I just changed calipers and brake lines on my 13 GT and cannot get any firmness on the pedal. I am using a Motive Power Bleeder and am following the usual sequence (RR,LR,RF,LF).

I was worried about leaks, so I attached my pressure bleeder and took it to 5psi. I let it sit for about 5 minutes and it didn't change. I then repeated at 10psi and about 13psi with the same result for slightly longer periods of time. No glaring leaks and the system held pressure.

I am assuming the system needs bled more. I have an ELM327 adapter and have used ForScan to swap my gauge cluster, previously. Now I am thinking about running the ABS Service Bleed and doing the electric brake bleed.

I can't seem to find much info on either proces, has anyone done this? I found a video or two on YouTube, but they leave me with some questions... Do you manually pump the brakes? Do you open and close the bleeder screw while it is cycling or leave it open until the caliper you are working on is done?

Any direction would be appreciated. I really don't want to send it to the dealership for ABS Bleed...

 

There is some special way to cycle the ABS to bleed it but I don't know the details, hopefully someone else might . . . it might be posted on here, try the search feature in the different sub-forums or from the top because it probably isn't in this sub-formu.

But normally that should not be needed; unless you really got a LOT of air into the system -- did a lot of fluid drip out while you had the lines open? Or if you pushed air into the system using the Motive that could do it, but hopefully that did not happen. I'm always very careful to make sure the reservoir does not go dry and I don't push a big bubble in from the tube.

I think I'd start by pushing a good amount of fluid through the system, like maybe 8 ounces per caliper; if you already did that then sorry I guess this doesn't help.

 

I don't think I lost an excessive amount of fluid while changing any of the components. I realize I didn't mention that I also installed a Hurst line lock. Same story though. I didn't lose much fluid and bled the whole system before moving on to the calipers and lines.

I've only bled about a litre through the system, so far. I will make another round and see how that helps. That is also why I am hoping to find some info on the electronic bleed and ABS Service Bleed. I do have an adapter and the software to do it, I'm just not clear on the process. The videos I have found aren't very clear and do a couple things differently. One requires two people, the other one didn't.

Thanks for your reply, I apprecite the insight!

 

hmmm . . . a liter is quite a bit, that is probably enough, just trying to be 100% sure that you have a good basic bleed before tacking the ABS module

 

I am going to bleed the system again. If I get the same results, I will bleed the ABS valve and do another flush, after... it seems that the pressure bleeder I bought was a good investment , lol.

 

I was able to work on this a little, this weekend weekend... for some reason I do not have the "ABS Service Bleed" option available in ForScan. I have an option to reset the module, so I did a couple of times (not sure if that helped) but that was the only option I had for ABS.


And of course, since I said I was very careful before, to not to let the mc run dry; I got distracted and let the pressure bleeder run dry on the last caliper (LF). Bone head move, i don't want to talk about it... lol

So, I reset the ABS module a couple of more times and bled the heck out of it again, but it's not great. Better than when I first wrote the first post, but it's obviously not right. One thing I noticed now, the mc makes a noise, when I press the brake pedal.

Any thoughts or advice would be appreciated.