CaptDistraction

;D

So I have a few things to install should I get the car back today:

Whiteline LCA relocation brackets
MM Panhard Bar (which might just be temporarily installed, it is indeed a rod end on either side, probably way too much for street - NVH)
J&M polyball LCAs (really interesting 3 different durometer bushings)
and (ordered today) Steeda front Boss-comp LCA's with their balljoints and poly bushings

On the whiteline LCA brackets, it seems there's about 1/8" of gap with the arm set in:


with the arm set in (the bushing cups want to push out to fill the gap, obviously not ideal


I bought some fender washers that are approximately the size of the bushing face and also would allow the bolt but not the crush tube through. I'm guessing I should use at least a pair to fill the gap, do I need to grease both sides to prevent any noise? Any thoughts on the plan there?

I think the rest of it will be cake outside torquing the suspension while loaded, that won't be fun.

Then on the front LCA's, it again looks to be a straightforward install, remove the spindle from the balljoint, remove front and rear bushing bolts, but anyone run into any issues or tricks?

CaptDistraction

Can I ditch the axle weights or do they still serve any purpose. Does seem like unsprung weight that's replaced by the bracket

CaptDistraction

So they're installed. Lets hope I never have to work on that part in the heat again. Trying to set torque on all those many fasteners at awkward angles wasn't fun (and I don't trust any of my torque wrenches, my decent one for engine building was abused by my lemons team, and the other is a harbor freight I trust for tires only). However 6 hours later I prevaled. Didn't need the washers surprisingly, but those 3 piece bushings were hell to get lined up. Its a 2 person job, as they kept wanting to explode with the force of a nuclear bomb whenever you pushed them in together. There were about 10 different hand tools involved in seating them properly.

I did keep the weights, but I'll remove them soon and replace with those bolts. I'm far too sore today to care about them.

Driving impressions? Totally worth it. The squats that added some bind in the drivetrain on shifts and a lot of kick are totally gone. The car shifts more smoothly, is easier to get moving from a stop, and overall grip is dramatically improved (more grip communicated). I haven't driven it too terribly hard, but I can tell noise is very slightly increased (can hear more tire noise), though drivetrain noises have decreased.

Some pics: (the angle is actually not as extreme as I was worried it would be. Though with the sportlines, my before angle was very extreme causing all sorts of drivability issues):

I didn't install the PHB as I just was not wanting to listen to the differential after all that hard work, it was well over 100* still at about 1AM when I wrapped up.

mikeyt03

Are j&m's Greasable on the car? Do the have grease fittings?

Brandon302

You can ditch the weights, also I thought the relo brackets came with a thick washer, either that or WL's LCA's come with the washer.

jsimmons

Since it looks like you got it done, you probably no longer have any questions.

I put the WhiteLine brackets and SR Performance LCAs on my car (looks like we also have the same sway bars - Eibach, right?). I had a shop verify pinion angle for me. Changing the geometry of the LCAs made the car VERY loose, and even with traction control on, I can do a pretty impressive burnout (3.73 gears).

I'm going to be putting the Steeda front LCAs and bump-steer kit on my car tomorrow. After that, I think I'm going to be ready for my first autocross event (suspension wise).

The last thing I wanna get for the rear is a watts link (probably a Fays2).

Have you installed your front LCAs yet?

Brandon302

If you can easily do a burnout that doesn't make it loose, means the power is getting to the ground.