Repair Manual for 2012 Boss 302?
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Repair Manual for 2012 Boss 302?
I like to know as much as possible about my rides. With my European cars this has usually resulted in my purchasing a Bentley, Haynes or factory manual. Besides being invaluable for the wrenching that I occasionally do, many of these manuals are a joy to read, as you will learn everything about your car. One of my more extensive Bentley manuals came in three volumes.
It was something like 3000 pages! Are there any good sources for modern Ford Mustang manuals? Anything that is updated regularly and would have detail on specialty vehicles such as the Boss 302?
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http://iihs.net/fsm/?dir=711 - You're welcome.
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Originally Posted by cloud9
I've already dug through that manual extensively getting ready for the track, particularly on the brakes, not to replace broken parts ![Thumb](https://themustangsource.com/forums/images/smilies/thumb.gif)
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They are on there right now except for the Goodridge braided SS lines and DOT 4 fluid
For the track event last weekend I had DBA 5000 2-piece front and 4000 rear rotors, Hawk DTC 70/60 pads and had to do a fluid swap for ATE Super Blue. I'm keeping my track rotors and pads separate. I was mainly confirming/checking torque specs for the caliper bolts and guide pin bolts.
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Track pads are a much more aggressive compound that will stop/slow the car in much shorter distances than street pads. However, they are designed to operate at higher temps than you can achieve in normal street driving. At colder temps, they won't work as well in a panic stop and you obviously wouldn't want that. On top of the safety issue, they will squeal like a Burlington Northern and wear out your rotors quickly. Track pads are also more expensive than street pads, so the cost of operating them for normal street driving would be higher and less effective.
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Originally Posted by cloud9
Track pads are a much more aggressive compound that will stop/slow the car in much shorter distances than street pads. However, they are designed to operate at higher temps than you can achieve in normal street driving. At colder temps, they won't work as well in a panic stop and you obviously wouldn't want that. On top of the safety issue, they will squeal like a Burlington Northern and wear out your rotors quickly. Track pads are also more expensive than street pads, so the cost of operating them for normal street driving would be higher and less effective.
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DTC pads are actual race-spec pads made to endure temperatures up to 1600*F. They do not work particularly well at lower temps like you would see on the street, and they tend to chew up rotors when cold.
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They just won't stop as well. If you're going to run the stock pads and rotors, follow the burnishing and bedding instructions in the Boss Owner's Supplement. Also follow their instructions and switch to a higher boiling point DOT4 fluid.
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Originally Posted by cloud9
They just won't stop as well. If you're going to run the stock pads and rotors, follow the burnishing and bedding instructions in the Boss Owner's Supplement. Also follow their instructions and switch to a higher boiling point DOT4 fluid.
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9/11/15 08:39 AM