lakeguy77

So I'm researching suspension and my mind is being twisted in knots right now. Springs/struts, fine. Pick the drop, find a nice matching strut. Put a panhard bar on it. Done, you're dropped.

When it comes to control arms though, I'm noticing a lot of options. Steeda, for example, makes 3 different types of fixed lower control arms. BMR makes 3, J&M makes 2, Ford Racing makes 3. Whiteline make adjustable ones. One of the ones Ford Racing sells is the GT500 ones, which I will already have on my Track Pack...does this mean I'm set for LCA's and can move on to the uppers? I'd like to limit NVH with my options, so if the GT500 ones are already a suitable upgrade for the street and one or two autocross events per year, I'll stick with that. I understand the need for brackets on a lowered car. That part makes sense.

Upper control arms, These all seem to be adjustable, is this where you make your adjustment to the driveline angle in the rear once you're lowered? What's a good option that keeps the noise down?

fdjizm

I'd stay away from adjustable lower control arms.
You have to worry about getting them exactly the same, and there is really no need when there are plenty of adjustable upper control arms in the market which is a single center point to adjust.

When you're lowered your lower control arm angle changes and also your pinion angle.
That is what the adjustable upper is for.
If you're lowered to the point where your lower control arm is on an up angle towards the axle then you're messing up your traction.
You want them level or facing just a bit down towards the ground on the axle side.
For that you need some lower control arm relocation brackets.

lakeguy77

Thanks for that clarification. So would it be a fair assessment to say that once I'm lowered, look where I'm at and just get some brackets, since I already have GT500 arms? I'm looking at a mild drop, 1-1.25 in the rear depending on what spring I go with.

Jay@Hypermotive

LCA's are pretty basic in the area of technology. Strength and stiffer bushings is what you'll notice but you'll notice more of a different with a UCA and mount. Many don't see the importance of the UCA (out of sight, out of mind) but it plays a vital role in the rear suspension. The new BMR UCA that was just released is a powerhouse!


Anyways, you want to choose a suspension with parts that compliment each other. That's why we're here Let us know what your goals are and we'll set you straight, plus we're not biased to any one particular brand.
So with that, what are your goals?

lakeguy77

My goals:
1. I want a small drop, about an inch, to reduce the wheel gap. Currently flipping back and forth from Eibach pro kit, steeda sport, and Ford P springs.

2. I need a comfortable ride, as I drive a couple hours to the lake and back every weekend in the summer. So struts are a must. Debating fixed (koni or steeda) or adjustable (koni)

3. I autocross once or twice a summer for kicks, but have a couple roads that I bomb down several times a summer. They're roughly paved, tight/windy, lots of elevation changes...for this reason I'm considering a watts link instead of a panhard bar, though the cost is a little daunting.

So with the above in mind, I'm wondering if the track pack lca's are sufficient, and just do the upper, or if I should go with a panhard bar, upgrade upper/lower control arms and some other minor improvements and gain 80% of the control/predictability of a watts link at 50% of the cost.

Thanks for any advice you can offer.

lakeguy77

Cliffs notes version:

1. Reduce wheel gap conservatively.
2. Comfy highway ride.
3. Back road bombability (made that word up)

tj@steeda

Lakeguy,

You are looking at several different Steeda parts ...we can put a package together, full of Steeda parts, that all compliment each other very nicely. Free of charge ... you can reach me at tim@steeda.com

We would recommend that you run the 555-8215 sport springs, 555-8405-11 pro action shocks, 555-8135 upper strut mounts.

Run the 555-4405 LCA & 555-4112 UCA so you can set the pinion angle properly.

You cant beat the stability a watt linkage offers in high speed transitions, but you could go with either the watts or the PHB.

Let me know your thoughts ... we can definitely get you dialed in.

Best Regards,

TJ

Brandon302

Go with Yellows if you're getting shocks, not sure if the sale is still going on, if so I am sure Jay can cut you a sweet deal. It will sound odd but I actually like hitting bumps now since the car just soaks them up.

lakeguy77

That's the real advantage to adjustable's that I'm weighing. I likely won't change em once I've got them dialled in, but at least I'll have the option to dial them in and get them exactly right to how I like them.

Rog13GTCS

All the sites I've seen for the Koni sale say through 5/31/2014. Last weekend I installed my LCA's with the poly bushings on both ends, and I have not noticed any NVH with them. I had also installed the panhard bar and brace. I can tell with just those mods, the rear end is more firm, and more planted.

I dont think you can go wrong with any of the LCA's you mentioned: Steeda, BMR, Metco, and Whiteline - but might want to stay way from adjustable lowers, as one of the other members recommended.

You probably want to shy away from the LCA's with spherical bearings, as I've read they will transmit more NVH.

I dont have the upper arm yet, will be that doing that in the future (this year).

Jay@Hypermotive

For this week only we're offering an additional discount (a forum discount if you will) on top of the Koni sale


We offer some great suspension systems for every type of driver. We personally like BMR but then again, they're one of the best in the industry. For springs, Steeda/ Vogtland are some of the best but hyperco springs too are some of the best out there. There are plenty of options!