1964-1970 Mustang Member Tech & Restoration Discussion

Best way to patch these holes?

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Old 1/17/05, 11:37 AM
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I decided to delete the quarter trim and old vinyl roof trim from my car. I'm pretty sure I know what to do with the holes in the quarter panel. I was thinking of just making some small sheetmetal patches to weld in there but I'm not sure about the area on the side of the roof. That seam has lead in it so if I tack a small backer on the inside will it melt the lead? How would you fill those holes after the backer is put on except for using lead? I don't want them to crack later on.

FYI, I'm using Metal2Metal filler on my other patch weld joints then a skim coat of Icing.

You can see the vinyl top trim holes at the rear roof pillar in this pic.


and for reference.....the quarter panel trim holes are the 3 on the edge of the "scoop" area, seen here.
Old 1/19/05, 09:05 AM
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Anyone? Beuller?................. Beuller?...................... :geek:
Old 1/19/05, 09:19 AM
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IMO, (and I'm FAR from an expert on this!), I'd just tack weld the holes closed. Go easy on the heat, and replace any lead that melts with good filler. I don't think you'll really melt that much lead in tacking those closed.
Old 1/19/05, 09:22 AM
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Originally posted by GT350Clone@January 19, 2005, 11:22 AM
IMO, (and I'm FAR from an expert on this!), I'd just tack weld the holes closed. Go easy on the heat, and replace any lead that melts with good filler. I don't think you'll really melt that much lead in tacking those closed.
That's what I was thinking, but I'm even FURTHER from being an expert.
Old 1/19/05, 09:24 AM
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Maybe I'll just have to try it and see how it works. I'm not sure how much heat that lead takes to melt. It is probably a 1/2" thick so just filling them, as is, with filler may result in cracking later. I'm definitely tacking a backer on the whole from inside the car so maybe that will help stabilize the filler.
Old 1/19/05, 10:20 AM
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On our 68, the quarter trim holes were just welded up and ground down ( longer wire at tip/low heat). We are still debating (mostly me :bang: at "Huey") regarding the vinyl top, so I cant comment on the lead seam.
Old 1/19/05, 12:44 PM
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Try not going the backing route. Make the patch the same size as the hole and tig weld it flush. Thats what I would try first. Hang in there. It is not as hard as you think. You are doing a fine job.
Old 1/19/05, 12:47 PM
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there is a coating of lead around the holes that should be melted away (just enough to weld the hole), then you can weld the holes up like you normally wood. There is two layers of metal there so I dont see how you could weld it from the back.

After that I would just fill it back up with duraglass or something of that nature.
Old 1/19/05, 01:26 PM
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I'll have to take another look. You may be right about the 2 layers. I was thinking that there was only one when I looked before though. :scratch:


Are you pretty confident that the filler will hold to the lead ok?
Old 1/19/05, 01:29 PM
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I already did it so I will let you know

I dont see why it wouldnt hold, lead is rougher than steel so I actually think it will hold better.
Old 1/19/05, 01:57 PM
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Gotcha. I appreciate you input.
Old 1/19/05, 03:18 PM
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The factory used filler over lead for years without issue. To fill the holes use a washer on the back side and tack it in place and then plug weld it. The washer will not warp like sheetmetal will while plug welding.
Old 1/19/05, 03:25 PM
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Originally posted by svopaul@January 19, 2005, 4:21 PM
The factory used filler over lead for years without issue. To fill the holes use a washer on the back side and tack it in place and then plug weld it. The washer will not warp like sheetmetal will while plug welding.
:worship: Great tip, Paul.


My concern was it being very thick and not holding to the lead because of that.
Old 1/19/05, 04:03 PM
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Don't worry about the lead...if you need to take some out in those areas you can fill it in. Commonly done now as lead is an old school talent that is not known by most these days.
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