Had troubles with some intake backfiring and trying to trouble shoot to solve the problem but now it won't fire.
Here's some background it's a complete rebuild new cam new intake upper and lower new rockers, motor mounts the list just goes on and on. Basically everything but different heads, pistons rods and crank. Wouldn't run without intake backfiring, although it would go away during higher RPMs. After alot of troubleshooting it won't start. Checked all timing firing order compression pretty much everything. Kinda thinking maybe ignition module, any thoughts?

 

who did the engine work for you? Was the cam installed correctly? Pull a plug and see if your getting spark. Bring number one piston up on compression stroke and see where your timing marks are located.

 

A reputable mechanic and he still has it. I'm just getting as much info and forwarding it all to him and relaying the info back to here. So I appreciate all suggestions!!

 

Ok let's run threw some stuff.

Does the motor Turn over at all?

I am thinking a few things. Dead battery, Bad starter Solenoid, Bad starter, Broken Gear on the Distributor. I had that happen to me and couldn't start the car. It would just turn over.

 

It has to be a timing/firing order issue. Possible timing chain off a tooth also. What cam? What heads? Get a compression check done also.

 

Compression check was done all was good. Battery is good it turns over just doesn't fire. Looking into all three necessities of a car firing but all was well just a few days ago but now won't start. Stock heads. Crane cam part number 444211. And when it was started it had some popping in the intake.

 

I'm guessing distributor issue man. If compression was good then the valves aren't leaking and the timing chain is set right. Timing and firing order will cause backfire thru the intake.

 

I agreen, electronic ignition module. Thingy on the side of the distributor. Fails so much, they make a special little tool to get it off the distributor. Handly little 4mm wrench, when you need it.

Assuming I'm remembering the way things are right. Looks to be an 87 through 93 model, which those 5.0s I want to say had the EIM on the distributor... quick google search seems to agree.

That's what happened to me one day in the SVO. Went to get a part for the Muskrat, and the SVO died in the parking lot. That was the the problem, the module. Replaced it, fired right on up.

 

did you go through post #2 in tech?
https://themustangsource.com/f634/te...os-fox-503775/

I'm coming back into my post. read the tech info or print it and bring it to him but I would also restab the dizzy, go over the firing order and try again. I'm getting a feeling the dizzy could be off or is suspect but we need to get to some basics.

 

I forwarded him a copy of the entire tech that you posted (Thanks very helpful) he's going through everything and taking the ignition mod into get it checked first thing today. He tried to see if the dizzy was off by a tooth but didn't help any at all.

 

you have an msd box?

 

No. Stock.

 

Dizzy has been tested completely!! Tested out good! Now on to checking everything else.

 

Make sure the rotor in the distributor is firmly attached to the rod its on. And make sure your distributor isn't off a tooth

 

Noid light test said that the ECM and wiring is okay had 35 lbs constant pressure at the fuel rail.

 

Did you check the distributor gear to see if you didn't chew it up. I had that happen to me before and the car wouldn't start.

 

No the gear is like new and the roll pin still holds it in place

 

Back to timing and going to Verifying the injectors have flow.

 

If after all this and it still is popping and not running right then either pull the timing cover and make darn sure the timing marks are correct or test the coil and verify the spark strength. I'm getting baffled. I'm not knocking the guy but the marks can move.

 

Is it running at all now? I think we need a status update on what it's currently doing, and what has been done, and what hasn't.

If it's not running at all... Did anyone suggest the fuel cutoff relay? 'Cause I don't see it... I'm sure that's not it, but... Or maybe the fuel filter or the fuel regulator...?

Naw... surely I'm being silly for questioning these...