jpony645

Sometimes if the tune is out then it will also cause a heating problem. I just can't remember whether it is a rich or lean condition.

StangerX

Too lean will make it run hot. I've tried that too. Adjusting rich and lean. That made a little LITTLE difference, but not enough to help me out. This bad boy is just obstinate. Like I said... I really think this thing was bored out too much. That's all I can figure. If you heard it run, you'd probably agree. I've heard other 302's with similar engine mods on them, and they don't sound anything like this motor. I know for a fact it's a 302 - Late 70's Lincoln motor (if I remember correctly).

Someone just hopped the fool out of the bottom end (which is what I baught from someone - out of their garrage). I think the motor is just wicked bad, and that's what's causing the heating issue.

I have Flowmaster 40's on it, stock Exhaust manifolds, Comp cam, comp lifters, comp roller rockers and studs, Stock cast heads, Weiand intake, Edelbrock 600 performer (starving for fuel, by the way), and some other odds and ends performance items. That's really not too radical of a motor. Yet, the sound of this thing is DEAFENNING. What's more, the ground shakes for at least 6 feet all around the car while it's running.

Something seriously bad to the bone happened when the last person re-did that motor. Just have no clue what! Alas, I can't keep it cool, and THAT is what's killing me.

jpony645

How hot are we talking here anyway? Boiling or just more than you think it should be?

.060 over will cause it to run hotter but not usually OVERLY hot. I've also never heard an engine sound different based on it being bored a certain amount. :scratch: My 289 is .040 over and runs about 200* normally.

StangerX

Like I said... I think when it gets heating up, it will climb up 230-240. Depends on how hot of a day it is outside. When you open the hood, the hot air just slaps you in the face. It's hot hot hot... and not like the toyota commercials.

Jay

Headers will pull of some heat. What size exhaust are you running?

StangerX

no headers. I'm running manifolds, and exhaust is... I think 2.5 in.

Jay

I doubt you are running 2.5 with manifolds.... you can also pull some heat off by going to a colder plug.

Have you considered pulling the heads to learn some more about that "crazy bottom end"? Perhaps the head gaskets or even the intake gaskets are blocking flow?

VintagMustang302

I got to back up my Bro here Stanger X. We have been working on the this heating problem ever since we built the motor 2 years ago. It's not working he has alot of Bottom end hardware to make it run hot. I also think the motor is bored 60. I just don't think the there is any other route then to go aluminum .


Which brings me to my delima I have the same issue. I have a 302 in my 66 with heating problems. I was thinking of going this route. I called up Summit and this is what I got.

Summit Aluminum radiator $170

Aluminum water pump $45

Transmission cooler $50

We are looking at around $265 for everthing to get you going minus the radiator hoses. You have a aftermarket summit radiator. A later model water pump to switch to the drivers side and the trans cooler cause the new radaitor does not have provesions for it.

Since you would probley have to spend $200 for a 4 row copper one I think this is the best route to go. I know it won't fit and need to do some modification but that the name of the game.

Let me know Stanger if this sound like your solution to beat the Charleston heat.

jpony645

If you "built the motor" then how come you can't tell us what's in that would be making it run hot?


I've never seen components inside an engine cause it to run hot. It's usually tuning or blockages causing it.

VintagMustang302

The rule is ussaly that horse power equals heat. So if you add any thing in the enter workings of a motor that increases HP the more heat the motor generates. I just can't think of any thing else that would cause it to run that hot other than the bore is 60 over. We didn't check the bottom half of the motor when we assamled it. It was already put together. We put stock heads on it, roller rockers, Weland stealth intake and a high lift comp cam. Not sure how much HP it has but the car is really quick. Put everything looked new on the bottom end. I wish we checked the bore size when it was apart.

The motor is together and runs great just too hot. So thats why I suggested going to auliminm. Don't know what else to do at this point. :scratch: Any other suggestions would be great to help Stanger. Thanks

LMan

for those wanting a blow-by-blow on installing a $159 (!) alum radiator for opentrack use:

http://home.houston.rr.com/jonescbjcj//Pho...stall/index.htm
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SexyVenera cam

VintagMustang302

Thanks for the how too on the step-by-step installation of an aluminum radiator. Great info.

Bravenrace

It sounds to me like you most likely need a better fan, not a bigger radiator. It takes more HP to push a car down the freeway than to sit still idling. When the engine makes more HP it makes more heat. It runs cool down the freeway, so you know the radiator has the capacity. Based on your description, the difference between when it runs cool and when it heats up is airflow through the radiator and coolant flow. But you have a HO water pump, and in my experience, that is a much less likely problem then a lack of airflow over the radiator. The radiator can't cool unless it has enough airflow to transfer the heat efficiently. Maybe I missed it, but what kind of fan are you running?
-Jim

LMan

info update. I went to get a new upper hose for my setup, and found (after some rummaging at NAPA) that a NAPA #8807 hose fits perfectly for that driver-side radiator inlet B) . See pic!


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LIVE SEX

Mberglo

That hose is black. Where's the Bling? Can you get it in Guardsman Blue?

Nice find LMan. You're an asset to the community. B)