Avi:

Are you saying the FRRP bump stop is pressed into the Gabriel boot such that the flat of the stop is flush with the top of the boot? I was able to easily press the stop into the boot like Gabe's right hand picture. Not sure I can force the stop any further...at least while it's 30-40 degrees here...the boot material is very stiff at these temps.

Thanks for the tip on the socket set....That will definitely help the install.

Wayne

 

Avi:

Thanks again for the tip on the sockets....just ordered the set and found a $5 off discount code.

 

Wayne,

I did not use the gabriel bump stop, I removed it from the bellow, the opposite side of the bellow slides on top of the bump stop snugly, after you install the mount the top part on the bellow fits perfectly on the bottom part of the gt500 mount.



This is the photo of my struts assembled.

 

So you used the Gabriel dust boot but turned it upside down?

I'm kinda thinking that that's just another way to do this, and what I've done will certainly work just fine ... I really don't plan on taking things apart and swapping bump-stop position again ... it fit nicely into the GT500 strut mount underside, and there's very little space between the open bottom of the dust boot and the spring perch.
And I'm thinking that this space will go away once the strut is installed into the car ...

 

Gabe, you correct, either way is fine, the bump stop slides on the shaft that's all it does, you should probably never bottom out, cuz the springs are stiff enough, I took your picture and marked it up the way I installed it, here is a link on bump stop install instructions from FRPP

http://www.fordracingparts.com/downl...htM-5570-A.pdf

http://www.fordracingparts.com/downl...htM-5570-A.pdf

 

Danm ... you're gonna make me take them apart and swap the boots around ... lol

 

You don't have to, the stock stops are on top

 

I like the idea of the dust boot snapping into the underside of the mount and guaranteed to move with it.
As I have it now, if the car's movement somehow shifts the bump stop lower onto the shaft, then the top of the shaft is left exposed.

Plus, not that hard to install the compressors once the spring is already compressed by the strut mount, release the mount and flip stuff around, then re-tighten the mount ...

 

Cheers, enjoy the install the rewards are worth it, I am in love with my car all over !

 

Lol, thanks man ... I tried to un-do the strut top nut and wasn't really able to, guess I have it "nice and tight", lol.

So, I put on a nice heavy-duty zip-tie onto the top of each bump stop hoping that it makes it harder for it to slide down the shaft, and I'm done.

Tomorrow the forecast is Sunny and 67 degrees ... I think I'm finally gonna attempt the install myself.

And being a Monday there will be a lot less eyes to see me work on the car in the parking lot.

I'm more worried about doing the rear than the front ... not 100% sure how to support the car while I lower the axle on each side to let the spring out.

Was thinking of jacking up the car by the pumpkin, putting a jack stand under each jacking point in the rear, then moving the jack to either side of the rear axle as I need to lower each side.

Thoughts?


.

 

Gabe:

Did you order Koni's with the 2010 style shaft? Just wondering about the GT 500 hats. My yellows are for 2011+...so I'm hoping I can use part of the factory hat in conjunction with my MM CC plates.

I hear you about trying to figure out jacking points and where to put stands. Will be attmepting all this in the next 3-4 weeks. It was 37 degrees this morning....the concrete is very cold for laying on .

Wayne

Wayne

 

I ordered the 05-10 struts

 

O.K. Thanks

 

Here is my project for the day. Installed koni strt, frpp p springs, and my new shoes. Last weekends project was whiteline adjustable uca and panhard bar.

 

Gabe the rear is not difficult at all. It takes 30 minutes to do both. While under load undo the nuts for rear sway bars, the mounts shaped like a dog bone. Then undo the nuts on top but don't take them out all the way, you can start loosening them with box wrenches, I wanna say 15 mm and 7 or 8 mm to hold the spindle. Loosen the lug nuts now you can jack up the car remove the wheel and place a jackstand or second jack under the control arm. Loosen the lower nut with 15 mm box wrench, undo the top nut slide out the old shock and install the new one in. FYI make sure you install all the rubber bushings and washers from the original shock.

Torque everything back to original specs, then move to the other side. If you don't undo the sway bar and let it swing down the bolt for the shock does not slide out. Reinstall the two bolts for the sway bar dog bones.

 

 

Thanks for the tips ... I'm doing springs too which adds some complexity, and that's why I was saying to move the jack to either side so I can lower the axle to let the spring pop out and be able to put the new spring in ...

 

Gabe, put the car up on jackstands and put your floorjack beneath the pumpkin. Unbolt your sway bar bolts, remove the lower rear shock bolts, then lower the jack to allow the pumpkin to reach its lowest point. Leave the jack there to support it. Next step is go to one side or the other and push down on the axle and grab the spring out. Go to the other side and do same thing (it will be easier on the second side). The rear was not very difficult at all. I don't think the rear took me an hour total and i was in no big hurry. Hope that helps. Post up any other questions you have, as i did this project yesterday.

 

Thanks man, I was planning on doing the rear first since it seems to be more complex, although on a lift it would be so freakin easy ... lol

 

I'm assuming putting the jackstands under each rear jacking point (body seam) would be OK ?