How's this set up?
5/20/05, 01:26 PM
#1
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Thanks in advance for your opinions. My intent for this car has to build a street car, on a road race platform. One that could easily be driven to a track and ran in a HPDE and then driven home in air conditioned comfort. For power and drive train, I have a 351-w rollered, a T-5 rebuilt to take the high hp and torque. 3.50 posi rear. Now here are the things I would like to bounce off you folk....
Front:
I went with TCP struts and LCA's, Boxed my factory uppers. "Shelby" drop, IAS shocks. Lowered roughly 1.5". 1" sway bar. I have patterned the bump steer and reduced it to acceptable levels. I have not done anything with the upper ball joints. But, they seem pretty good, no binding in full travel. I am going with a FR 16:1 box using a U-joint to the factory column. I am still not 100% about power steering. For the track and street I have no issues. But it is tough on AX. I get pretty tired after 6 to 8 runs. I still have not balanced completely. The car still understeers a bit. I would prefer to be neutral edging toward oversteer.
Rear:
As of now 4-1/2 leaf mid-eyes. There is very minimal hop and only when I goof off and launch. If I were taking the car to a strip I would look seriously at slide-a-links.But this car most likely will NOT see a strip. Now, here is where I get wishy washy >>> Panhard bar -vs.- watts link. The Maier PH bar is good. But, I wonder if for an extra 200 if the Fays2 is a better pick.
Brakes:
As of now running stock discs with 71 large spindles. I have run ducting to them so I feel pretty good. Rear drums. If I were to upgrade I would either use Baer Trackers or custom design a system using Brembro calipers removed from my Porsche.
Mischievous - a driven 69 Fastback!!
Front:
I went with TCP struts and LCA's, Boxed my factory uppers. "Shelby" drop, IAS shocks. Lowered roughly 1.5". 1" sway bar. I have patterned the bump steer and reduced it to acceptable levels. I have not done anything with the upper ball joints. But, they seem pretty good, no binding in full travel. I am going with a FR 16:1 box using a U-joint to the factory column. I am still not 100% about power steering. For the track and street I have no issues. But it is tough on AX. I get pretty tired after 6 to 8 runs. I still have not balanced completely. The car still understeers a bit. I would prefer to be neutral edging toward oversteer.
Rear:
As of now 4-1/2 leaf mid-eyes. There is very minimal hop and only when I goof off and launch. If I were taking the car to a strip I would look seriously at slide-a-links.But this car most likely will NOT see a strip. Now, here is where I get wishy washy >>> Panhard bar -vs.- watts link. The Maier PH bar is good. But, I wonder if for an extra 200 if the Fays2 is a better pick.
Brakes:
As of now running stock discs with 71 large spindles. I have run ducting to them so I feel pretty good. Rear drums. If I were to upgrade I would either use Baer Trackers or custom design a system using Brembro calipers removed from my Porsche.
Mischievous - a driven 69 Fastback!!
5/31/05, 09:36 AM
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It sounds like you're off to a good start with your current set up. You may already have done it, but if not your next step should be to stiffen the chassis - Monty Carlo Bar, Export Brace and Subframe Connectors.
FRONT:
As for the front suspension, the TCP LCA's and Strut Rods should work great with your boxed UCA's. I would just make sure you do not induce a bind situation with your upper ball joints.
I've got the Edelbrock IAS shocks, front and rear, and love them, I would never go back to KYBs.
You may want to add a Roller Spring Perch and upgrade your front sway bar to top off your front suspension.
To help out with your understeer situation, dial in some more caster into the alignment. What alignment specs are you currently running?
REAR:
The 4.5 mid-eye leafs with IAS is a nice set up. I have a Panhard Bar and Traction Masters (no rear sway bar) and love the set up. With the subframes, panhard bar and Traction Masters my car is very solid and predictable on the track.
STEERING:
Forget about vintage power steering, unless you are willing to spring for a rack and pinion set up. I think you can get a great manual steering set up on our cars with the new Flaming River steering box and replacing all of the rubber bushing points with bearings. Make sure to get an idler arm with a pressed bearing and roller spring perch, you already have the TCP strut rods and LCA.
BRAKES:
Are your front brakes the 4 piston Kelsey Hayes calipers? If so these are great brakes, just get some good pads. I would definately swap to rear discs first, then upgrade the front brakes some down the road. A lot of the "Big Brake Kits" are hype and bling.
Hey, just some of my ideas; I'd like to know what some other opinions are.
Tim
FRONT:
As for the front suspension, the TCP LCA's and Strut Rods should work great with your boxed UCA's. I would just make sure you do not induce a bind situation with your upper ball joints.
I've got the Edelbrock IAS shocks, front and rear, and love them, I would never go back to KYBs.
You may want to add a Roller Spring Perch and upgrade your front sway bar to top off your front suspension.
To help out with your understeer situation, dial in some more caster into the alignment. What alignment specs are you currently running?
REAR:
The 4.5 mid-eye leafs with IAS is a nice set up. I have a Panhard Bar and Traction Masters (no rear sway bar) and love the set up. With the subframes, panhard bar and Traction Masters my car is very solid and predictable on the track.
STEERING:
Forget about vintage power steering, unless you are willing to spring for a rack and pinion set up. I think you can get a great manual steering set up on our cars with the new Flaming River steering box and replacing all of the rubber bushing points with bearings. Make sure to get an idler arm with a pressed bearing and roller spring perch, you already have the TCP strut rods and LCA.
BRAKES:
Are your front brakes the 4 piston Kelsey Hayes calipers? If so these are great brakes, just get some good pads. I would definately swap to rear discs first, then upgrade the front brakes some down the road. A lot of the "Big Brake Kits" are hype and bling.
Hey, just some of my ideas; I'd like to know what some other opinions are.
Tim
5/31/05, 10:54 AM
#5
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I like about everything Tim has said.
I would only mention that I know quite a few opentrack/road racers who do just fine with rear drums (in many vintage classes they are a requirement) - I dont consider rear discs a necessity for track work. Properly adjusted and functioning drums (Oversize drums are a worthwhile upgrade) work fine.
I would only mention that I know quite a few opentrack/road racers who do just fine with rear drums (in many vintage classes they are a requirement) - I dont consider rear discs a necessity for track work. Properly adjusted and functioning drums (Oversize drums are a worthwhile upgrade) work fine.
5/31/05, 05:20 PM
#6
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personally i think anything more than a 12" front brake is way overkill. and generally 11" work just fine unless you put lots' of rubber to the ground. also you can get drilled drums or drill a lot of holes in the backing plate for extra cooling. a big rear brake is definitely worthwhile, i'm still kind of wishy washy myself on whether to run rear disks or drums, but i'll probably use the versailles rear i already have since i already have it and it's been completely gone through already
what size wheels and tires are you running?
what size wheels and tires are you running?
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