I finished my suspension install, but for the strut bolts, the best i could torque them too was at least 150 ft/lbs

I believe they're supposed to be torqued to 166 ft/lbs. My tool only went up to 150, but I tried to torque them as hard as i physically could, So i dont know for sure how much it is, but its at least 150. maybe 155? idk but i couldnt get much more after hitting 150.


I took my car to get the alignment. I thought they would remove the wheels and all that, but they didnt, used some massive computer/machine. In the end they got the alignment back into spec.

So now should I have any concern because of not being able to torque the strut bolts all the way to 166? is there any negative?

 

I would think 150 - 155 would be just fine. Just recheck after a hundred miles or so of driving.

Do you have camber bolts or adjustable strut mounts?

 

Ok great!

I did buy camber bolts, but I decided I would not install them. My thinking was I was gonna take the car to get the alignment, and if they needed the bolts to get it into spec, I'd have them install them(and hopefully also hit the 166 torque when they put it back together). But I got back this morning from the alignment, and they were able to get all wheels into alignment without a problem.

Now visually, the front wheels still seem to have just a tiny bit of negative camber. I took it to a ford dealership service place and all the paperwork they gave me shows how they re-aligned it all back into spec. Just to be safe I took it across the street to the same dealerships customizing shop, Galpin Auto Sports(who specialize in customizing mustangs), and asked one of their experts. Showed him the car, the paperwork, etc. He said it was all correct. Asked him about the negative camber I could barely notice, he said it was okay to have a tiny little bit, would even help performance. I asked about the camber bolts, he said they're not always necessary.


Point is, according to all them, everything is good now. He did say it would be a good idea to monitor the tire tread every once in a while just to be safe. What do you think? All good?

PS. the front only dropped about 1.1" - rear 1.7"

 

by the way, I had gotten GT500 mounts too, but they dont fit with these struts, cause theyre specific to 2011+ cars. This I did not know until I saw the strut bolt wasn't long enough. So i did plan for these things, just also missed a few stuff. So im reusing the stock mounts, with no camber bolts. and according to ford they still were able to get it all into spec

 

Hope you don't get the squeak and pop...

 

The alignment spec calls for negative camber, quite a bit actually.

I believe the spec is -.75 to -1.3 degrees.

 

in that case then it all makes a lot of sense. I dont really like the negative camber look, but if its to factory specs then meh. its not a lot anyway and really only noticable if one pays attention from right down the side of the car.

I'll probably still get CC plates later on but for now this will do. Thanks guys for all the help!

 

The negative camber is one of the reasons it handles so well.

 

It may be factory correct but that doesn't mean your tires are going to wear normally. Handling is better that way as stated but I always adjusted mine with less neg camber so my tires would wear better/more evenly. Rotate your tires and you will have 4 tires worn abnormally and worn out sooner that they should be.

 

Anything up to -1.5 camber would be just fine for a DD as long as its not all Highway miles and you don't drive like a grandma in the curves I got 20K miles out of my Pzero's with normal wear and regualr rotations.

 

yep 20 k out of a 30 or 40k tire.