Also keep in mind that I have the key like that for hours. I go over to work on the car, it's around 11 AM and i leave the car around 3:30 to go to work. My car has been showing me the mileage but showing theft light.