Pagid brake pads. They have made pads that fit our rear calipers. I'm using RS29 for the front and RS56 for the rears. Peter at Northstar can set you up.

http://www.northstarmotorsports.com/

 

Just thought I would jump in with a question since I an heading to the event with Resolution78 (I have a Red Boss) and you guys are providing great info.

I chose to get ATE Super Blue and a Motive Bleeder. Still have stock DOT3 right now. The Subaru enthusiast/tuner at work said I should flush the system with a cheap DOT4, drive it hard, and then fill with Super Blue. That way I won't have to worry about Any DOT3 getting mixed with the Super Blue. I am not worried about the brake lines getting mixed, but I am with the clutch. Is it safe to bleed the clutch also? I have NEVER bled brake fluid before, but I really should before the event since I already see floaters in the reservoir from AutoXing.

Edit: Thanks for any help guys. AFM has become a useless forum with nothing but whiners and ego-strokers, at least in the 2011 and up forum section. It's great that the new Mustang attracted a lot of new people. Unfortunately a lot of them are new to big engines and have no clue. There was even one who complained about the engine bogging and vibrating when he shifts below 1000rpms.....My head hurts from face-palming every time I read posts over there.

 

Here is something I have adapted from my Corvette clutch experience and a technique that was developed by a guy that goes by Ranger for Corvettes to flush the clutch fluid. I have adapted it for the Boss as follows:
Between each release of fluid when you are flushing fluid in the brake lines, at the same time you are pumping up the brakes, also pump the clutch pedal twenty to thirty times before you open the valve each time to bleed the brakes.
I do not have solid evidence that this works in the Boss, but it works wonders in a Corvette and probably circulates better fluid to your clutch in the Boss too. In any case, it will not hurt to try.

 

Although the Vorshlag Mustang gets a lot of attention regarding the suspension and some on the power, we've actually done quite a bit to get the brakes in shape for the track - though after this weekend it looks like we will be going to a more aggressive track pad.

None of the Hawk pads held up. They either didn't perform at the temp rating or they didn't have any longevity at the temp they were supposed to be used in.



In April or May we switched to Porterfield R4 track pads and installed the brake ducts and that's worked out pretty well.





We've been happy with this setup for many events and had good longevity of the rotors and pads.

This weekend we cracked a rear rotor and it ended up overheating the rear pads. We don't swap rear rotors between track and street use like the front rotors, but it looks like we may start doing that.

 

I am wondering if the Hawks would have worked out if you had the cooling duct installed at the time. Which pads were you using? Are your track front rotors slotted?

 

Non slotted. May have worked without ducts, but because of the short longevity we had even when running on street tires we didn't want to use the Hawks any more. I advised Terry to avoid them based on the composition of them (lots of filler). I'm no fan of any of the Hawks and prefer Performance Friction pads.