Michael Follett

I have a base model mustang (V6), and of course, I had the infamous leak. I fixed the leak and made some changes, but my brake lights aren't working correctly. If I turn the light switch on, all the lights come on at a low setting, which is normal. However, when I apply the brake, doesn't matter if the car is on or off, I have the following order as to how the lights appear:

1st- High, 2nd- High, 3rd- Low 4th-Low, 5th-Low, 6th-High

Just prior to this, only the sixth light would come on and it would stay on unless I disconnected the positive terminal. Any ideas on fixes?

ford4v429

thats normal for the 3rd/4th, hopefully one filament just burned out in your 5th...if a new bulb there dont fix it (or check with a volt-ohm meter) its likely a damaged SJB or plug...pull it out, look for corroded/burnt pins, pop the covers look for trace damage? if just a pin corroded, might be able to clean it up, but would expect problems to eventually return- one the silver platings gone, connections get unreliable as corrosion inevitably returns... if you do replace the SJB, be sure to inspect the harness plugs- if one is corroded, you CAN pop the pins out with a proper tool and replace the corroded pin- Ive never done it on my car, but a lot of the robots and machines at work, sometimes its easier than a whole new plug...sometimes its not

Michael Follett

Thanks for the advice, I'll check the pins tomorrow. I know exactly what you mean when it comes to robots. I worked on Fanuc's and OTC's myself.

ford4v429

cool-small world weve got a lot of both old KAREL and R-J Fanuc robots, I always joked if they made cars, the big three would be in trouble... those Fanuc robots are pushing 80-100k hours, most are original, definitely a robust design. Ive been doing retrofits since back in the 6*B-2 days, even have a Bridgeport in my garage with a 0M-A on it- old 6047 drives I tinkered with to run single phase off a single 120 volt plug... just this past year, tinkered around at work with the OLD 185 volt 501/502 series size 10/20 servos, got the numbers tweaked to run off the 6058/6066/even alpha series drives- we scrapped out like literally 1000 old GMF robots, I talked them into keeping the servos/drives, finally getting to reuse them
My Favorite controls are still the old 6*B-2 and 0*-A, they were so easy to repair- but the last few years, Fanuc has been getting harder to buy board level components off of... we retrofitted around 400 0*-C controls over the years, we are still re-retrofitting them over and over... the membrane touch panels are getting harder to find surplus, eventually I'm hoping to get a big enough HMI with VGA port to put the whole mdi/crt and the op panel in one separate unit...will need a small PLC to decode the op panel, last 6MB-2 I did, I hacked a zero op panel onto, had to use the old 12 bit spindle output as the op panel LED drivers- as the old 6 otherwise used reed outputs that would never work switching that fast
if you ever need any help on a Zero, let me know- weve done some crazy stuff with them... weirdest was a 6 axis/dual path- I jumped all the input pull downs as pull-ups, plugged m2 on the slaved master board into M1 on the active one and vice-versa, just inverted all the outputs so they could communicate straight thru, rewired the op panel addressing to run off add'l I/O card on the active mother board- was weird but worked out great... we did another using newall spherosyn scales/continental proportional valves and vickers amps- effectively created dual 75 hp hydraulic 'servo' cylinders for a big 250 ton capacity driveshaft swage we built... we were all so proud of that thing, it only ran like 6 months and we lost the job to mexico...was cheaper for them to build a tube line at the mill than ship the tubes to us, even if we were dirt cheap on the processing

the whole tube line has sat there 10 yrs now, we fire it up every few years,do the dog and pony show thing for the folks that took the work-'wanting to buy our equipment', but in the end, think they just keep coming back to look closer... we had TIR checking, weld seam orientation, all kinds of stuff built in, think last time my boss offered them everything for $100k just to get the floorspace back(bet we had 250 in the swage alone- plus 2 4 axis face/chamfer mills, everything robot loaded, spare dies, turnkey), they came in, downloaded programs, got copies of schematics, took tons of pics, and disappeared back to mexico- that crap really frosts my a$$...guaranteed they were just fishing for ways to fix their problems (we ran all GMs driveshfts for like 20 yrs, knew a little about the pitfalls)

anyways, didnt mean to write a book- good luck on your SJB, hopefully it survived. last time mine leaked, I taped plastic above it to divert any future leaks away from the electronics- that corner of the mustang is prone to water seepage- cowl drains, cowl cover inserts, a-pillar weatherstripping, improper sealing of cowl corner by hood hinges...worst though will always be the stupid cowl drains... once they plug up, water drips on the harness, wicks along the harness under the carpet, right into the SJB plug... I cut some carpet padding, and bent the harness down/up a little under the carpet, so if it gets in that way again, the 'drip loop' should limit it to a wet floor...but finally just pulled the drains out and left them out- so far they have been 'self cleaning' now that the little 'dam' formed by the grommet is missing... just worried about mice getting inside, but being straight-up, would be tough... they got in my sons mark vii one winter, oh my God, what a job to pull that dash apart to clean the nest crap out of the plenum... that car seemed built around the heater core

Glenn

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