rear springs
rear springs
Anyone have any suggestions , how to get the front eye bolt out . I am going to replace the rear springs in my 68 coupe , but I can't get the front bolt to move . It appears to be frozen in . One person told me to use a torch ,but I don't like that idea , the gas line is real close.
Based on my sometimes ok memory of having a similar issue (wallowed out hole in the frame rail... just welded the washer to the rail in the position we wanted... worked fantastic!
), and this pic here:
http://www.mustangmonthly.com/howto/.../photo_38.html
Well... yeah, you might need a torch. At that point, I would simply cut the head off the bolt and be done with it. Without the head, that will be a lot simpler to bang outta there, I'm bettin'. The leaf spring can just be pulled off the frame rail because the bolt head's gone, yeah? You're replacing all that anyway, right?
Otherwise, a ton of PB Blaster or such, every 15 minutes, and beat the hell outta things to help it work through the rust/corrosion.
I don't think a torch is the best way Unless the idea is to cut the bolt off with it, or melt the rubber to get the inner sleeve to come out?... but whatever works is what you do now. For what it's worth, unless you rupture that line, it's likely not to be a big deal, as long as you don't intentionally hit it with the torch. Still.
Good luck!
), and this pic here:http://www.mustangmonthly.com/howto/.../photo_38.html
Well... yeah, you might need a torch. At that point, I would simply cut the head off the bolt and be done with it. Without the head, that will be a lot simpler to bang outta there, I'm bettin'. The leaf spring can just be pulled off the frame rail because the bolt head's gone, yeah? You're replacing all that anyway, right?
Otherwise, a ton of PB Blaster or such, every 15 minutes, and beat the hell outta things to help it work through the rust/corrosion.
I don't think a torch is the best way Unless the idea is to cut the bolt off with it, or melt the rubber to get the inner sleeve to come out?... but whatever works is what you do now. For what it's worth, unless you rupture that line, it's likely not to be a big deal, as long as you don't intentionally hit it with the torch. Still.
Good luck!
Last edited by houtex; Apr 27, 2012 at 07:38 PM.
There is a rubber grommet inside of the spring mounting sleeve. This rubber either melts or shrinks onto the bolt and often makes the bolt immovable. The torch is used to melt and soften the rubber to slide the bolt out. Cutting the bolt is harder, but it will work.
There is a rubber grommet inside of the spring mounting sleeve. This rubber either melts or shrinks onto the bolt and often makes the bolt immovable. The torch is used to melt and soften the rubber to slide the bolt out. Cutting the bolt is harder, but it will work.
Correct, unless someone did something weird, there is a sleeve, and that is what's welded the bolt in, not the rubber. If it were rubber, that can just be pryed out, overall.
Now, melting the rubber? Sure... it'd be messy, but the spring would pull off he rubber that way... you'd still have a bolt stuck to the frame rail, but it might be easier to hack off... maybe.
Now, melting the rubber? Sure... it'd be messy, but the spring would pull off he rubber that way... you'd still have a bolt stuck to the frame rail, but it might be easier to hack off... maybe.
Take a torch and a hammer. While heating it up hit each side with the hammer. The heat will soffen the rust and the hammer will move it. This won't make it easy, but it will help get the bolt out. After you've done all that, use a breaker bar or a ratchet with a pipe on the end to get leverage on it and it will come out.
Unless its so rusted that when you try and loosen it the head will just snap off anyway.
Unless its so rusted that when you try and loosen it the head will just snap off anyway.
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