Patches89

So, I just put in a new gas tank, sending unit and fuel pump today ( car sat for 6 months for winter), went to start the car and it turned then heard a pop and lost all power. Tried to turn the key again and nothing. Took positive lead off the battery (for ten minutes) then tried starting it again. Heard the pop again then saw some smoke come out of the battery near the positive terminal. I then returned the battery, swapped out for a new one and bought a new solenoid. Installed and started right up. Took it for a ride down the street, it stalled, went to start again and list all power. Had to push it home and strong arm the steering wheel to turn.

I then bought a new positive battery cable because the original was looking crappy, installed, then started right up. I then went to pull it in the garage and now when I turn the wheel the steering wheel feels like it slips and makes a clicking or thumping noise!

The car had idle issues when I bought it but still need to get a new throttle body sensor, so the stalling is not part of the problem I am trying to find.

Not sure what is going on, if anyone can help let me know, I am a beginner and I am completely lost. Thanks for taking the time to read.

Patches89

I meant idle sensor not throttle body.

houtex

Just clarifying here.. The steering wasn't slipping before you put the new cable in? But now it does? That's... odd.

Except the belts and pulleys, and the engine making the pump turn, the steering is unrelated in all accounts to the electrics. There are four parts: 1) Pump and hoses, 2) rack and tie rods, 3) spindles and wheels, 4) the steering wheel and shaft, including the steering coupler, a device inserted in the middle of the steering shaft assembly to disconnect in a wreck. Maybe at the rack itself, I can't recall atm.

I'd check the coupler, and the rack. The pump may (also) be shot, and you're not getting enough pressure to make the rack work. Or you're low on fluid. That sort of thing.

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The electric, though... I'm not terribly sure, but did you imply that the new positive cable and battery has fixed all your power issues Or still having the issue of no power?

And when you say no power, that's the motor's not working (i.e, no power), or ALL electrical power? There's a whole set of difference in what you chase in either case. And the stalling may have everything to do with the motor not working, so if it needs a TPS, get it in there first. (Edit: Oh, you said idle sensor now... well, same thing, fix that, it's important... wait, whassa idle sensor... do you mean an idle air bypass? An 89, unless it's in Cali, didn't have Mass Air...)

I think it has codes... get a code puller, or get the instructions to make the check engine light blink and count up. They're out there... fix all the codes, it'll make things easier.

Hope that helps a little. Let us know!

skunk21

So what I'm trying to get out of this is you had a starting issue ie cranking. You went to turn the motor over and because of a faulty cable the car wouldn't start.

refer to our Fox tech section. read post #1 & 2 . The testing your battery and starting system and the cranks no start post if you have trouble again.

The steering issue could be from operating the steering with the motor off. sometimes moving the fluid around with the motor off can get it air bound. next time with the motor running move the steering wheel right/left to full lock a bunch of times and see if that helps if not then do like houtex stated and start checking things over.

Patches89

@ houtex. I noticed the steering problem after I got it started again. The battery cable had nothing to do with the steering. When it stalled out I had to really force the wheel to turn and I think I may of messed something up during the long push home and having to turn the wheel 4-5 times. When I replaced the battery cable it started up, I pulled it in the garage crawled out of the car and called it a day. I don't think I have to work out for two weeks after all that , but a couple cold beers made me feel better.

As for the power loss, I lost all electrical power. I decided to replace the battery cable because it did not look very good to begin with ( and I figured maybe I will start with the most simple fix). It did start up after I replaced it, but I have not tried it since. I will try to see if it happens again today.

Patches89

@ Skunk21. I will try the turning the wheel today and see what happens. I will update tonight.

skunk21

Like houtex stated check the connection where the steering shaft connects to the rack, also check the rag joint. If the inner/outer tie rods, shaft, etc. check out and the pump is fine and isn't air bound then the problem may lie inside the rack. the next thing would be either a used rack or 50resto( late model restoration) has new racks at a good price if you need to go that route.

Here is what the rag joint looks like:



get yourself a cheap OBD1 code reader for the future but also keep in mind that our cars do not always throw the check engine light when there is a code. product of OBD1. so you still may have a codes w/o a light.

Patches89

Thank for the info. I haven't taken it for a ride to test the steering out. Seems to have gotten a little better when I kept turning the wheel back and forth.
Now I have a rough idle and stalling issue! Car starts fine, then revs up and down, shakes, then stalls out. I replaced the idle control valve and nothing changed. Not sure if it is the throttle control module, distributor or flux capacitor ( to make time travel possible and not of bought this car)? Have no idea at this point.

houtex

Throttle position sensor, my guess. Also, clean your throttle body.

Pull the battery cable when you're doing these.

Then, once the throttle body's clean, and you've replaced the TPS (and adjusted it properly if it's called for by the book), then you start the car, and let it idle for 3 minutes A/C off, then 3 minutes A/C on. Repeat if you have an automatic, but in gear.

That'll retrain the computer and all the shenanigans will stop.

Assuming it's not a bigger issue such as timing or bad distributor cap/rotor, wires, plugs, gas, fuel filter, pump, dirty air filter, or compression.

Off the top of my head. Of course, you can just clean the throttle body and retrain and see where you're at. May be all that's needed.

Patches89

I cleaned the throttle body and nothing changed. I think this weekend I will change the distributor cap and change the TPS. The Haynes manual says to have a shop adjust the TPS, do I need special tools to do this?

skunk21

spec is .6-1.0V, if its in that range and has no dead spots to WOT its fine. The ecu in the car does a 'reset' of the closed throttle voltage everytime you crank it. As long as the tps is in the 'range' at idle (.6-1.0V is fine) and outputs smoothly increasing voltages as the throttle is opened it's going to work fine. Should be no need to adjust it.

Most tps sensors have no adjustment and should be a bolt in afair. you can test your tps but you need a volt meter. There are 3 wires green, orange and black. The green wire is the signal, orange 5v refrence and black is ground. turn teh key on engine off and probe the green signal wire . should get 1.0v wot or close to it, has you open the throttle blade the voltage will sweep up. if not then the tps is bad.

Patches89

Thanks, I will check it this weekend and I will update.

Patches89

All right I am stumped! I replaced the idle control valve, changed distributor cap and rotor and replaced the plugs and wires. The car is still stalling out on me!
I will start and then it will idle then almost stall, then jump up rev again then almost stall, then rev and stall out.

Does any one think it's the EGR or throttle or TPS?

skunk21

get an OBD1 code reader and do a KOEO( key on engine off ) and test for codes. once you do this and start rule things out then go from there. could be egr, maf, map, etc, etc.

houtex

You're sure the fuel system is in order? new fuel filter maybe needed?

Also, yeah, the EGR and TPS will cause stuff like this. I agree with Skunk, time to invest in an OBD1 reader. It'll save your sanity. Had a similar experience with a Mark VII, the reader said "EGR valve" and that's what it was.

Patches89

Does autozone read codes? I don't have a reader and would like to get this done tomorrow.

Sgorsuch77

Autozone only reads OBD 2 codes

skunk21

OBD1 reader can be had at any parts store for like $20 they are the basic of basic code readers. you are going to counting beeps, that is ..OBD1. some others will read out the code.

trust me you can throw parts at this thing all day and miss. the code reader still could be a miss, the fun of cars.