Do I need or do you recommend that I add UCA's and LCA's? What's the benefit to adding these?

 

LCA's at for eliminating wheel hop. UCA's I have no clue about. I have H&R super sport springs, and you will need caster cambers or camber screws if u choose these. They lower the car 1.7" in front and 2.4" in the rear. I had Steeda ultralites on my 07' and didn't need anything to correct the camber.

 

As said, LCA's are for wheels hop. I know an adjustable UCA helps so you can adjust your pinion angle for your driveshaft.

Alot of people just use camber bolts but I would opt for caster/camber plates.

 

I put the Eibach sportlines on mine and it lowered it 1.6f and 2.0r. I didn't need caster camber plates or bolts. It was still within tolerance. My alignment did need adjusting but I didn't need any additional hardware.

 

Thanks for the help. Let me make sure i understand tho...LCA's and UCA don't have to be added but can be to help with wheel hop, and an adj. UCA will be helpful if i add a one piece driveshaft.

Mainly get some camber caster bolts and that's about it.

 

i saw a thread once that cited specifics about UCA's and LCA's. LCA's are good for drag and wheel hop but you can use UCA's to help with cornering, responses and balance. One UCA points one way but another UCA points the other way. Both offer different handling.
but if you really wanna know just talk to sam strano.

 

some people say they are overkill on a street car tho.

 

Or not?

The suspension is one of the first things that should be addressed with these cars. The stock setup is far from decent.

 

Why do you say that?

 

I'm not saying it's **** but it's not the greatest. Also, for better street performance you're not going to run the stock suspension components. I also don't like keeping vehicles 100% stock.

 

I couldn't agree more

 

Lowering cured my wheel hop.....and transformed my car's handling.

 

Those items aren't required when lowering your Stang. However, I would STRONGLY suggest you get an adjustable pan hard bar. I used Steeda Ultralights on my car and the side to side adjustment was out by 1/2" BEFORE I installed the springs. After the springs and Koni's were installed, it was out by 5/8". This meant my passenger side wheel was almost sticking outside the fender while the drivers side was tucked in.

The LCA's, as mentioned, will pretty much cure wheel hop. However, they also help greatly with traction. Once you lower your car, you will typically lose some traction as the angle from the forward LCA mount point will be higher than the rear mount. You want the forward part of the LCA to be higher than the rear. This helps force the car to jump forward. But if you go with LCA's, I'd also recommend LCA Relocation brackets. Just installing after market LCA's won't cure the forward to rear mount difference.

The UCA isn't needed just because you lowered your car. However, As part of continuing to improve traction and keeping the rear end centered within the front/back edges of your wheel wells, and also to help increase traction by having the proper pinion angle on even the stock driveshaft, I am personally going to install one.

Because once you ditch the stock springs and struts/shocks and install an adjustable PHB along with your new lowering springs and struts/shocks, you will readily see that Ford left a tremendous amount of performance on the table by compromising for a bit softer ride.

Ignorance is bliss on this one. The only thing I didn't like about my 2011 GT when I first bought it was the excessive nose dive and rear end squat. The first thing I did was install lowering springs, which greatly reduced both conditions. Then, I went with the Koni STR.T's, Adj PHB and LCA's with brackets and the difference was HUGE.

On this 2.7 mile closed road, old military road leading to a decommissioned firing range, there were two sweeping corners I couldn't exit faster than 90mph on with the stock set up. The slight bumps and one off camber portion would overwhelm the stock suspension.

After the suspension mods, I was coming out of them at 110mph. I could of come out a lot faster if it weren't the lack of lateral support with the stock seats. My butt was sliding out of the seat, so I had to slow down. According to my iPad, I was pulling .91g stock and 1.02g after the mods.

 

^^Very good increase in lateral g. Thank you for adding on to my point to upgrade the suspension right away.

 

@ vtxfrank what strut mounts did you choose? I've got FRPP 1" drop and adj panhard. My '11 gt just became a commuter, 100 miles a day. Need to improve ride quality. I drive mainly on elevated expansion joint bridge. Feels like 24 miles on a horse. Lol. Thanks in advance, and your service. NSDQ.

 

His signature says GT500 strut mounts.

 

Ahh. Thank you sir.

 

Thanks guys

 

Here's a link for ya. Usually the cheapest at LMR. But when American Muscle has the same price plus free shipping, you may want to use them. No matter where you end up getting them from, make VERY sure you get Part Number M-18183-C. Not the M-18183-A.

BTW, you ever been in the unit?

NSDQ!!

No problem, brother! Thank you for your continued service to this Nation of ours! Be safe and keep us up to date while you're deployed, if you can!