Pieced together brake cooling '13/'14 Mustang

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Mar 11, 2015 | 06:28 PM

#61

Stevedotmil

Shelby GT500 Member

Joined: July 15, 2012

Posts: 2,708

Likes: 2

From: Germany

Any updates on your rear brake ducting adventures?

Apr 4, 2016 | 11:13 AM

#62

mustang5o

Bullitt Member

Joined: August 19, 2013

Posts: 287

Likes: 11

I was going to start a new thread but since I just did a slightly modified version of dmichaels setup I figured I'd just revive this old thread.

Quote:

Originally Posted by dmichaels

For anyone interested, I pieced together the brake duct cooling that Ford Racing offers for ~$375+ for around $180 (could do it for a bit less if you buy less ducting, I bought extra to ensure I have plenty)

Right bezel is DR3Z17E810BA (22.94 from Tousley Ford)
Left bezel is DR3Z17E811BA (22.68 from Tousley Ford)
Backing plates from Blowfish Racing~$75: Backing Plates
Ducting ~$65: High Temp Ducting

Took me a while to locate everything, so if anyone else is trying to piece this together as well, figured I'd pass along the info. If I remember I'll post a couple pictures once I finish my install

I used the same Blowfish backing plates (price has gone up) and high temp duct from Amazon.

Quote:

Originally Posted by dmichaels

After continued brake fade issues I've had at track outings this year, I did some research and found the 2011/2012 Mustang routing has a significantly larger inlet area compared with the fog light bezels I have been using. Additionally, the routing has fewer bends, so significantly less loss in the duct.

So I bought a set of 4" to 3" ducting reducers (basically the same as the JLT inlets) for $2.50 each on Amazon. I drilled out the side areas of the lower grill and installed as shown.

Based on quick measurements, it appears I'm gaining about 50% more area with these inlets compared with the FR bezels. A comparison show is below.

I also put in SS lines today, which should help stiffen the pedal a bit more too.

I'll be out again in just over a week to test the new setup. I'm hopeful that I'll FINALLY have no brake fade with this ducting setup.

I then purchased these reducers from Amazon as well (now $5 each). However, I cut out some of the honeycomb slots in the lower grille and mounted the ports behind the lower grille. Same as what Vorshlag has you do for their brake cooling setup. I didn't get any pics yet but I'll add some later when I get a chance.

All in for about the same price as the JLT kit.

Thanks again dmichaels for all the great information you've provided.

Last edited by mustang5o; Apr 4, 2016 at 11:17 AM.

May 11, 2016 | 07:32 AM

#63

SGwick

Mach 1 Member

Joined: April 3, 2011

Posts: 520

Likes: 34

From: Illinois

Quote:

Originally Posted by dmichaels

hey boss, did you have to remove the front bumper, then the lower fascia to install braking cooling ducting?

May 11, 2016 | 07:52 AM

#64

mustang5o

Bullitt Member

Joined: August 19, 2013

Posts: 287

Likes: 11

Quote:

Originally Posted by SGwick

hey boss, did you have to remove the front bumper, then the lower fascia to install braking cooling ducting?

All I had to do was remove the wheels, underbelly piece (can't think of what that's called) and then the lower grille since I mounted mine behind the grille.

May 13, 2016 | 07:21 PM

#65

dmichaels

Thread Starter

Shelby GT350 Member

Joined: April 14, 2013

Posts: 2,460

Likes: 111

From: CT

Quote:

Originally Posted by mustang5o

All I had to do was remove the wheels, underbelly piece (can't think of what that's called) and then the lower grille since I mounted mine behind the grille.

Same for me

Jun 25, 2016 | 02:57 PM

#66

trackpack13gt

Bullitt Member

Joined: October 28, 2014

Posts: 277

Likes: 10

From: Clarksville, Tennessee

I am about to start piecing this together. I was going the JLT route due to a bigger inlet, however once there is a front mounted intercooler in place it will not work.