break pads question for guys who tracked there boss
#1
break pads question for guys who tracked there boss
I'm headed to track my car at New Hampshire Motor Speedway with these guys
http://www.comscc.org/
i still have the factory pads on at 20k miles and getting ready to replace them before the event 13 october. I also will have added break cooling ducts to my boss before the event.
Since i dont normaly track that car alot "YET" i was wondering what you guys think of Hawk ceramic pads getting buy for the event..... i know the other versions will perform better at higher temps..... but kona boss with white LS rims that get dirty way to fast..... and i dont want pads i have to change out to go to the track.......but i will if i have to,
http://www.comscc.org/
i still have the factory pads on at 20k miles and getting ready to replace them before the event 13 october. I also will have added break cooling ducts to my boss before the event.
Since i dont normaly track that car alot "YET" i was wondering what you guys think of Hawk ceramic pads getting buy for the event..... i know the other versions will perform better at higher temps..... but kona boss with white LS rims that get dirty way to fast..... and i dont want pads i have to change out to go to the track.......but i will if i have to,
#2
All pads are going to dust a lot so I would not base my decision on that. I've used Hawk HP+ pads on the front and they were a nice improvement over stock. I had some minor brake fade with stock pads on my first track day and moved the the HP+ after that and didn't experience any fade with them. If you're just going to do a couple of track days a year they are a good option that mate well with the stock rear pads. They can squeal when cold though.
#3
What he said... and IMO you should upgrade the brake fluid also. This is probably is as, if not more important than the pads.
Two points on this, cooking the stock fluid can cause really scary braking situations you really don't want to experience. Second, on the Boss, the clutch operates using the same fluid as the brakes. Even if you don't cook your brake fluid enough to lose your brakes, it could affect shifting.
Two points on this, cooking the stock fluid can cause really scary braking situations you really don't want to experience. Second, on the Boss, the clutch operates using the same fluid as the brakes. Even if you don't cook your brake fluid enough to lose your brakes, it could affect shifting.
#4
What he said... and IMO you should upgrade the brake fluid also. This is probably is as, if not more important than the pads.
Two points on this, cooking the stock fluid can cause really scary braking situations you really don't want to experience. Second, on the Boss, the clutch operates using the same fluid as the brakes. Even if you don't cook your brake fluid enough to lose your brakes, it could affect shifting.
Two points on this, cooking the stock fluid can cause really scary braking situations you really don't want to experience. Second, on the Boss, the clutch operates using the same fluid as the brakes. Even if you don't cook your brake fluid enough to lose your brakes, it could affect shifting.
thanks for the backup....
its also interesting to learn that 5 dot o had break fade with the stock pads..... there deff getting changed before i go to the track.... one question for you 5 dot 0 did you have break cooling ducts on your boss and how much do they help...... i'd like to get buy with the standard Hawk Pads if possible..... unless anyone here can say they have tried them with a bad exp ( if not i guess ill try it out )....... second would be the HPS from 5 dot 0 these should be just fine...... the last track pads HP are alittle much for what i'm looking for
#5
I experienced some brake fade with the stock pads, brake cooling ducts and Dot 4 fluid installed. It was nothing major but enough to get my attention.
I'm referring to Hawk HP Plus not HPS pads. I don't think the HPS are much of an upgrade over stock pads when it comes to being able to handle more heat.
I'm referring to Hawk HP Plus not HPS pads. I don't think the HPS are much of an upgrade over stock pads when it comes to being able to handle more heat.
#6
Hawk ceramic
The Hawk ceramic pads will not work for you in a Road Race environment.I tried them a few years ago on my 03 Cobra.I have 2000R front brakes and ducts and it just would not stop.I was at Watkins Glen last weekend and someone I know with a 12 LS had just changed over to PFC 01 front and PFC 97 rear and is very impressed with them.I'm still on the stock pads with ducts and I do fine with them,but I'm not hard on brakes.I tend to more let the car roll.I'm also using ATE 200 brake fluid,it's reasonably priced and it works.
Good luck, Guy
Good luck, Guy
Last edited by gww52; 10/4/12 at 05:31 AM. Reason: reword
#7
Originally Posted by gww52
The Hawk ceramic pads will not work for you in a Road Race environment.I tried them a few years ago on my 03 Cobra.I have 2000R front brakes and ducts and it just would not stop.I was at Watkins Glen last weekend and someone I know with a 12 LS had just changed over to PFC 01 front and PFC 97 rear and is very impressed with them.I'm still on the stock pads with ducts and I do fine with them,but I'm not hard on brakes.I tend to more let the car roll.I'm also using ATE 200 brake fluid,it's reasonably priced and it works.
Good luck, Guy
Good luck, Guy
#9
#10
I went with Carbotech's RP2's for the fronts, OEM still pads in the rears
then Carbotech street pad for the street
......this way I dont have to "prep" the rotor for their track pad
I have three full track days on the RP's and LOTS of meat left on them.
http://www.ctbrakes.com/pads.asp
Definitely, upgrade brake fluid to something better than OEM fluid too
I'm using Motul 650
I was about to upgrade the brake lines (like I did on past cars) BUT I'm going to keep the Boss's "harden" brake line a bit longer.
Remove rear dust shields too
Shane M used the Hawk HP+ pads only once and they did not make one track day. This came as a BIG surprize to me, as I used HP+ on my CTS-V for several years no issues....I guessing that Hawk changed the material. Terry Fair of Vorshlag had same experience with HP+ on their 2011 Mustang GT
then Carbotech street pad for the street
......this way I dont have to "prep" the rotor for their track pad
I have three full track days on the RP's and LOTS of meat left on them.
http://www.ctbrakes.com/pads.asp
Definitely, upgrade brake fluid to something better than OEM fluid too
I'm using Motul 650
I was about to upgrade the brake lines (like I did on past cars) BUT I'm going to keep the Boss's "harden" brake line a bit longer.
Remove rear dust shields too
Shane M used the Hawk HP+ pads only once and they did not make one track day. This came as a BIG surprize to me, as I used HP+ on my CTS-V for several years no issues....I guessing that Hawk changed the material. Terry Fair of Vorshlag had same experience with HP+ on their 2011 Mustang GT
#11
Shane M used the Hawk HP+ pads only once and they did not make one track day. This came as a BIG surprize to me, as I used HP+ on my CTS-V for several years no issues....I guessing that Hawk changed the material. Terry Fair of Vorshlag had same experience with HP+ on their 2011 Mustang GT
I have new DBA 4000 rotors and Pagid pads I'm installing this weekend. As my speed has picked up I felt it was time for race pads and rotors. My car is not daily driven and I'm hoping the Pagid pads will not squeal like a pig on the street.
#12
Originally Posted by JPC
I went with Carbotech's RP2's for the fronts, OEM still pads in the rears
then Carbotech street pad for the street
......this way I dont have to "prep" the rotor for their track pad
I have three full track days on the RP's and LOTS of meat left on them.
http://www.ctbrakes.com/pads.asp
then Carbotech street pad for the street
......this way I dont have to "prep" the rotor for their track pad
I have three full track days on the RP's and LOTS of meat left on them.
http://www.ctbrakes.com/pads.asp
Last edited by wheelman; 10/4/12 at 11:09 AM.
#13
Agree on the Carbotechs , but would go with an XP 10 or XP 12 on the front and XP 8 on the rear. I use the XP 20 myself , but I am deep on the brakes and they have real strong initial bite. Most are happy with the 10s or 12s , but they are easier on the rotors than Hawks.
The one thing no one is mentioning is whether you have chatted with folks that run at New Hampshire. Not a track I have run, but it is also important to check with track rats to see whether a track is hard on pads/rotors , or relatively easy on such. Example -- not surprising to go through a set of pads or more at Road America.
Definitely flush the brakes and use a high quality DOT 4 like Motul, etc. SRF is the best route , but it is a on the pricey side.
Carbotech is a family run company situated just North of the Charlotte Motor Speedway ( about a mile ) , and there are alot of racers in Grand Am and World Challenge using them on their Stangs. Cindi Lux , who is one of the lead instructors at Miller ( and in my estimation the best instructor in the US ), recommends them highly.
The one thing no one is mentioning is whether you have chatted with folks that run at New Hampshire. Not a track I have run, but it is also important to check with track rats to see whether a track is hard on pads/rotors , or relatively easy on such. Example -- not surprising to go through a set of pads or more at Road America.
Definitely flush the brakes and use a high quality DOT 4 like Motul, etc. SRF is the best route , but it is a on the pricey side.
Carbotech is a family run company situated just North of the Charlotte Motor Speedway ( about a mile ) , and there are alot of racers in Grand Am and World Challenge using them on their Stangs. Cindi Lux , who is one of the lead instructors at Miller ( and in my estimation the best instructor in the US ), recommends them highly.
#14
Originally Posted by Fastoldman
Agree on the Carbotechs , but would go with an XP 10 or XP 12 on the front and XP 8 on the rear. I use the XP 20 myself , but I am deep on the brakes and they have real strong initial bite. Most are happy with the 10s or 12s , but they are easier on the rotors than Hawks...Carbotech is a family run company situated just North of the Charlotte Motor Speedway ( about a mile ) , and there are alot of racers in Grand Am and World Challenge using them on their Stangs. Cindi Lux , who is one of the lead instructors at Miller ( and in my estimation the best instructor in the US ), recommends them highly.
#16
It is good to hear that HP+s aren't all that bad for driving to and from the track, but how are they for daily driving. I took my car to Summit Main with HPS's on and I loved them. They did feel similar to stock on the first few runs, until they got some heat into them, and that's when they began to shine in my eyes. I felt them bite harder and with less pedal travel then when cold and they did the job well IMO.
#17
#18
I guess that might be the deciding factor, I had heard the best way to work with track pads would be to have a set of track rotors mated to the pads, rather then rebedding the pads every time you want to go to the track.
#19
I swap rotors with the pads and it's a PITA. Hopefully with my new Pagid setup I won't have to swap them out. Stay tuned.