Thanks D, good writeup! I appreciate your explanation of the changes you experienced as you went from street tires to slicks.

I personally don't think I'll ever go to full slicks, and I don't own (or plan to own) a tow vehicle. BFG Rival or Bridgestone Potenza Re-71R is as sticky as I'll ever go. I will also stick with a square setup for longevity.

I certainly want to maintain the near neutral balance the car has from the factory. I like this balance to be slightly towards over-steer as well, since the car is easy to balance as you approach the apex with light throttle apply like you said (and under-steer is flat out annoying). Now that you mention it, I really don't have any complaints about the factory setup at corner exit.

So to be more specific about my goals, I want to nearly eliminate the pitch/dive on braking and hard acceleration, and lessen the roll by ~40-50% while increasing overall corner grip slightly, and maintain sharp turn in. Ha, I want it ALL!

Based on what you're saying I may not need to change sway bars then. Does that sound about right?

I'm also thinking about the effect of negative camber on turn in. Though it helps with ultimate grip once you're in a turn, would more negative camber cause slower initial response as you put in your initial steering?

 

This is what I can share you from my own experience, my goal was a spirited DD with some track time:
1.-The first change that is a requirement for our Mustangs, is to upgrade your junk stock shocks to KONI's, if it is just DD with some track time, KONI STRT's will take you there you will feel an immediate change (euro sport driving), a complete different handling and driving feeling . If you are planing for more track time, get the adjustable KONI yellows.
2.- My upgrade to wider 275/40R19 Michelin Pilot Super Sport tires, also was a day/night change, better handling, much better driving over standing water, long lasting, and no issues with my 1st-2nd. shift with the 3.73 gear, reduction of rear tire jump. Just some grove following with my wider front tires. (You can go a steep better with Extreme performance tires like Bridgestone Potenza RE-71R or Dunlop Direzza Zll, that will be my next steep, but the '35's probably will not go along with my 3.73 gear).
3.-My upgrade to STEEDA Sport Springs was a good one, better looks, lower height, less roll. But my GT's rear began to steep out to the right, when I red line from 1st.-2nd. shift. The car is lowered to 1" front & 1.25" rear.
4.-I got Strano's adjustable sway bars F&R. I will say that this will be a requirement if you are planing to track your car, it will help you to fine tune your handling. It will help you if you want to reduce understeer, oversteer, looking for a more neutral handling, and reduce roll. For a car that just is a DD, I will say is not needed, stock bars are OK.
5.-DO NOT overlook your brakes improvements, that was my biggest headache at the track, my brake fluid boiled and the pads that come with the stock Brembos are not sufficient for a track day, they will wear very fast. I already upgraded to HPS and ATE synthetic brake fluid for my next track event.
6.-Also a good alignment and the right tire pressures for the track will be most important don't forget it.
On my case I think that I don't need a pan hard bar (or watts link that is a much better choice), on the lowering of my car I measured the rear of my car and it was even both sides, measurements did not switched more toward one of the sides. But if you need to make this move, expend more $ for the better watts link, from what I read the pan hard bar, does not handle the same way if you are taking fast curves to the right VS the left, because of its geometrical design.
Wider squared setup wheels are widely recommended by all track guys, I believe this is correct, just be careful that you don't go over the limit (rubbing). I did not followed this route because I like my stock Brembo wheels and don't go to the track very often, and I'm not planing to have a second set of wheels/tires because of the $. But I know those Brembo wheels are heavy as pigs, but they look awesome, I just wish they were wider.

 

Thanks Hunter, all good points.

On the brakes, that's the first thing I did. I work with a lot of guys who track their cars a lot. First suggestion right out of the box was "get racing pads and DOT4 racing fluid" which I did with good success for the first 2 seasons. Then I followed up with SS lines and cooling shields which helped even more. Really glad I listened. I am yet to experience brake fade with my car.

As for bars, I'm leaning toward just doing the adjustable front and setting it to the softest or middle setting which would be about 17% stiffer than stock. I'll leave the rear sway bar stock for now, and if needed get an adjustable one which I could make softer later.

 

Which SS lines did you get? I've been seriously considering them. Already have GT rotors up front, and DOT4 fluid/

 

Hey Joey, I got the Russel SS lines. LMR has them at a great price

https://lmr.com/item/RUS-693380/Must...ar-05-14-GT-V6

I'm very happy with them. Pedal is nice and firm, and it certainly helps with heal-and-toe downshifting by aligning the brake pedal with the throttle.

I have 3 track days on these now and I have no complaints

 

I think those are the same ones I bought... although they might have been the ones I had on my old car. I know somewhere along the lines I bought Russell lines and liked them... SS lines are a good move

 

For only $130 I'll have to grab those. Just wish I didn't have to open a brand new container of fluid to do the install since I doubt I'll use the rest before it goes bad :/