roadrunner

I finally got my alignment pretty close to where it should be after lowering, but the toe setting is just barely out of spec. its supposed to be between 0.00* and 0.20*. My left front is currently at -0.01* and my right is at 0.06*. So my right wheel is good, but my left is barely off. So my first question is, is it even worth adjusting the left front?
And if so, about how much should i turn the tie-rod to get it inside of the spec range? I would only need to go about 0.02* of change, so im guessing i dont need to turn it much at all, but maybe an expert out there can chime in to be sure.
Also, i know the suspension needs to be loaded, so can this adjustment be done with the front up on ramps?

My camber is at FL -1.1 and FR -1.5. the spec range is 0.0* to -1.5*. so According to the computer, I'm "off" on my FR. but this is just fine regarding camber, right?


Full specs:
Camber: L -1.1 / R -1.5 ___ Spec range: 0.0 to -1.5
Caster: L 7.6 / R 7.5 ___ Spec range: 6.4 to 7.9
Toe: L -0.01 / R 0.06 ___ Spec range: 0.00 to 0.20

Ltngdrvr

For me, the alignment needs to be equalized side to side.

Brandon302

Would make the most sense to be perfect on both sides, ie. -1.5 both for camber and .06 for toe or -.01 both for toe and -1.1 camber.

roadrunner

I agree that would be ideal, but for now, as far as camber goes, I can't adjust that anymore. Only thing I can do is rotate the strut mount again but then i'd have more negative camber and be out of spec. Regarding the toe setting, I can change that, I just would like some tips with the questions I asked.

btw, i don't race, its mainly street/city driving. so thats why im okay with not having ideal settings, as long as its within the spec range. So i later this week i will try to adjust the toe. I will try to match the front left to the 0.06* on the right, or at least get within 0.00 to 0.06. so that would mean a change of about 0.03 to 0.05.

So about how much should i turn the tie-rod? this is where i need help cause i dont know how much the degree changes relative to how much you turn the tie-rod. What i do know is i need to turn it so that it pulls the wheel in more. Any tips?

Brandon302

I would look up the math on it, do a little googling. I know that degree for you may not be the same for me since it is based on the wheel itself. I had found it fairly easily when I looking into doing my own alignment.

Ltngdrvr

You're going to just have to try an adjustment and see if it needs more or less. Don't know of anything that says "1/2 turn equals .5 degrees..." or anything like that, it's trial and error.

roadrunner

see since my right front is perfect, and the only difference between the two is about .05degrees, and im only off the spec range by .02 in the front left, i kinda wonder if its even worth adjusting. i dont want to touch the front right.. my plan is to adjust the front left ever so lightly, and leave it at that. i did a little bit more research, and it seems a half turn of the tie-rod is a substantial change in toe... so i'll probably only do about a half of a half of a half turn or about 1/8 turn or less lol

Brandon302

That may do it, or you might be able to measure how much of the threads are showing on the correct side and see about matching it on the incorrect side. Not very scientific and might not work but worth a try.

AlsCobra

Wow you guys are insane with this stuff. Just pay the $50 and get it aligned. There is no way your tape measure or bubble level will get your alignment correct. If you want a custom setting, get whatever specs you want and give that to the alignment tech. I did all the alignments in every shop I worked in and you won't get it right without the proper machine. Get it done right one time and be done with it.

roadrunner

Thanks for your input, i guess. But it has nothing to do with my questions, and doesnt help at all.
Idk where you live but around here its at least $60.. And that on special. Average is 89.95. I already tried what you suggested too.. Doing right the first time. It was BS in my case. And that was at a dealership for $100!! The only good thing there is at least im getting a refund.(long annoying story)

Anyway, nothing more can be done regarding the camber unless i get CC plates. The caster is perfect. So literally all they would do is turn the tie rod on the left front wheel to fix the toe out. It is the only thing out of spec(barely). I got my readings from their machines because i went to different places that offered free alignment checks. And i had planned to get an alignment after the strut mount rotation, but since the second free check reading is so close to being in spec, i dont see it worth it to pay a guy $80 to loosen a nut, turn a rod, then tighten a nut. Specially since i plan to get CC plates later, in a few months(ill definitely get the alignment then). So this is good enough for me. In fact im thinking i may not even adjust it, its driving perfectly straight.

Aside from all that, i love learning about this stuff

AlsCobra

Camber and a toe setting will kill your tires quick. A cheap way to get a little camber adjustment is to elongate the top holes in your strut where it mounts to the spindle. I've done this way too many times to count. But honestly you're getting a lot of advise from people who have no idea how to properly align a car.

roadrunner

Thats the method for camber bolts too right? I had originally bought camber bolts.. But decided against it cause i didnt like the idea of grinding the struts. Im gonna leave thinga as they are and just pay off the suspension parts i have already. Then get the cc plates and few other things. Thanks for tip though!

Grant 302

I would try to fix the camber closer to -1* first for a street driven car. -1.5* is too much IMO for the street. Even though it's within spec, you will cord the inside edge of that tire early.

But if you want to leave the camber and only match the toe, I would turn the left side rod two 'flats' in which is approximately a +.05* adjustment.

Hope that helps.

BTW, if it were my car and keeping the camber where it is, I'd go for close to 0 toe on both sides. Turn the left side 1/2 flat in and the right side 2 flats out.

1 flat = 1/6 turn if that wasn't clear to you.

roadrunner

Thanks for the tips!!