I have some questions about lowering my 2013 GT. after searching through a lot of forums still a little confused. Thus is my weekend cruiser, wanting to lower mainly for app

 

You would first have to ask said questions so that someone could come along and answer them.

 

Sorry finger hit the send button lol... Mainly for appearance and to keep ride quality, not for track or drag strip. So with that said what do I need? Springs (obviously), adjustable pan head bar? Camber bolts, plates?..... Thanks for any help

 

Depends on the drop that you are going for. I don't think you would need camber bolts or CC plates if the drop isn't more then 1 inch. I grabbed a PHB to realign the back after the drop. Springs will probably depend on your shocks, I grabbed the P springs and they work well enough, pretty stiff though since I drive around with my shocks at 4. See about asking Jay from Hypermotive, or TJ (I think) from Steeda, though I feel like Jay would be a little more impartial.

 

Steeda Sport springs will do a nice job of getting a VERY nice look compared to the 4x4 look of the stock springs.

Shocks/struts, I went with the Koni SPort adjustable units, but I probably could've gone with the non-adjustable SRT.T models and been the same, since I keep mine pretty soft, which is very close to stock.

As far as alignment, I just had mine done and the toe/caster settings were put right back into spec while the camber sits at only .1 out of spec, not suing any adjustable camber plates.
I'm using the GT500 strut mounts.

So, the set-up I'd recommend would be Steeda Sport springs, Koni STR.T shocks/struts, and GT500 mounts.

My car's current stance:

 

Thanks guys, been looking at eibach or the steeda with 1" drop up front and 1.5" in the rear. Are shocks/struts necessary or would stock be alright for longterm?

 

You might want to look at getting different shocks since the stock ones may not be able to properly dampen with the drop. Might end up with a bit of a harsh or bouncy ride.

 

Look at BMR springs if you want a drop and keep the stock ride quality.

 

how much drop did you do. looks nice.

 

Steeda advertises their Sport springs as being a 1" drop in the front and 1.25" in the rear.

I didn't measure before/after, but I think it dropped a little more than that ...

 

How about with a track pack? Would shocks still be necessary with steeda springs?

 

Yes, struts and shocks are still the same from my understanding. However, even for only appearance you should get a good set of struts and shocks. You want to enjoy your car, feel comfortable driving on any road regardless of how low you are. Better dampers will give you that feeling and comfort and... peace of mind knowing you wont have to switch out dampers later on. Steeda makes great springs and eibach springs are good as well. CC plates are unnecessary for your goals and with a conservative drop any alignment shop should be able to get into spec.

Either way, let us know if we can help you out.

Jason

 

I'm looking at doing the same with the Steeda sport springs. What did you end up doing? TIA

 

dbl post. sorry

 

I'll be honest, I did the springs and just the Panhard Rod. I intended to build it around that, but in the end, it's all I've done, and it's been almost 10 months.

 

Yes, you can do just springs, however we do recommend that you change a few other parts, especially to get the most performance/best ride out of your new springs.

An adjustable panhard bar will help re-center your rear-end after the drop. Our's is made in the USA and features a lifetime warranty.

Heavy-duty upper strut mounts are much stronger than OEM mounts and will also allow you to adjust your camber +/- 1 degree after the drop. Too much negative camber will increase inside tire tread wear. Though you do want some negative camber for increased handling.

We also recommend an upgraded set of dampers to go with the new springs as the stock dampers are designed for the stock spring rates. Your ride quality will not be as good with stock dampers and aftermarket springs as it would with aftermarket springs and dampers.

Is this your daily driver or weekend car? Do you track it? (drag, autocross, etc.)

Please let me know if I can help you with anything.

Best Regards,

TJ

 

You'll be much happier pairing up those new springs with some new struts/shocks, as the others have said.

My stang's suspension includes Koni Yellows (2011+), Steeda Sport Springs, Steeda HD Strut Mounts (2011+), Steeda Adj Rear Swaybar, BBR Billet LCAs, Steeda Adj UCA & Mount,FRPP LCA Relocation Brackets and J&M Adj Panhard Bar. I'm extremely satisfied with the look and handling of my stang and would highly recommend the same setup for anyone looking to do some occasional serious driving. Below are a few photos.

 

Your Boss looks sweet!

I dropped mine from 6.5 inches in the rear to 4.3 inches….thats from to ground. The front from 6.3 down to 4 inches. Koni coilovers rear wit 225 lbs springs. Front are Koni inserts with 450 lbs springs.

 

Always a mixed bag question,half the people say you don't need anything else half say you need everything.I went with eibach pro kit,it did a nice drop.
Since everything is new,i didn't change anything else,not even pan hard bar.A little stiffer ride,hardly noticeable,which i liked.alignment went right back to spec,(tech said it was hardly out) and rear end shift was not an issue.My car is new,springs and struts are new,if they wear faster,so be it,not going to throw new parts in the trash.
Struts and shocks are easy to change and don't really take a lot of time.I recommend just do springs and see how it feels,if you feel a huge difference and don't feel you can live with it,then do struts and shocks.In the end,i think you will be just happy with springs only.

 

As with anything, you can do too much and you can do too little. I'd say the minimum for a long teen solution is springs( I like my steeda sport), Koni strt( I have the sports and they are probably overkill), and gt500 strut mounts. Grab some camber bolts as cheap insurance and you are in good shape. I've installed just springs and it accelerated the wear on the shocks and I had to do the work again. Of you are paying, you are paying twice. If you do it yourself, it's simply a pain in the buttocks.