Spotted some red silicone gasket maker around the drain plug (not a good sign). Fetched a replacement plug (with good O-ring) from the boneyard and commenced the oil change. The old plug came out with trashed threads, and looking in the hole I found a helicoil (another not good sign). Put in the new plug, and the helicoil trashed its threads on the way in, but it seated and sealed, so I finished the change and figured I'd leave well enough alone for now - maybe the idiot PO used the wrong thread pitch when tapping for the helicoil... or something.

Since this is probably going to mean fetching a pan from the boneyard, I cracked Haynes (yeah, I know...) to see what the change procedure is.

1. Remove crossmember. (Alright, that's not a big deal.)
2. Raise engine a couple of inches. (Okay.)
3. Remove transmission. (WHAT THE ACTUAL FUH...?!)

Are they serious? If this is true, why wouldn't they just say "pull the engine"? Seems like that would be easier.

 

I wonder if maybe a new nut could be welded on to the old pan while in place on the car

 

Maybe even welded partially closed and then retapped for the stock plug.

 

or possibly get the right heli coil in there.

 

If it is too far gone for helicoil, an oversized timesert might work.

 

Ok, so... having recently done this on my car... not a '96 v6, but similar issue being clearance issues... the 'easiest' thing to do is this:
https://www.harborfreight.com/1000-lb-capacity-engine-support-bar-96524.html?_br_psugg_q=engine+support+ba

And then support the engine with it, and then put a jackstand under the bell housing of the transmission. These are sufficient to support the motor in place in the car. There's also a thought whereby you could just support the engine at the crank pulley, but it might be in the way of what you're doing, so I'd go with the support bar and bellhousing version.

However you do that... then you pull the K member right out of the car, (said as if it's 'just', which it kinda is on a S197, but not so much Fox and SN95...) and the oil pan will come straight down. Yes, it's scary to be under the car like that, ya ask me, but it's done all the time.

If you wanted to be extra safe, you can get the support bar that has the 'front to back' piece on it, but the one above is sufficient, if this video below is any indication. And it provides the visuals as to why the heck they say to do that work...
Or... yeah, maybe so, just yank the motor. You do you. Hope that helps in some way... yeesh.

Note: The second video is a K member swap on a s197, which shows the engine being supported *solely* by the transmission bell housing while the K member is out, hence my brace and bellhousing support method recommendation. Just so you know where I got that. Albeit it's an aluminum block not an iron one, so... yeah. Buyer beware or something. Carry on.

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