Slightly better price for the gauge pod
http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/item/M6304GPACKMA/2010-12-Mustang-Ford-Racing-Boss-302-Gauge-Pack

Yes. Do you have a photo??? My car will be garaged and I don't have much use for the CC. If I want one I buy it later but I doubt it unless it's super cool looking. I'll use that money for the gauge pack instead. :nice: Anyone know if the gauge pack will be plug and play?

It looks to be. Not sure where it connects though.

I hope through the computer under the dash.

Exactly!:nice:

I hope that it doesn't occupy the OBD2 port.

+1:metal:

Well I have the originals but for the money not worth it. I am hoping to find a custom set in better quality with heavy backing. I am not real good with the computer stuff but for a general idea of what I would like here are some pics.

I think the mats would look good with the same logo that is on the seats place on the mats high or low like this. The color could match the car, red for LS and red cars, blue, white, yellow and orange.

You know, I used to go nuts over mats too, until I realized the only time I noticed them was when I put them in and when I shook them out!

+. -. and connections to the water temp and oil pressure sensor and dash lights are all that's needed for the guage pack. Shouldn't need connection into the OBD system at all.

Does the current oil pressure sensor in the non-Boss vehicles read back a full value or is it just an on/off type sensor?

I'd like to see a plug & play type harness, but I don't think that'll be the case.

I could be wrong, but I was under the impression that the on/off style readout for oil pressure was the fault of the gauge, not the sensor. I thought the sensor was capable of reading 0-whatever psi, but after leaving the senor, the electrical signal was then dumbed down into an of/off style readout.

I could be totally wrong about this though.

For those gauges that's correct. For the "performance gauge" it will require many more inputs. It wouldn't necessarily have to be the connection to OBDII, but all that data would be available there. Like I've said before, the Aeroforce gauge I have in my GT500 will measure all of these inputs and more for $250.

Frankly, the gauge pack from Ford doesn't even look like it belongs in the place where they have it on the top of the dash. It looks after-market at best. I will still be looking for an A/C pod holder for an Aeroforce gauge, or if it's not visible to the left of the steering wheel, I might have to break down and go 'A' pillar.

That's the way it is on my GT500. To Berol's question, I think it's the signal. According to Aeroforce, to get oil pressure readings, you have to install a pressure sensor. Obviously there's some type of signal going to the stock on/off gauge, but may not provide an actaul reading no matter what gauge is used.

The "performance guage" actually is the easiest of all of the guages to hook up. It's only an Autometer D-PIC with a Ford Racing logo on it. It does NOT hook into the OBD system, all it needs is +, -. and a tap for the dashlights so that the display dims when you turn the lights on.

This is how I know:

By the way, I'll repeat what I have to say about the gauge:

OAC where is it getting the inputs? From the dash gauges (tach, speedo, etc?)

Here's a pic. It will display everything and more that the FRPP gauge pack will along with a shift light. Unfortunately with the rectangular a/c vents in the center console it would have to be in the vent on the left of the wheel, A pillar, or in a dash gauge pod just like the FRPP. I prefer the stealth of the A/C vent as my GT500 is a total sleeper. All the mods were made for performance and not cosmetics.

The GPS lap timer to the right of it is only in for track days so it's not direct wired and uses the 12v accessory port for power.

I like that Aeroforce gauge. If it will show knock retard for the 5.0 (their website indicates it will for the 4.6L) then it's on my list.

It doesn't. I doesn't need any inputs apart from power and the dashlight to dim the display at night.

It is basically longitudinal (front-back) and lateral (side-side) accelerometers and a calculator.

Basically, acceleration is the key. Acceleration will give you a "G" or "gee" reading, one "G" being 10m/s^2, Add a timer to this, sustain an acceleration over a peroid of time and you get a velocity. Sustain a velocity over time and you get distance.

So basically, what the meter does is when you put it into a mode, say, quarter mile time, it gives you a countdown/light tree and when it tells you "GO!" starts a stopwatch. It monitors the accelerometers, figures your speed out at any given point until it calculates that you've travelled 1/4 mile. Same with 0-60, 60-0, punch in your vehicle weight and it estimates the horespower to the ground.

Is it perfect? No. But it's pretty close.