John, since you are the first person I have seen with the Vorshlags, is what I have read correct about needing to drop the strut in order to adjust camber due to the bearing size and the mustang shock tower diameter being narrow. I am leaning towards the Vorshlags either way mainly because of the additional range of adjustment over the MM plates and I am not scared of running up to -3 degrees of camber on the street so dropping the strut for adjustment is not that big of a deal for me as I will set it and forget it.

 

I don't have to do that... but I can see how others would. If you move the caster adjustment, you can get full access to the camber bolts and thus move it in and out. Not optimal, but not the end of the world either.

That hole in the strut tower is REALLY small.

 

You guys can hog out the strut tower hole with a dremel if you need more travel; this is a common mod.

 

Got a set of ST43's after Steve from LPI Racing talked me into them. Thirteen 25 min or so sessions on these. They held up very well I think.
Inside pad



Outside

 

Thirteen sessions is barely over a weekend. Those look OK, however. How are your rotors holding up?

 

Thanks, whats the max negative camber you have been able to get out of them?

 

2.8* at stock ride-height.

 

Wow, you must run with some good groups there. Many groups here have 4 sessions a day five is good. Getting 6-7 with HOD here is as good as it gets!

I had hoped the pads would be a little better but I am not surprised or disappointed with the results of these. I will need to see what they do at Sebring since that is a fast track with a few hard braking zones.

I used the same Powerslot rotors this weekend I had used with the crap Hawk DTC 30 pads and they had hurt the rotors bad for just one day. So it is hard for me to tell how hard these ST43 pads were.

Since the slotted Brembo rotors (with the Ford part number on them) that I started out on are still good I have not burnt out a set of rotors on the Boss yet. Until I burn up a few sets I will be able to tell you how the pads are against them, this is still new to me. I will try to post some picture but I do know they look worse with three days then the Brembos with 15 days.

 

This chsssis does well with some toe out at the track--really improves turn in. Because of this, I find the best setup is 0 toe at your street setting, which is best for tire wear. Then at the track you dump the camber plates inboard to your track camber setting, which adds ~1/16 or so of toe out. Best of both worlds.

 

Yeah if we run Time Trials in addition to HPDE, we're running 6 sessions a day on Sat and Suns; there is usually a Friday practice day as well where you can squeeze in another 4 sessions for the weekend.

Anyways keep us posted on how those pads last, you are running some nice high-speed tracks so they are going to need to endure some punishment!

 

For those of you that don't want to swap pads/rotors, I've been driving around for a week on my DTC 70/60s and new DBA 5000/4000 rotors to get some heat into them slowly before bedding them and then tracking them. I've noticed two things so far:

1) Stopping power is better than the stock pads, even when cold.

2) Squeal is minimal, especially compared to how they were on my GT500 on the street. In fact the wife even commented how little they squealed.

Now the one caveat will be wear. I'm assuming they'll wear the rotors and pads faster than the stock pad/rotor combo. The upside is saving two hours at the front end and after track events. To me it's worth the tradeoff at this point. Will advise again after more miles.

 

That's great news! This will be on my install list after I get a time at willow springs to prove that my h&r setup is quicker over stock

 

I broke in my I broke in my DTC60s with some stock blanks as my dedicated second set for 3 Weeks for the same reasons. I had very little squeal once they warmed up, and I saw almost no wear. I plan to drive to the track with this set up, mainly because most of the driving is highway here in TX.
I will be at TWS this weekend for the Track Guys event. I am going to bring my street setup just in case I burn through the 60s.

 

I am really liking this PF01/PF97 combo. Pads don't seem to wear much at all, and the rotors look GREAT if you can keep the pads at temp (might actually involve partially closing the brake duct w/ tape on certain tracks).

Bonus video whoring below:

 

PFC01's are freaking amazing.

I just wish they were not so expensive. Don't get me wrong they are totally worth every penny and I will continue to run them but the recent price hike sucks!

 

I just wanted to say thanks to all of you posting your experiences with the various pad combinations. I'm going to go for the PFC01/97 combo whenever my car arrives. (And I'm just watching track dates slide by...)

 

Not sure what the hike is about, but I'm getting the PF01s for $301 from www.topbrakes.com , they're only slightly more expensive than the DTC70s I replaced.

http://topbrakes.com/searchResults.p...nufacturer_id=

Right now I am 2nd in points in my TT class despite missing 3 days of competition. The only drivers that have run faster in my class have fully prepared race cars (one is an ex Turner Motorsports E46, the other is a 911 GT3 Cup). I love this car.

 

Shaun,

did you dual duty with the 01's?

I ran PFC 97's dual duty on my last track / street car (though it was a lighter car...a boxster)...had about 10 track days and 5k street miles and the pads still had about 50% material remaining. I had no degredation of braking performance on the street - though some very mild squealing - and the were great on track.

 

Can't answer for him but I am swapping the front/rear pads and front rotors at the track.

 

I'm trying to remember the name of the brake hose brand someone mentioned that has the metal reinforcement? I thought I had that in a thread somewhere.