I am looking at getting a more aggressive stance for my mustang. I currently have Eibach Pro springs and the stance is definitely much better than stock. I want to get more aggressive. You guys have some pretty sick rides and I want to emulate the stance.

When I put in the Eibach's I did not have to add anything else and kept everything else stock. The alignment was good and no uneven tire wear.

Do I really need CC plates and an adjustable panhard bar for the H&R SS springs? The car is a daily driver. No tracking at all. I occasionally drive it hard, but that's on freeway on ramps and stop lights.

It may not be worth it to me to add all the other components to get it an inch lower. CC plates are over $300 and the panhard bar is $120 plus the cost of the springs. I got my Eibach's from a buddy for $80.

 

Yes, I would highly recommend getting cc plates and a PHB for this setup along with an adj. UCA. Its a very aggressive spring set, dropping you over two inches. You'll alter the rear diff pinion angle with that low of a drop and you're just about guaranteed to kick your rear end one way or another.
Give us a shout, we can set you up with a great package with these springs. The package deals will save you a bit of money and offer a great upgrade to the components that need to be replaced with a spring set like these.

 

Thanks Jay. That is what I was afraid of. Adding UCA's are also going to set me back some. Looks like I am sticking with the Pro Kit.

 

No problem brother. Hotchkis sport springs drop just a tad lower which is what I used to run on our Boss and 2011 GT.

 

I have H&R SS Springs on my car and you need camber plates, $300 sounds like a lot but it will save you $600 in tires. I also put in an adjustable panhard bar, just to be safe and center the rear axle.

 

Jay, what is the advantage of changing the upper control arm? It needs to be changed because of pinion angle correct? What happens if you don't change it?

 

Pretty sure you wreck the diff since the pinion won't be aligned properly. This is from LS1tech: If the vibes are bad enough, you could wear out the pinion bearings, u-joints and tranny tailshaft bushing.

Think you would also be down on power since it wouldn't be as efficient.

 

B is right, correcting the pinion angle will help prolong the life of your diff. Incorrect pinion angle puts undue stress on your diff and gears, you won't notice anything at first. I've seen many postings and arguments where guys would say they're fine, they've been like this for 5k miles and have had zero issues. 2 months later those same people are making a thread asking why they have such a loud whine in their differential.
The UCA and mount is the heart of the rear, whatever your car does it is affected.

 

Thanks for the explanations guys. Do the lower control arms also need to be adjusted? Or only if you worry about launches and getting traction?

 

No need for adjustable lowers, non-adj. will work perfectly. Shoot me a pm if you need any help.

 

What about the relocation brackets? Sorry if I'm thread jacking, but I figured this is good information for everyone. I'm looking at the sportlines myself which aren't at low as these h&r's but I wanted to make sure I did it right you know.

Also are the adjustable uca's interchangeable between 05-10 and 11-14? I'm trying to put together a package that'll be easy to switch over to 5.0 when the time comes (minus springs since the weight of the engine is different).

 

UCA and Mount is different between the 05-09 to the 10+. Relocation brackets will help the angle of the LCA's when lowering with aggressive springs.