This weekend I am going to replace the springs and shoes on my 91LX for the first time. I have been in there and it looks as though the spring configuration is fairly simple. Just wanted to see if anyone had any insite into problems they ran into or tricks to make it go smothly before I started. Thanks.

 

When doing drum brakes, I always have the whole rear up and both tires off. I will do one side and use the other side to verify that I've got all the springs and other tid bits back correctly. LOL!

 

Definately do one side at a time, as Redsplash mentions. It really helps to have the other side to compare to.
Also look at the surface of the drum for any grooves or scoreing. If your finger nail gets hung up on the surface of the drum, it should be taken to a shop and turned.

It's always been my practice to have the drums turned/surfaced whenever doing rear drums. It helps the shoes wear-in properly. I usually get the drums off on a Friday evening and take them to a shop. They usually have done by 10 AM the next morning. That way, I can work on getting the brakes done before the drums are finished . Shop charged me $8 a drum last time. Cheap insurance for a complete job.

Remember to bleed the system when your done.

 

what you should do is just get the baer brake 5 lug conv for your car. thats what I would do.....j/k. yeah, you wana turn the drums and with any type of brake job, always leave one side together so that if you mess up on the side your doing you have a point of reference to work from.

 

Does anyone know how to get the bearings out. I pulled the drum off and it doesn't like like your usual grease cap and cotter pin configuration. Its solid.

 

(7.5 c-clip rear end and all c-clip rear ends) to get to the berring you will have to pull the axel and to do so you will have to remove the diff cover drain all the fluid and then remove a small bolt holing the large ping in the center of the carrier slid the large pin out then push in on the axels and you will see large c clips that just slide off once off the axel slides right out and you will see the berrings that are held in with the axel seal

if you have a non c- clip rear end eg.. 9 inch the there is 4 bolts behind the backing plate that you remove to remove the axel

hope that helps

joe

 

Inquiring minds might want to know how you came out on your DIY brake job?

Are they done? Did you doofus? Are they now safe? Did you turn have the drums turned?

Share your knowledge and experience. Some newbie might need info.

 

Also keep in mind, when changing brake shoes or pads, make sure to clean EVERYTHING. I usually go through a can or two of brake cleaner, and before installing the drums, put the air pressured nozzle to it, to get out any minute dust.

 

I'm trying to refurbish an 8'' rear axel for a 67 and can't seem to get the drum off. Book says to take the tinnerman nuts off the studs but there's no bolts there. Shouldn't it slide right off the studs?

 

Can you turn/rotate the wheel? If not, the shoes are froze. Or, what has probably happened is that the brake shoe has worn into/scored the drum, causing a lip/groove cut into the drum. What you need to do is remove the rubber plug from the lower part of the backing plate and turn the the star wheel/self adjuster with a brake spoon. The self adjuster keeps the shoes pushed out in contact with the drum. If you get the shoes to retract, the drum can usually be pulled off. You can use some penetrating fluid on the studs and hub too. Sometimes whacking the drum (after loosening the star wheel/adjuster) will persuade the shoes into releasing their death grip.