joseph07081

Good afternoon...

I am getting ready to pull the trigger on a suspension upgrade for my '13GT.
My goal is to get rid of a bit of the wheel gap without slamming it. I MAY take the car to strip at some time in the future, also may take it to the local track (Pittsburgh International Race Complex) just to stretch it's legs a bit. Mostly though I will just do some spirited driving on the twisty local roads.

I have narrowed it down to the following choices:

Koni STR.T
FRPP P Springs
GT500 Strut Mount
BMR Rear Lower Control Arm
J&M Adjustable Panhard Bar

Or:

Eibach Pro System Plus Kit
BMR Rear Lower Control Arm
J&M Adjustable Panhard Bar
J&M Adjustable Camber Plates

I am not looking for a huge drop and the FRPP springs give me about what I want for drop. Also, at this point in time I do not see myself going beyond the capabilities of the current GT sway bars.

Opinions please...

MDkid92

I would go with the Koni strt option you have listed. I don't think you need to spend the extra money on the set of cc plates for the other option. Plus the first option will be cheaper, but just as good.

Mr. V

I'd go with your first option. The konis have a lifetime warranty and have a great reputation. The eibach struts have a reputation for being very average.

duff

Opt 1, but I don't think you need the gt500 mounts with the strt's. I'd suggest anti-squat axle brackets instead, or in place of the bmr control arm.

Bocefus

Option 1.

Do u have the relo brackets for the lca's? Have u given any thought to UCA and UCA mount. Lowering will change your pinion angle.

Pandora's box has been opened.

joseph07081

OK.... thanks for the opinions.
As usual, I have strayed from the original options, but here is what I have ordered:

Koni STR.T shocks and struts.
Steeda Sport Springs (these are from Sam Strano's handling kit)
Maximum Motorsport caster/camber plates

BMR rear lower control arms
BMR adjustable panhard bar

Probably going with the BMR relocation brackets and still deciding on the upper control arm (hearing stories on how hard the upper control arms are to install).

Yes, the Pandoras box has been opened.

Stevedotmil

Adjustable Upper Control Arm is how you will get your pinion angle back into spec from ~~~> \ to ~~~> ----. If you don't get your pinion angle back to correct you will get binding on your U joint that is at the drive shaft connection and rear end.

Glenn

With the mild drop you are doing your pinion angle should be alright. This is from many sources.

joseph07081

That is one of the reasons I have held off so long on doing the suspension. I really did not want to get too complicated on the install.... I am a worry wart by nature and do not wish to introduce too many other issues.

That being said, I think that with this mild drop I will not be too far out on the pinion angle. If it turns out that way, I have a bit more confidence about correcting that.

Thank you for the info

joseph07081

Thank you.... from what I have been reading I feel confident that you are right.

All of the rest of the parts showed up today

Hope to get started on it this weekend.

Stevedotmil

I know that 1.5 is still considered the edge of mild for drops, just saying.

joseph07081

I have Steeda Sport springs.....
1" in front, 1.25 in the rear if I recall.

I will be watching the pinion angle though, just want to take these first couple of steps and see how the goes before throwing more parts at it. My biggest issues right now are the wheel hop and getting rid of some of the fender to tire gap. If the wheel hop is not cured with the lower control arms, then I will most definitely be putting in an adjustable control arm.... same goes if the pinion angle is off.

This will be my first suspension upgrade, never had the money before. I am being a bit cautious about throwing a ton of different parts at it and then introduce a problem that I am too inexperienced to diagnose or correct.....

Thanks again for the words of wisdom everyone. I really do appreciate all viewpoints and I know I am too much of a noob to not take advice when it is offered

DinoDoc

I got rid of the wheel hop with a set of lower control arms, but I also dropped the car 1.5" with a set of SR springs so I installed the Koni STR-T's GT500 mounts adj pan hard bar and a BMR UCA and mount. I love the way the car looks and handles now

joseph07081

That is a beautiful color..... I was never a fan of green cars but that color definitely has become one of my favorites.

MDkid92

that looks great. Haven't installed mine yet but am doing roughly the same. I didn't get uca. And is your windshield tinted? Looks pretty dark.

DinoDoc

Nope, just the side windows and the back.

shaun_beauchamp

OP: You will be fine with what you bought. LCA and LCA relocation brackets will help hook coming out of corners and hole shots. The adj panhard rod will put the rear "on center" for the most part. Remember to try and dial that in with 1/2 tank of fuel and weight equal to your body in the driver's seat (if you want to be as close to perfect as possible). The caster/camber plates are awesome. I think stock caster is 6.7 and you want it around 4 which is at the edge of aggressive for a street car, but turn in is greatly improved. You will probably run 1.5 camber and still not wear your tires yet have a flat tread pattern under hard turning. I would also look into upgrading your swaybars as your springs are not too stiff, so your ride will be nice, but you could make the car more flat in the corners with some sways. The Koni products are all great, so you'll love the ride. You probably won't need the UCA adjustable. I have one and it's set to the factory UCA length. The poly bushings in the UCA transfer more noise to the cabin than stock and it rattles a bit.

Be patient and have fun. My first suspension swap took me 6 hours (reading directions, finding tools, taking breaks). My last one took me 1 1/2 hours. I've done 8 S197s in the past 8 years. It's cake once you've gone through it once. If you decide to make changes, you'll be plenty confident after that first long day in the garage.