Very sharp, thanks for all the details and pics.

 

Thanks for the part #'s and links!!

 

No problem, hope it helps a few people!

 

This is awesome. I was wondering if I could just build those myself. Seems like I can now. Good stuff.

 

Went together pretty well. Having the parts list helps of course. If I figure out a better way to connect the ducting to the bezels (or if I find a PN for the Ford bezel duct attachment piece) I'll update the thread, but what I did worked just fine.

 

I think I'm about to try this mod myself. Several months after your last post, are you still happy with the set up? Anything you've changed or would recommend doing differently?

 

Only thing different I would do would be buy the lower inserts from blowfish racing now that they are available. Mine didn't have the backing piece to support easy ducting attachment. Otherwise it's been a great addition. Have had no rubbing issues or any issues to speak of

One of my next projects is to rig something up for rear brake cooling. I get a lot of heat on the rear brakes...

 

That sounds like an interesting venture.

 

After continued brake fade issues I've had at track outings this year, I did some research and found the 2011/2012 Mustang routing has a significantly larger inlet area compared with the fog light bezels I have been using. Additionally, the routing has fewer bends, so significantly less loss in the duct.

So I bought a set of 4" to 3" ducting reducers (basically the same as the JLT inlets) for $2.50 each on Amazon. I drilled out the side areas of the lower grill and installed as shown.

Based on quick measurements, it appears I'm gaining about 50% more area with these inlets compared with the FR bezels. A comparison show is below.

I also put in SS lines today, which should help stiffen the pedal a bit more too.

I'll be out again in just over a week to test the new setup. I'm hopeful that I'll FINALLY have no brake fade with this ducting setup.

Comparison


Passenger side routing - basically straight until taking a single bend to the brake disk:



Drivers side routing - also basically straight till the single bend to the rotor



Both installed and the FR bezels blocked off:

 

Nice work! So is that basically a JLT kit with a larger inlet you have on now?

I can't wait to hear how it works out for you! I've been pondering the JLT kit myself, as it's far more reasonably priced than that Ford Racing kit you just upgraded.

 

Yep, basically the JLT kit, but I made my own inlets for a grand total of $5... gotta love amazon and a little creative engineering.

I looked at getting a flow meter to try to collect some data to see what level of airflow I'm getting with the two setups at different speeds, but airflow meters aren't cheap... Also I meant to get caliper/rotor temps at Watkins Glen, but I forgot when I got there. So unfortuantely I don't have any real solid data to compare, but I'll certainly have qualitative data next week based on brake feel and durability over the course of the 2 days.

PLEASE NO BRAKE FADE!!

 

Good luck and I wish you no fade.

It be good to see rotor temps. I may try to get some of the color changing stickers from a coworker of mine next time I get around to doing a track day. I've been curious too. My pads are supposedly good to 1650 deg, but I get deposits on the rotors if I start pushing longer into the brake zones. So my guess is I'm north of 1700 deg. It would be good to know to see how effective the cooling is.

Before my next event I'll try some of these to get a better idea of where the caliper temps are:
http://www.vorshlag.com/product_info...roducts_id=708

 

hey dmichaels, this thread was a really good read. Thanks and good luck.

 

Thanks - happy to contribute and hopefully help a few others avoid the learning curve I've been on

 

So all I should need is the backing plates for each front wheel, the reducers from large tubes to backing plate, the tubes of my choice, and the canyon sized bezels that you bought and I should be good to go.

 

I wanna see machine guns and missiles shoot out that huge inlet. Nicely done!

 

Here's what I have installed right now:

High temp 3" ducting:
Backing plates: Backing Plates
4" to 3" ducting reducer - I cut the 4" section off, leaving a flanged 3" inlet. You can see the flange in my pictures - the 3" portion extends inwards

Add in a few zip ties and a 3" hole saw to cut through the grill (and A LOT of patience for connections and routing), and you've got yourself brake cooling.

I'll be out testing the new inlets and routing in just a couple days... will report back.

 

I've long wanted a couple of remote triggered paint ball guns installed in my Jeep bumper to help decorate the cars of those idiot drivers...

should get some nice flow through the new setup though. MAYBE just MAYBE I won't get brake fade finally. Sure would be nice to really push the car!!

 

My brakes have been feeling a little lacking lately for some reason. They don't have the bite that they used to have. I might have glazed the pads at some point. Time to take everything off and inspect. I think a backing plate may be warped too because I'm getting a slight metallic rubbing sound.

 

Rubbing sound from the front or rear? The rear pads have the little spring pieces which will rub the rotor when the pads get real low.