BLAKE

It smacked a tree pretty hard on the passenger front corner, but the only damage to the engine (That has 2,000 miles on it!) was that the battery was shoved into the smog pump and broke the bracket that holds it and the alternator. It's got a good working T-5 and a new Edelbrock carb and RPM intake manifold. Even better, the 85 fits into the window of 5.0 carb'd cars with a mechanical fuel pump so I don't have to go with an electric one.

Now all I need is:
• New brass dist gear to adapt my old dizzy to the roller cam
• I want to keep the latemodel water pump. It should be reverse rotation, so I wonder if I need to change the radiator?
• to figure out how to deal with the dipstick/oil pan situation
• headers
• T-5 conversion crossmember
• Clutch cable conversion
• New drive shaft with the correct dimensions
• Probably rig the floor-mount E-brake handle

Am I missing anything?

Here's a pic of a buddy of mine wailing on it with a crow bar. We had the front end ahead of the shock towers chopped off by 6:00 Saturday night.

GT350Clone

Wait a sec... You bought a wrecked Mustang and they gave you a free ORGAN with it? How unusual!

Don't use the brass gear on the street - spring for the good steel one. I've got 5 years & 25k miles on mine with zero maintenance (and a HV oil pump!).

You do need to change the bottom outlet on the radiator to the driver's side if using reverse rotation pump. I've HEARD that Edelbrock was coming out with a pssenger side inlet, reverse rotation pump... It'll probably be as expensive as a new radiator though!

You have to change to the early model oil pan & pickup. Also, highly recommended to change the pump driveshaft, as the EEC cars use a slighltly longer one, and a FEW people have had problems with chewing stuff up because of this. You want a good chromemoly one anyone... The late timing cover will have a flat for the front-mounted dipstick - just drill it out while you have the pan off.

If you already have some, your existing headers will work. I like my hydraulic, but it wasn't as cheap as cable. :scratch:

Cable clutch can be a problem with SOME headers - just keep this in mind...

Your existing driveshaft MIGHT work - some have had to shorten them an inch or so.

BLAKE

Ugh, I don't think I'm gonna dignify that opening "joke" with a response. You can do better Cloney.

• I didn't realize the brass one wasn't a good match for the street. Will it wear out fast?

• Thanks for confirming my thought on the radiator outlet.

• So there is a boss for the dipstick in the latemodel timing cover? That's fantastic, and definately what I would prefer to use.

• I'm a little confused on the oil pump shaft issue. I'll be using my old High-volume pump from my 289. Is the distance different from the ouil pump to the bottom of the dizzy on the 85? Not trying to be thick-headed here, but I know I need to get this part right. I know the oil pump driveshaft is definately the weak link in these engines.

• I'll probably get some cheapie Flowtech headers. I have been waiting a long time to junk those stock manifolds.

• Is the transmission yoke the same for a C4 / T-5?

Thanks for the help so far Bob.

GT350Clone

Brass will wear out faster, plus put metal shavings into your oiling system!

I believe all the 85-93 timing covers had the boss pre-cast as a flat. The 94-95 covers don't have any provision.

Use the Ford Racing A302 driveshaft - do NOT use the B302 version for the 5.0 cars. The 5.0 version is slightly longer, with a slightly shorter dizzy shaft. There have been stories of engines being destroyed by this minor difference! Use the shaft that matches the distributor!

The C4 yoke will work with a T5, although most C4 yokes have been around for 35-40 years and tend to have grooves... You can always use the C4 yoke to get on the road and swap later though...

BLAKE

Wow, not only a thorough answer, but with links too! Cloney, you are my hero.

I've got a part number (Thank you Ronstang from StangNet!) for the correct steel gear: M-12390-B (Forget that brass idea!)

Thanks again for the correct oil pump driveshaft part #. It's the little pitfalls like this that keep me awake at night. Knowing the answers makes me feel alot better.

GT350Clone

Link-R-Us!

Yep, the M12390B is the correct gear for the early dizzy with .467 dia shaft.

The M12390F only fits the larger 5.0 shaft (.531 dia).

Oh, BTW, you do have to plug the original dipstick tube hole in the side of the block. A wood dowel slathered in Permatex works fine.